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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2002 996 Fixed Spoiler Installation
Leading reported evidence
Install spoiler
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Leading evidence: 'Install spoiler' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install spoiler' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Swapped the thick A12 for the thin A5 and bam all fixed.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So a few weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car.
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Suggestion · Original poster
On the metal part about 1/2 way down running horizontal are metal clips that hold on the accordian rubber peice these just pop off.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also used 4 metric bolts that would screw into the front welded on nuts to attach my fixed spoiler, instead of drilling out the factory welded on nuts.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T212127Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So a few weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car. Note I did not hit him, he hit me. Since the front fender and door were going to be replaced, I picked up a rear spoiler and had them paint it at the same time.
This weekend I installed my spoiler. I have a couple of books and both of them state remove existing spoiler. I had to work my way through it. I am sure somewhere someone has beeter instructions than I found, and I am sure there is a better way to do it than I did. However, I did get the spoiler on.
Of note this is on a 2002 996 Carrera.
I never read it anywhere, but I needed to extend my spoiler to pull out the pin in pic 3, then when the hex bolts and the rubber grommet in the center were removed in pic 2, and the four bolts at the front of the spoiler. On the metal part about 1/2 way down running horizontal are metal clips that hold on the accordian rubber peice these just pop off. After removing those, I was able to remove the spoiler. I did not need to remove the three bolts in the center of pic 2 since they held on the motor. I did have the wiring harness to the 3rd brake light on the spoiler it self and the 2 relays at the motor to deal with. I just cut them.
The hardware that came with mine was SAE and I am sure they were not stronger that grade 5. I could do the stress analysis to verify the installation, however I am sure it is strong enough. I did not need to drill any holes in the car just the spoiler. I did need to dremel places on the spoiler to insure a flush fit. I also used 4 metric bolts that would screw into the front welded on nuts to attach my fixed spoiler, instead of drilling out the factory welded on nuts.
With the relays out of the car, and wires cut, I have two issues. First my 3rd brake light does not work. I went through the Beck Arnley book and tracked down part of that issue - it seems there is a slight error in the wiring diagrams since for the 2002 they don't match up. I have a solution cross referencing the 2004 diagrams, but I want to cross reference the 1999s before I try it. Then I need to install the jumper for the wing not deployed light.
All and all I am very happy with the install.
Your car needs a rear spoiler to complement the aero bits you already have on
P.S. Already have a front lip, right?
Looks VERY, VERY nice.....but I am biased
Also curious who makes the wing, looks like the Techart I have on mine
rightrearquarterangle.jpg
Well thanks for all the compliments!
Being the cheap AR engineer that I am, I went through the Beck Arnley Manual and figured out which wires to splice together.
So attached is the wiring diagram I followed. I got the first A2-A5 splice from someone here and verified it; I came up with the A6.
Here is how I did it, when I removed the pop up spoiler I cut the wiring harness part that awached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler. I wish I would have given myself a little more room to work with the wires were I cut it. This made my 3rd brake light inop as well as receiving the spoiler not deployed warning and light. The spoiler I installed did not have a light.
So where I cut the wires on the spoiler wiring harness, I found the corresponding wires to the diagram and spliced them. I spliced the Grey/Brown (Spoiler warning) to the Brown to the Brown/Orange (Third Brake Light) right were I cut the wires to remove the factory spoiler. My third brake light works as well as disabling the spoiler warning and light.
If my spoiler had a light, I could have hooked up the original brake light wires to it, and then instead of splicing the Brown/Orange you would splice the Brown/Black.
or you could do what i did and simply buy the correct aero wiring harness pigtail from the dealer! That way you can sell the motorized portion or swap them back without issue.
I twisted together A2, A5, and A6. Crossing my fingers it works. Thanks for the diagram. This is the best explanation I could find. My Bentley manual shows a different diagram.
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I followed the diagram and although the 3rd brake light works like a charm the "wing malfunction" warning appears on my cluster almost immediately on start up or a minute or two after driving, and then after i pull the "ok" handle the warning bulb remains illuminated for the wing. Though instead of cutting the entire harness up at the deck lid I cut the wires close to the plug pictured on post #19 and tucked the 3 cut spoiler side wires up in the harness and then tied the brown, brown orange and grey brown wires together close to the plug.
My question is as jrrhdmust mentioned he cut the entire harness
"that attached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler". So were the wires A1 A3 and A4 also cut then and must I cut those as well to eliminate the warnings for wing malfunction I am getting?
Thanks in advance.
btw, I have a 2002 c4s and put on a misha style gt2m wing without 3rd brake light in it.
Well I figured out what went wrong!!
Guy holding up wires in post #19 is holding up brown wire A12 not A5!! I didnt count pins when I was doing the job and would have caught the other thin brown wire hiding in the harness. Swapped the thick A12 for the thin A5 and bam all fixed.
Do not go off post #19 guys or you will encounter same problem as I did. At least we know he isn't color blind.
I tried the above solution on my 996.2 to no avail. After reading a couple other boards I tried simply depressing the micro switch and taping it down. That eliminated the light all together. Ran diagnostics and no codes present. Not sure if continuously depressing the micro switch will do any damage. For peace of mind I will have this coded out the next time its in the shop.
Regarding the splicing/ twisting together of 2, 5, and 6, forgive my ignorance, but will all 6 cut ends of the three wires be twisted together, or only 3 cut ends, and which cut ends if so? I�m doing a ducktail on my �99 C2 if that makes a difference.
thanks in advance!
Where is the micro switch that you taped down?
I don�t love the idea of tape to solve a problem, but it also sounds really simple and easily reversible. 🙂
I have a no-light, fixed duck tail that causes a beep and a warning light anytime I get over 72mph.
I�m hanging onto the original equipment and really don�t want to cut original wiring. I like my mods
to be non-permanent, if possible.
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