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YOUR RESEARCHSuggestions for Fixing Pebble Dings
Leading reported evidence
Use dr c titanium metallic
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I’ve used Dr C titanium metallic on my Pepper and it turned out pretty well…can’t tell until I’m really close.
Leading evidence: 'Use dr c titanium metallic' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill ‘crater’ as level as you can' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Use drcolorchip.com i've got the same sort of hood issue
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I've used Drcolorchip.com I've got the same sort of hood issue.
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Suggestion
Do not be in a hurry and also fill the ‘crater’ as level as you can with 3-4 dab applications.
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Suggestion
Call your nearest Porsche dealer and ask them who they recommend for body work.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi all
So I have a handful or so bug/pebble dings on the front bumper cover on my 2003 C4S. They aren't scratches but more like dents maybe 1/16 or 1/32 inch in size. They have damaged the surface though and upon close look one is able to see tiny pileups of surface finish. They can hardly be seen but I KNOW they are there.
I'm asking for ideas on how to fix this. I have the touch up paint, Arctic Silver Metallic I believe it is, but I'm afraid to do anything with it for fear of making the situation worse.
I'd appreciate suggestions.
Thanks
Rick
Call your nearest Porsche dealer and ask them who they recommend for body work. I would just go to the same shop that Porsche uses because paint and body work is easy, easy, easy to mess up as a first timer.
Sure, I know that. But the point is this is a continuous or repetitive problem. I can't be going into a body shop once a year, or more. I'm looking for ideas on DIY for this problem. These are really tiny little dings. I'll take a pic and post.
I've used Drcolorchip.com I've got the same sort of hood issue. The Dr. Color Chip process has some great applicators that won't leave it looking like you did a DIY. And if you don't like your first pass at a touch-up, it comes with a solvent to delete and start over. I did that a couple times before I got it so it didn't look like I did it.
OP - You can do this. Improve your how-to knowledge by watching AmmoNYC videos that Larry Kosilla puts out. The Dr Colorchip tutorials are ok, but don’t really get you through site prep. Practice on one least visible spot until you get your technique right. Metallic touch ups are a little more difficult to get right for scratches. But, chips and small dings are fairly simple. Do not be in a hurry and also fill the ‘crater’ as level as you can with 3-4 dab applications. I’ve used Dr C titanium metallic on my Pepper and it turned out pretty well…can’t tell until I’m really close.
I bought a 'Painting Pen' that was recommended in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...endations.html
https://www.amazon.com/KINGART-920-Fine-Painting-Pen-5MM/dp/B07F6M1XBB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=22WDYMN39WD3Z&keywords=Loew-Cornell%2BFine%2BLine%2BPainting%2BPen&qid=1681258769&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=loew-cornell%2Bfine%2Bline%2Bpainting%2Bpen%2Carts-crafts%2C321&sr=1-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTkwT0FUU0tLQVFUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjA4MzI0MjkwTE1XNUg1U0ZFWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE0NDc0OUpXSFZVQjdKTVFJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/KINGART-920-Fine-Painting-Pen-5MM/dp/B07F6M1XBB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=22WDYMN39WD3Z&keywords=Loew-Cornell%2BFine%2BLine%2BPainting%2BPen&qid=1681258769&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=loew-cornell%2Bfine%2Bline%2Bpainting%2Bpen%2Carts-crafts%2C321&sr=1-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTkwT0FUU0tLQVFUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjA4MzI0MjkwTE1XNUg1U0ZFWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE0NDc0OUpXSFZVQjdKTVFJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Thank you SoCal. I watched the very informative YouTube and this might be just what I'm looking for. So I ordered the gizmo from Amazon, and we'll see how I do with it.
Thanks again
Rick
Thanks for this. I like this for the long term solution. There are some local shops who say they can do this. It seems so far that I really need only the bumper cover done as there are no hits anywhere else. So far.
Thanks Optman
Rick
I have had some good success on single stage paint with the following:
Langka | Home
Yours is likely 2 stage base clear. This stuff does get rid of the blob.
I've also touched up, wet sanded with up to 3000 grit and did a buff with great results. Take some pics of the area for some recommendations.
I really like the Dr. ColorChip process. Simple way to get a fool-proof repair.
If there are enough chips, just respray the bumper. If not, wait.
I have a local shop that will respray the bumper for $500 and it looks very reasonable. In a few years when more chips happen, have it done again.
It's cheaper than PPF and here in the heat of Florida PPF does not last long anyway. It actually will bind to the paint and must be sanded off if left on too long.
Be aware, you can't PPF until the paint cures, which is at least 30 days. Chip repair probably doesn't count.
If it's just a few chips and you are not comfortable with DIY, contact your local PCNA chapter and ask who does paint correction.
I've seen videos of chip repair where you apply several very light coats of the paint to avoid a reverse dimple, then sand and polish it flat. It should also be clear coated. The result is quite amazing.
I have Dr. Colorchip for all of my cars, and I like it.
Yes, the pink liquid that comes with the kit, which is the final smoother, is just a solvent that dissolves their paint. So if you don't like it, use the solvent until it's gone.
One interesting issue that I've found, is that when initially applying, it tends to look much more matte finish than the surrounding paint. So at first I'm a little disappointed. But after a day or so when it has time to fully cure, the paint is more glossy and blends in much better. So for now, I fill the chips and get it as flat and smooth as possible, but I try not to obsess over a full invisible blend. Usually I'm much more impressed when I come back to look at it a few days later.
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