Emergency Frunk Problem -- Battery to footwell fuse panel not working

I have a 2008 Boxster S. It sat for a few days and was completely dead. At first, I replaced the battery with a new one, but it has some kind of electrical draw that deadens the battery within a few days. When the battery gets low, it sets off the alarm, lowers the windows, and raises the spoiler. To avoid this problem, I have been closing the car with the frunk open, locking the car with the key, and then disconnecting the battery before closing the frunk. To reopen the car, I use the key in the door, then use a 1000A lithium -ion booster pack with the footwell positive terminal and the door hinge to power the car up enough to use the key to unlock the frunk, reconnect the battery , and start the car. I've done this a dozen times now. The current problem is, I parked in a place that it absolutely cannot be left overnight and now the trick isn't working. I attach the booster and a relay clicks but I can't open the frunk with either the key or the door sill switch. I've tried this with the booster and with jumper cables attached to my truck, same result. I realize this isn't normal or ideal, but I had a bad injury a few weeks ago that prevents me from doing much physically, so was waiting until the arm heals a bit to dig into the issue. It will be tremendously hard for me to get to the emergency release in the wheel well. Additionally, the window doesn't come down a 1/2 inch like it normally would when power is attached and the door is open. There is definitely some juice making it into the car though, because you can hear the key lock actuate when the key is inserted into the ignition. The red light on the key flashes too, so it does have battery . I can go out there tonight and explain to the street sweeper at midnight why I can't move it and probably avoid getting towed for now, but I absolutely need to figure out the problem. Any ideas of what to do next ?

I found the little thing on the panel doesn't not work well for me either. I found using a jumper cable set( or boost box) in this manner was better. Clamp the ground to the door latch ( any solid ground will work. Press a phillips screwdriver down the center of the center console cigarette lighter contacting the center pole. Hold it tight there and clamp the positive to the screwdriver shaft. with this completed you should have enough power now to pop the frunk latch. If you find it hard not to touch the sides of the lighter port you could wrap the shaft with electrical tape first to prevent an accidental pop.

My guess is that you have water under the drivers seat and have a faulty Rear Body Control Module. The alarm and the spoiler are controlled by that module. The convertible top also is (which can command the windows to go down). If something is shorting out under your seat, it could explain both the current draw and the weird behavior. Stick your hand under your seat and see if you feel moisture. If you have water down there, you are going to need to dry things out. Hopefully you can bring that module back to life. In a 987.2 (2009-2012), the Rear body control module gets power from fuses A3, A6 and A7. You will need to figure out which fuses power that module in a 2008. You can try to see if you are drawing current across those (or pull them to stop the current draw). You can then plug in a Ctek charger into the cigarette lighter slot and try charging the battery .

EXCELLENT reply! Exactly what I thought when I read the symptoms. Does anyone happen to have the link to the company that makes the waterproof box for the module? I would seem a smart thing to do..

I edited my post. I listed the wrong fuses. They are corrected now.

And rereading your first post I haven't helped you at all because your battery is currently disconnected. Sorry, I didn't read your post closely enough. MSDCaymanS' post may work. For that to work, you need to hope that whatever is drawing the current plus the current to power up all of the modules that are "always on" draw less than the fuse capacity that feeds the cigarette lighter. Worst case is you blow that fuse. When you power the little post in the fuse box, you are actually first powering a relay (which is what you hear clicking). Downstream of that relay, you are powering a few modules including the one that controls the front trunk release. There are stories of that not working with weak battery sources. The only thing I can recommend is to try again and make triple sure of your connections. The fact that you are hearing a click is a good sign. Did you check the battery in your key fob? In order to use the emergency release, you are supposed to use the key remote. If that remote isn't sending a signal, that isn't going to work.

One you get it open, I would route a direct connection to the battery up through the port next to the wiper with something like anderson power pole connectors. That way you'll have a direct connection in the future without needing to open the frunk.

Looks like they're still working on developing and releasing it: It might be worth asking them when it will be ready... I couldn't find any other similar products, so it may be they are the only ones working on it?

The only time I had luck with the battery pull out is cables to a running car. All that does is pop the front lid… these batteries draw all the time… buy a Ctek and problems are solved

I've asked but no response yet. Will update when I get a response.

The fuse in the cigarette lighter is "about" 10A, the fuse in the footwell hookup "about 3A".

This worked for me and in the past the factory solution worked, but this time, no help at all! The alarm went off as soon as I made contact with the psoitive in the cigerette lighter, hut unlock and then pulled the fronk! Great success. THANK YOU!!