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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHair-condition blowing hot air
Leading reported evidence
Use kinds of gases
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have a TIF leak detector that I have had for 30 years, it still has the original batteries ( I take them out after every use and place them in the specific holder in the case)...I use for all kinds of gases, it will test for any kinds of freon, CFC,HCFC, HFC,HFO, halogen, Carbon Dioxide, even Nitrous Oxide, it is a wide spectrum leak detector...not very expensive either..
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Suggestion
I always check/look at the condensers first when testing for Freon leaks...They are out front and usually get hit by a sharp edge of a small rock that causes a leak...
Leading evidence: 'Use kinds of gases' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /look at the condensers first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I always check/look at the condensers first when testing for Freon leaks...They are out front and usually get hit by a sharp edge of a small rock that causes a leak...
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Suggestion · Original poster
mechanic said they have to take all the inside panel to check all the AC line but he said the compressor are okay.
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Suggestion
Then have him check the entire AC system with a UV light to find the leak.
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Check /look at the condensers first
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
I always check/look at the condensers first when testing for Freon leaks...They are out front and usually get hit by a sharp edge of a small rock that causes a leak...
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have a TIF leak detector that I have had for 30 years, it still has the original batteries ( I take them out after every use and place them in the specific holder in the case)...I use for all kinds of gases, it will test for any kinds of freon, CFC,HCFC, HFC,HFO, halogen, Carbon Dioxide, even Nitrous Oxide, it is a wide spectrum leak detector...not very expensive either..
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T174436Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
hi guys i need help to save a little bit of labor to fix it. actually local mechanic in my area recharge my AC but only takes a week and now blowing hot air again any advise what is wrong where i can find the problem any suggestion?TIA....
If you are losing refrigerant in a weeks time you have a big leak . You need to find the leak and repair . There are UV dyes that you add to the system . Then with a black light you start looking for the leaks that show up with the dye . What did the local mechanic say when he added the refrigerant ?
You have a freon leak. Take it back to the "local mechanic" and have him add UV dye to a recharge of freon. Then have him check the entire AC system with a UV light to find the leak.
Honestly, find a better mechanic. Many of the AC lines run under the car. It is conceivable that the leak is in an inaccessible area like the evaporator, but that is the last place to check. As other have said, putting dye in the system with a charge will help identify it. Most AC shops will also first use a freon sniffer that can also help diagnose the issue. At this point, you know the AC works, but you have a leak. A pretty significant leak too since it loses the charge in a week. I had an 80's mustang that would lose about half a pound a year. I used to top it up annually and it blew ice cold for the season. Leaking in a week is pretty significant.
you don't have to take anything apart.
there are only few places the freon can leak from.
adding a UV dye, as others suggested, is the way to go. it will tell you exactly where your leak is coming from.
here are the options.
1. AC compressor O-rings - the day will show on the compressor in the engine bay.
2. AC expansion valve O-rings - located at the frank passenger side of the firewall.
3. AC receiver dyer O- rings - located at the frank driver side of the firewall.
4. AC condenser - there are 2, located behind each radiator (you will need to get the bumper off to get to it).
there are also other junctions in the system you can look at, but I would start here. the list is organized by the level of difficulty to get to.
another option, which will be very easy to detect using the dye, is a leaking evaporator. the evaporator is located inside the AC air distribution box under the dashboard.
in this case, you will find the dye glowing in the puddle of condensed humidity under your car, on the passenger side.
do you have any funky smell coming out of the AC vents?
anyway, here is a link to the AC lines diagram, but you must start with a UV dye if you want to get it resolved.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25
good luck, and let us know what you found.
I always check/look at the condensers first when testing for Freon leaks...They are out front and usually get hit by a sharp edge of a small rock that causes a leak...
A freon sniffer or even dye will be very useful in testing for leaks, but if you see an oily/wet spot on one of the condensers, there is your leak....
I have a TIF leak detector that I have had for 30 years, it still has the original batteries ( I take them out after every use and place them in the specific holder in the case)...I use for all kinds of gases, it will test for any kinds of freon, CFC,HCFC, HFC,HFO, halogen, Carbon Dioxide, even Nitrous Oxide, it is a wide spectrum leak detector...not very expensive either..
Most common leaks are evaporator core or front condenser(s).
Best procedure is use electronic refrigerant sniffer, starting at compressor (clutch area, body seals, line connections), drier connections, condenser connections and coils, TEV and its connections when visible,
vents and evap condensation drain. Most experienced AC techs have a sniffer and most Porsche techs (aftermarket and dealerships) now the connection points.
Recharge system, and sniff leaks about 1.5 hours.
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