Leaky oil pan drain plug..

I recently purchased a pre-owned 2013 911 4S Cab new car trade from a Local Land Rover dealership. Brought it home the first night, woke up to a puddle of oil on my garage floor. Took it back to the dealership, they said it needed a new drain plug washer/gasket, so they got one from a Porsche dealership across the highway from them and installed it. Brought it back home, it’s still leaking oil. The dealership did an oil change on the vehicle when they took it in on trade. My fear is they cracked the oil pan when they did it. I feel the dealership needs to make it right, one way or the other. Anyone else’s have any experience with this type of issue? Do I need to have the oil pan replaced?

Did YOU look at the drain plug to determine that is what's leaking ? An oil leak can obviously be coming from many areas . If the dealership can't handle a simple oil drain plug I would not trust them to do anything else . Assuming that is what is still leaking .

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Yes I did. Their tech walked me into their service area while the car was on a lift and showed me where the leak was. It was quite evident. I don’t trust the dealership one bit. However, they did agree to purchase a new oil pan and have it installed. On a positive note, I live a couple of miles away from a Porsche service center. I spoke with them about it and they agreed to take a look at it for me once the new pan is installed.

A word of caution , a shop not familiar with Porsche's has a tendency to apply WAY TOO much sealant to the pan . What happens is lots of squeeze out . That squeeze out on the outside is ugly but the squeeze out on the inside can kill an engine . The sealant " worms " break off and can clog the oil pickup screen . I would recommend you get the new pan in hand and have the Porsche shop install it . If the selling dealer won't allow that then I would have the Porsche shop inspect the install internally with a bore scope. Specifically looking for excess sealant . Also non Porsche shops have a tendency of not following torque specs for drain plugs and install them way too tight . Good luck

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Thanks for your insight. The new pan came with a gasket. I’m not a mechanic, and I hate to sound ignorant, but do you normally add sealant on top of using a gasket? When they installed the pan, they did mention that was a concern, but that the new pan came with a new gasket and that concern was alleviated.

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I am not aware of a pan gasket . Look at the link below and scroll down to " compatibility " . Notice that each model year has a note stating sealant is needed ? The pan has a flat mating surface and so does the engine block . You apply a thin coat of sealant on the sump plate and install . That is what seals the two mating surfaces. The only gasket is the aluminum ring for the drain plug . https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610703160.htm?pn=996-107-031-60-OEM

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Isn’t that link for a 996? I have a 991.

Aware this is an old thread but thought I put this up anyway. Make sure the old washer is not stuck to the pan, smear a little aluminum anti-seize on both sides of the new washer and the bottom of the flange on the plug and torque to 37 ft-lbs. This way most of the torque is used to deform the washer for a good seal and not overcome friction between the washer and bolt flange. Anti sieze does a much better job than oil for this.