Anyone in this group familiar with removing CDR30 radio? I have gotten to the point where you turn the 5mm hexkey locking nuts. Three seemed normal but one fell out and appears broken. The unit will move outward a little and I have been pushing the spring clip on the broken fastener position. Pulling as hard as I can it will not come out. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
I have the side panels off and have turned locking hex key bolts ¼ turn. Three turned the normal 90 degrees and one was broken. The pieces of the broken one came out and I can push the spring inward but the radio still only moves outward about ¼ inch
How much more can you see through the structure with the side panels off? Most radios I worked with have retractable holds, sometimes they are returned to park with special keys (Blaupunkt used to be that way). Assuming the CDR30 also has these holds and reading here it's possible those locking nuts control the hold and they failed? Just a guess. If that's what may have happened, you will need a plan that retracts the holds on both sides simultaneously to successfully remove it from the square metal casing. Some specially made metal tabs might work, universal radio key too might flatten the spring loaded locks Worse case might include surgery through the sides to neutralize the holds. If it were my ride and it got to that level of seriousness, if necessary, I'd sacrifice fly the radio to preserve the pristine nature of the interior with any approaches. New radios are cheap and easy to put in yourself compared to surround damage. Just my thoughts, good luck man.
We think alike. I would Sawzall the CDR unit at this point, if I could, rather than damage the interior.
I have been considering ways to, like you said, retract all four holds simultaneously. It seems to be the
next
step.
I recently bought a
Dynavin
Pro 8 as a replacement for the CDR30. It looked as if
Porsche
Classic was dragging their feet releasing modernized units like they did for the
Caymans
up to 2008 and I got tired of waiting.
Thanks for taking time to address my question
Look at it like a puzzle LC. What you learn in going through obstacles with finesse can be applied to every job. Use minimal force. When you get frustrated, take photos, retreat and re plan. Good luck.
I have a CDR-24, not a
CDR-30
, but I recently pulled it out to install an auxiliary Bluetooth module, and three of the four lockring hex key bolts didn't depress the spring clips that hold the head unit in the dash when I turned them 90 deg. I'm not sure what the exact failure mode was, but I could see that the spring clips weren't being pushed in. I ended up pushing each spring clip in with a small screwdriver and using the little available motion of the head unit to wedge them in while I moved to the
next
one.
Just a thought, may not exactly apply to your situation since it's a different head unit, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Great advice. I finally developed patience after working on cars for many years and it has saved me from a lot a frustration and money.
I am thinking this may be the case with mine too. There seems to be enough room to do that with my radio. Much like the technique for lock picking. I have some very small wedge shaped pieces of plastic that I thought I would try using to hold the spring clips in next week after it warms up again.
Everything installed and working perfectly. I wrote a review for the
Dynavin
website and pasted it below.
I searched for quite a while for a radio to replace the CDR30 in my
Cayman
R. The
Dynavin
Pro 8 checked all the boxes for me. If you’re searching too, I highly recommend the Pro 8 for your
Porsche
. As you can see from the photograph it matches the interior perfectly. I was able to upload the
Porsche
crest and logo as my startup screen which is a nice finishing touch. I’m able to use a USB drive to have all 90GB+ of my music collect with me at all times and not have to worry about charging an
iPod
or other MP3 player. I also recommend using the two USB port accessory with the Pro 8 which seamlessly replaces the 12V socket without modification.
The only thing that could make me any happier would be Bluetooth 4.0+LE as opposed the Bluetooth 3.0 and 2.1 + EDR supplied with the Pro 8. For most people this likely would not be an issue unless you want to connect a Bluetooth radar detector to an app running on the unit. I have a workaround.
Support from Dynvin has been great throughout the entire purchase, installation, and learning curve process.
