Ignition key hard to turn when cold?

Now that the weather is starting to get cold in Toronto (32 F last night), I'm noticing an issue that started last fall/winter: When it gets cold out and the car's been sitting outside, the ignition gets really hard to turn. The colder it is, the harder it is to turn. Is this a sign of needing a new ignition switch or do I just need to lubricate it? Anyone else have this issue? ps. snow tires/wheels go on soon for the season!

Shoot some penetrating oil into it, or WD40 shouldn't hurt it too much. Usually when someone says the key it getting hard to turn it means the little plastic piece broke off in the switch part and it needs to be replaced. From your description it sounds like it maybe the steering wheel lock mechanism binding due to the cold. Does it help to wiggle the steering wheel when you turn the key?

dont know if I would squirt stuff in the lock, but IF thats what you do, squirt it on the key (away from the electronics) and insert the key several times... a drop will work, so a huge spray will just cause issues. - Then wipe the key off (think of it as "cleaning the key) Also the switch itself is cheap (way under $50 IIRC) and can be changed out very easy. Do a search there have been many swapped out...... GL

hmmmm I would buy the $30 ignition switch just in case.... My ignition went bad on the track, I knew it was going, luckily I had the part with me... it would of been a $500 tow home. 15 min of R&R and I was rockin!

I got my replacment switch for less than $20 on Ebay. Also, be careful using WD40. It is not a lubricant. In the short term it frees up rusted and corroded parts, but it actually removee the oil/lubricant. Use a true lock lubricant if you are going to try this.

+1 I was advised by my locksmith not to use the stuff in car locks. A couple of techs have also told me not to use it for anything except cleaning or dispersing water.

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I am reviving this thread because I have the same issue. It feels as though whatever lube is in the lock cylinder has "frozen". Also, when I turn the car off, it takes 10 second or so for the mechanicals to "click inside", and for the idiot bell to turn off once I remove the key. This only happens when the car is cold. Were you able to lube the cylinder or did you have to replace the switch or the entire ignition lock mechanism? Thanks Stefan

Many say do not shoot anything into the Ign lockset. I had that problem and I used a PTFE & graphite lock lube successfully. I bought it at a locksmith store near me. I think my problem was the tumblers or the steering wheel lock mechanism. Not the $30, $20, $10, I got mine behind the Italian deli for a cannoli plastic switch part.

The switches are flaky, and the problems show up in many different ways. As stated here, new switches can be bought almost anywhere, I got mine from a VW dealer. I heard but have not verified that if you do go to Porsche they will sell you a whole new assembly, including like the steering wheel lock or some such thing. Very expensive *but* a different design that wont fail. Us cheap b@stards though would rather spend $30 and 30 minutes every five years instead of $500? once to fix the problem for good. YMMV

I never put oil in Locks makes pin stick where they shouldn't etc, Use graphite.

You have to becareful to use a liquid lube in a dry lubed lock and a dry lube in a liquid lubed lock. That will kill a lock. Ie. Kwickset locks use a liquid lube. You put graphite in there and the lock will gum up. Schlage on the other hand uses graphite. You squirt a liquid lube in there you will gum it up. NEVER use WD40 in a lock. The lock will dry out the lock and it will fail in time.

I have already replaced the electrical switch with no result. The question now is: Can I do more harm if I put lube in the lock? If I eventually have to replace the mechanism with a new one, will my lubing the lock now make that process even more expensive? If lube can be put in, where do I apply it? The key slides in and out without any problems. Thanks Stefan

If you use a liquid lube (LPS1 is great for this. Can be found at most local hardware stores). Put a little on the key. Insert the key. DO NOT TURN THE KEY. Remove the key and wipe it off. Repeat the insert and wiping process a good 4-5 times. This will help remove any dirt. Then you can start turning it. A little lube goes a long way. Good luck.

Is there a way to wire up a push start mechanism? And possibly 2 switches for aux power and secondary power and disable the steering lock completely? I really hate having to worry if my key is going to work, get stuck or not start because of some switch/tumblar/immobilizer

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+1 on using Graphite. Stick the end of the key into the slot to open it up, and spray the graphite into the lock. Take your key and push it in and out a dozen times or so, until you feel it moving really easily. Then take the pressure off of the switch with the steering wheel, and turn the key lightly from side to side. A dozen of those should work it just fine. If it doesn't, get a new switch. larry

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I had the exact symptoms you describe. I used this stuff... http://www.mil-comm.com/index.php?It...tent&task=view My approach was to spray one quick burst into the ignition, then this to try to remove any dirt or gunk that had acumulated: Spray a small amount of the stuff on the key. Put the key in the ignition and turn it several times, trying to change the angle slightly each time. Pull the key out and wipe the gunk off. Repeat until the key comes out clean (spraying the lubricant on the key only once every few iterations, not into the ignition). Seems to be working just fine with smooth operation and no more waiting to see if the bell/radio/lights would go off in the cold.

I find it hard to go out in the cold. When I got the whole new igniton switch and colum it was stiff. I don't think the system was made to be an easy turn of the key.

if its simply dirty, why does this seem to happen only when its dirty?

I'd use dry silicone rather than graphite, since graphite is electrically conductive. I don't think the odds of enough graphite making it into the electrical portion of the switch are very high, but it's still a conductor being introduced into an electrical component, which isn't a great idea. Graphite is not a great conductor, so much of the electricity that goes into it gets converted to heat. I had a great time as a kid making lightbulbs with solid graphite filaments (narrow pencil lead), but they tended to flame out in the presence of oxygen...

Is it possible that what you're actually fighting is the steering lock mechanism, which IS harder to work with when it's cold? While my 996 lives at 70 degrees most of the time, I have had it up in the mountains in below-freezing temps for extended periods, and I did not notice an issue with the locks. This was back before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch, so all of the parts were approx. 13 years old at the time...

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I have the same issues as OP! what parts do I need to replace?

If you have a jeweler's screwdriver, you could try temporarily removing the electrical part of the ignition switch (under the dash). If the difficulty persists, you know the issue is with the mechanical parts. If the key turns easily when the electrical portion of the switch is removed, you know you need only replace that part.

Same issue - went to move my car this morning at -16C and had to turn the key hard enough I was afraid it would bend or break. It eventually moved and started and once in the garage and warmed up there was no issue. My ignition switch is a few months old and works just fine when warm so I'm thinking it is either the steering wheel lock part of the ignition pistol or the key tumblers. Has anyone narrowed down this problem and what lube (graphite, etc.) to use? Thanks in advance.

I had this on my 996. I tried lube. I tried the electrical connector. Neither worked. The dignity in lock was sticking and there is no way to live that. It is a sealed internal piece. Has to replace the whole lock mechanism. Symptoms were when cold hard to turn and then would not shut off the car right away when I turned the key off. Pelican had a write up I followed. Was straight forward.

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Argh, now my locks are demanding dignity? Unacceptable!!! I noticed that after I take the key out of the ignition it takes a good 5-10 seconds until I can hear the spring loaded steering wheel lock portion kick out. Since that is purely mechanical I think I'll try to spray some lube in there: around where the ignition pistol meets the steering column. Worse case I can take the whole ignition assembly out as I've had it out before and replace parts. Thanks

So to revisit this with a little more experience. My 2003C2 ignition switch finally failed so I replaced it with the Audi part number. Everything worked correctly again. My “new” 2004tt key started to stick in the lock. I put 3 in 1 oil onto the key and did the multiple insert wipe clean reapply method to free it up. That worked fine. Now the key slides in and out smoothly and the wheel lock snaps home. Before I had to gently tap the metal face of the lock with the key to get it to snap home. Then I started to get “Key in ignition” warning after removing that now slippery key. I know from dissecting the 03 lock that there is a pin in the center of the electrical part that the key pushes in to wake the car up. I assumed that the pin got oil that attracted dirt making it stick. So before replacing the ignition switch this time, I put one of the red plastic straws that come with penetrating oil on my MAF cleaner, pushed it into the switch against the pin and gave it a quick shot. For the last 6 months is working again. I also keep a spare electric part with the tools to replace it in the frunk just in case. My take way is the tumblers/steering wheel lock like lube. The plastic ignition switch not so much.

Not even sure what I meant to type with dignity. Anyway. All the lube in the world is not going to work. The click you hear after 5-10 seconds is the locking pin popping back out when you remove the key. It is located where the black circle is. I guess you could try to pull the thing and lube that piston, but since I had to remove it I just replaced it just for clarification, the plastic piece that causes all the electrical issue you get in on the top right. On the top left is where the cylinder/tumbler goes where you put the key in. You have to transfer it when you replace the unit. Close up looks like this:

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How did you make out with this? I'm a fairly new 996 owner and have been having trouble recently, trying to start the car. The guy just won't move, especially in the cold. It might take 4-5 minutes until I can finally get it to turn. Something doesn't feel right. What would you suggest that I replace? Thanks

Dgjks6, That unit looks very dirty and has some surface corrosion. Was it on the shelf for awhile or is that the way it looked when you removed it?

It was in the tool box in the garage for a while. I just threw it out a few weeks ago.The updated part has a non removal electrical switch IIRC also

I had the the same issue past days. it was early morning time when i was about to leave for my office in Al Satwa i already had short time and then this ignition stuck and wont let my car to start. well somehow i managed to start the car and reached the office. i had to call Dubai locksmith to resolve this issue as i did not know that it was just rusty and nothing else. :\

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I am trying to resolve my similar issue. I read all the threads, but I am still unclear on the steering lock mechanism. Where is it located? I live in an area where it is cold from late Oct-April. I don't drive the car in the winter, but we had a few stray warm days recently after a good rain to wash the salt off the roads, so I went and took her out of storage. I attribute the key issue to the cold, as it didn't happen when I bought the car last year when it was warm. If I remove the key when its cold, I usually can't reinsert the key right away, it is blocked. After about 1-2 minutes I hear the 'click', and then after still another 20 seconds or so I can then put the key back in. I replaced the electrical part on the end of the ignition, with no change. I am considering having the ignition itself replaced, but I want to understand why this is happening before paying to have that done. I replaced the electrical part myself, but I would probably have the ignition mechanism done. The dealer gets $915, and the indy Porsche shop gets $775. It looks like the later model Porsche part is about $250, so I figure they get a ~$500-600 install fee. My fear is that if I have it done, I am not convinced it will solve the problem. When I remove the key and the cylinder is blocked, the steering wheel is not locked, I can turn it fully. The after the click I can then get it to lock. Could this be a key tumbler issue? Or is this in the ignition mechanism? Or is there a cable or some sort of additional part that works with the steering wheel lock? I saw the pic in dgjks6's post, but is that pin the steering wheel lock? Also, I did try using 3 in 1 PTFE, using the liquid on key, plunge it 5 times, wipe, reapply, repeat. This didn't change anything. I am considering a blast of contact cleaner in the ignition mechanism to see if that might help. I figure I could use masking tape and setup a cover so as not to damage the dash or plastics. Anyone try this? I saw someone used MAF with some degree of success.

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I had the same issue, key was stiff. Eventually, the ignition failed when I was 50 miles from home and I couldn't start my car. I got lucky and was able to use my key to break the ignition and the column lock opened, but I bet yours isn't too far behind. I replaced the ignition mechanism and it fixes the problem. I would just get it done. I replaced it myself and it is actually pretty easy. You will be working in a tight space though...

Thanks for the input Cully. I figure I will have to replace it, but this morning I thought if i was going to replace it anyway, I would give one last thing a try. I bought a can of CRC QD electronic cleaner, and a little tube of dry graphite powder. I had hoped to get the super fine graphite, but both autozone and advance were out of it, so I bought it at Lowes. I got the shopvac out, and put the smallest end on the hose, and I then taped off most of the opening down to about the size of a dime. I then put the spray tube into the nozzle of the contact cleaner, and turned on the shopvac. I held the vacuum tube right at the keyhole. I sprayed a good shot of the cleaner into the lock while immediately sucking it out with the shop vac placed at the key opening. I couldn't believe the large black chunks of crud that came out of the lock that I could see getting sucked into the vacuum. I figure all of the little bits of metal from the key wearing down were in there as well. The nice thing about this contact cleaner is it doesn't spray out too powerfully, plus it is meant for electronics and plastics. The MAF and brake cleaner have acetone in them, which could harm the ignitions guts, plus with the crazy powerful stream those products shoot out, it would be hard to prevent it from back-splashing out onto your leather or dash, where it most likely would do bad things. I did the contact cleaner spray and vac thing about 10 times. I would start with the end of the red spray tube right at the very opening of the keyhole and started spraying, and then pushed the tube into the lock as far as it would go while continuing to spray, with constant vacuum right at the keyhole opening, trying to get in in higher and lower on each try. I used full 2-3 second sprays. I then put the key in a few times, and turned it, and then redid the spray and vac another 3 or 4 times. I waited a few mins for the cleaner to fully evaporate, and I then shot a few squeezes of the graphite powder into the lock. I worked the key in and out a bunch of times, and then turned the key a few times. It now turns freely, and amazingly as soon as I remove the key I get the "clunk", which had taken a couple of minutes to happen previously. I put the key in and turned it, and removed it probably 30 times, partly to get the graphite worked in, and partly due to the excitement of the mechanism seeming to function properly. I will have to see if it keeps working well, but for now it seems to be good to go. One other note, it is about 40 degrees in my garage right now, and the sticking issue was much more pronounced in the colder weather. With the procedure I did, even in the cold, it is turning freely. It is nice that the remote key FOB now locks the doors. I have had to lock the doors with the key for some time now, as the sticky key cylinder didn't allow the remote lock to work. And finally, be safe if you use a flammable spray, and suck the vapors through a shopvac. I put the shop vac motor outside as far away from me as I could get it.

Thanks for the post, and I think this may be the perfect answer to fixing the "cold stuck" ignition switch. My ignition lock felt like it was hitting something when I tried turning the key. It was so tight I was concerned I might damage the key or the lock. I sprayed the CRC a few times and the key finally moved. I used a bulb syringe with a red plastic spray tube taped to the end (off a can of brake cleaner) to try to suck out the excess fluid. The CRC evaporates very quickly, so there is no residue. After several minutes of giving short sprays, removing the excess and dirt, and letting it dry, the key turned very easily. I used maybe an ounce of the CRC. After letting it sit ten minutes to make sure the CRC had dried, I used some powdered graphite in the lock. Now the switch works like new. I hear the "click" when I take the key out, and the warned bell stops immediately. After I did this, I found a tech forum in Excellence (May, 2010, issue 182) by Tony Callas and Tom Prine. They suggest spraying ignitions with a cleaner that contains the dry film lubricant Poytetraflouroethylene (PTFE) twice a year. The cleaner evaporates, leaving the PTFE to lubricate the ignition lock. They said to use this rather than graphite.

Old thread I know, but so happy to find it as my 996 has these symptoms and need to reference it for my repair... Plus - who knows if others are struggling a bit with their cars after a winter hibernation?? vetfever