Newbie 2002 996.2 C2 cab-Some advice for first time owner please.

Greetings all, I introduced myself in the newbie page and have gone through the sticky's on here but couldn't see the answers I need so reposting here. So as to issues - oil leaking from drivers side cam cover... I have a workshop and tools- I know the cam lock tool is needed but is it possible to get the cover off in situ? Lots and lots of bolts to come off I can see. I do know the 996.2 did away with the spark plug tubes but is it possible that a leak can develop from this area still? Looks like there also could be a slight RMS leak but unsure due to the cam cover leak. It would be a very minor leak if it is. This is running the original IMS as far as I know. Oil was analysed and came back good so no issue right now. Brake pedal a bit spongey- recent pads and discs- bleeding might remedy that. I changed the battery today and right in that area found what seems to be a random clear tube of vacuum hose that goes somewhere on the drivers side with a small black nipple at the loose end- but can see nothing to plug it into! Does not appear to be for the washers as they work fine. I scanned for codes- these came up, all seem to be related to alarm, immobiliser and central locking- except for the radio. Everything works as far as I can tell, including the radio. The car feels dry under the passenger seat too, although may have gotten wet before my ownership for all I know. I have cleared the codes but they come straight back. Picture of codes attached below. Ragtop works but when going back up the front lock goes into place but then rather than the windows coming back up it just cycles the plastic lock lever at the front of the roof in and out. I can let go of the button and press it again and the windows go up. Is that how it is supposed to work? Attachments​

welcome oil leaks, depends if it's a drip or a leak, also to note the cork caskets seals only have a certain life and over time they degrade brake pedal feel, try bleeding the system, otherwise a new master cylinder can solve the spongy feel issue as for that battery vent tube. Not required on most modern batteries that are sealed and dont need a vent, hence there's nowhere obvious for it to go.

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Thanks for your reply. Totally virgin territory for me. I am going to bleed the brakes, but I am going to buy a pressure vessel since that seems to be the way to go with the dual bleed nipples at the top of the caliper. I thought cork gaskets went out with the Beetle, I've only seen youtube videos where they are using silicon not gaskets. Are there rubber ones you can get or just the cork? Never heard of a battery vent tube before either. Do you know if I can take the cam cover off while in situ? I'd hate it to be an engine out...daunting. The cam cover is daunting enough from what I can see - or rather not see to get to, up there. It is dripping, not a lot but still. First going to degrease it all and see if I can identify the exact location- or locations. Do you know if the roof as I described is functioning properly? Also, what do you think of the error codes?

There are no separate spark plug tubes on the 3.6 as there is in the 3.4 (and which occasionally leak). The tubes are integral to the tappet carriers and generally speaking I don't think they or the valve covers are a common leak source unless the f***up fairies have been in there. I bought my 3.6 with considerable oil leaks seemingly everywhere and a final service receipt from the PO which diagnosed valve cover leaks, engine removal required. Turned out there is an oil breather pipe which snakes across from the front of bank 2 to the AOS unit at the back of Bank1. Mine had rubbed through near the #5 plenum tube and also on the coolant sensor, hence depositing oil vapour all over both sides of the engine making it look like bad valve cover leaks. I changed the pipe and all of that was resolved. Easy fix if you're lucky. https://www.design911.co.uk/p/porsche-996-oil-separator-vent-line-99610714759/

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Cheers for all that Uber. Hopefully I don't have that- looks only to be on the drivers side. I have now found a video that shows two guys taking it off in situ- but it is a very haphazard 'how to' and left me frustrated and puzzled. Just as a ball park what was the cost of the work?

Trust me, you'd rather it be that than the valve cover. First step is to degrease thoroughly and then drive a bit and observe where the fresh oil is coming from. In my case it was clearly coming down from further up rather than the covers themselves. Mine rubbed through on both sides, on the drivers side where it went between the inlet pipes, so you might be lucky. Cost was the price of the part plus a couple of hours of my time working out how to get it in. Just had to remove airbox, throttle body, inlet plenum I think, which is basically the bare minimum for doing anything around the top of the motor.

Thanks Uber, I will be degreasing today and then keeping a keen eye - and yes, that pipe would be the better option by far. If it comes to an engine out I think I would have to get the experts on it. I'd obviously have the RMS, clutch and IMS changed, but I really don't want to have that expense , especially so early on.

If you do have a minor oil from the RMS, I wouldn't worry too much. Get it inspected and possibly replaced when the clutch is next done (or at least the gearbox is out). So long as it's not major or affecting clutch performance, it's not a big deal. Regarding the spongey brakes - definitely give it a go bleeding at home, but on my C4S, I needed to take it to my local specialist to replace the fluid and bleed as it turned out all the air was in the ABS control unit. It took them three cycles activating the ABS bleed procedure before a big burp of air came out! Pedal was much better after that.

Don't change your IMS. Next time you have the gearbox off for clutch change, etc. then inspect the IMS and ping the outer dust shield off the bearing. This then allows the engine oil to lubricate it, reducing any wear or seizing that could occur.

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Thanks Alex, Can you check/spin the IMS without pulling it out of the housing?

Yes. Whilst the gearbox is off you gave access to the cover plate. Lock the engine, remove the cover plate and the bearing is there pressed in the shaft with the centre spigot pressed in the bearing. The centre spigot can be turned/spun in the shaft. Whilst there, ping the dust sheild off to let oil lubricate it in the futre. All recommended advice from Hartech. Read a thread I did: https://911uk.com/threads/checking-the-ims-bearing-and-removing-the-outer-seal.81765/