Lost key! Thinking about replacing ignition switch

I lost my only key, dealer wants $500+ for new key and program. I was looking on ebay and found used ignition switches with keys for around $150. Do I need to have the dealer program these keys or will it be plug and play with new key? My doors do not have key holes so I wouldn't need to replace those.

Your driver's door doesn't have a key hole? Anyway, the ignition key needs to be coded by a dealer. Physically, your replacement will unlock the ignition but not start the engine until the "pill" in the key shell has been programed into the ECU . BTW, I think even the dealer will need to contact Porsche in Germany to code your ECU . And don't expect that to be cheap. So $500 and the dealer's support , parts, and labor may not be so expensive.

That won't work. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

What about this set with the ecu and immobilizer here ? I dont mind going dealer route but I would need to tow my car there and it's hard to get into my driveway

yea not sure what the previous owner did but I do not have a key hole on either doors

Is your driver's door handle missing? Because that's where the key lock should be. How did you come into possession of this car? A repo or salvage? BTW, a dealer won't program a new key unless you can prove it is yours.

It appears to only come with 1 key.. and for the ECU and immobilizer to work they have to match your cars configuration (engine, trans, etc..) Chances are they'd need programming before they'd work.

I only got one key when I picked mine up and wanted a spare. Bought a new key online and had a local locksmith cut the blade for a few bucks. Took the cut key to Porsche and they did the programming for me. Wasn't cheap, but wasn't $500 to go that route.

Do what RSchwerer recommends. I replaced my 986 key fob with a new jacket and forgot to replace the RFI pill, and it took me a while to figure out why the car wouldn't function. Exchanged the original pill into my new fob and worked perfectly. The keys on our cars are connected to the car. The ownership and coding need to be done properly by Porsche . It's just one of those things they locked us out of to prevent theft. Another thing that needs to be verified when buying a Porsche from anyone including salvage cars. Always buy another key for your car if you don't have two. It is worth the money. Did they ask you to prove ownership? The only way they did it for cheaper was because you already had the key and only wanted a duplicate. Duplicates in my area at the dealership are around $350

I have heard of people buying the keys and ECU 's as a package from wrecked cars. I think they still have to reprogram certain functions that may or may not have been in the original car or not in the replacement ECU . The replacements have to be matched to the receiving car pretty closely. Year, model, engine, transmission etc. I can't see that any more cost effective than just biting the bullet and have Porsche do it for your car.

I just had a new (spare) key done at the porsche dealership. Had to show proof of ownership, the key/fob has to be ordered from germany which takes 4-6 weeks. Cost of key and programming was 750.00 . Noway id do one of the hacks that cost 300-400 and still might need programmed.

When I got my car (repo from Auction) I believed it had no key (ugh). I sourced a "complete" set similar to whats shown at the ebay link earlier in this thread from a Porsche dismantler in California ($600). They listed the spec of the car it came from and told me to double check mine matched that (it did). Took a long time to swap in all the modules etc but everything worked fine, no programming needed. What they didn't include and I noticed its missing from the above mentioned ebay ad is the glovebox lock! I didn't realise until about 12 months later and its minor of course but DAMN IT!! Cheers, Julian

My situation is a bit different, but key-related also. I have one key for my 2009 Cayman . Figured I should have some sort of emergency spare, so I bought this replacement key blank and cap from Suncoast : Spare Emergency Key : Suncoast Porsche Parts & Accessories (suncoastparts.com) I'm assuming if I can find a locksmith to cut it for me, that's all I'll need to do. There's no programming involved -- the key will only work for starting the engine, the ad says -- but if anybody has info to add, please do! Thanks.

That doesn't sound right to me. In fact, IIRC, it is just the opposite. In fact, is says right there in the Suncoast description "Will not start the vehicle, " Any locksmith can cut (duplicate) a blank and it will unlock the doors and possibly turn-on the ignition ACC. I think the confusion is due to early 987s had an emergency wallet or valet key. I don't know what restrictions it had. The 987.2 does not have this.

There are three functions the key performs: 1 - Physical locking/unlocking of the doors and ignition lock and alarm system. 2 - Remote lock/unlocking of the doors and alarm system and frunk/trunk lids. 3 - Enabling the antitheft device called the "immobilizer" - which immobilizes the engine - it won't let the engine start unless it talks to a chip inside the key. ---------------------------------------------------- #1 can be cut by a locksmith (or bought from Porsche pre-cut based on your VIN#.) #2 the key can be programmed to the alarm system and door locks using a PIWIS . The key has a circuit board inside that sends an RF signal out when a button is pushed. The signal sent depends on the button pressed. This is a powered system hence the 2032 battery inside the key. #3 has to come from Porsche . The chip is like an RFID chip in your credit cards. It has a specific code burned into it, and that code is read by the immobilizer when it's inserted into the ignition lock. This code is tied to the VIN# of the car, and the immobilizer and engine CPU. If they don't get the correct response to a query sent by the immobilizer the car won't start. Coding the key is a one-time thing (it's burned in) done by the PIWIS which is connected to Porsche 's computers in Germany (or maybe in Atlanta if you're in the US.) #3 is what prevents the majority of vendors from being able to make a usable aftermarket key. I did read about a way the Russians hack into an immobilizer and read the code out in binary, then can use that to create a coded "lump" that will talk to the car and allow it to start. From the reading I did this requires R&R of the immobilizer, some wiring attached to it, a digital device to read the stored code on the immobilizer then a way of burning this to the chip in the key. I haven't heard of any devices that would trigger the lump to send out a response signal and allow reading and copying that response, but that would seem to be the next logical step in stealing cars so it wouldn't surprise me if something like that is available on the dark-net. Even then the value of this is marginal since for it to work the thief would have to already have a working key, so why bother creating another one? Maybe there is something like this available for locksmiths, but so far, I haven't heard of anyone getting a key made this way that worked.

Wow, Don, thank you for that! It explains a lot about these keys that was confusing to me. One thing that would be helpful to me in deciding to proceed with getting my blank cut by a locksmith: is there an advantage to be gained by being able to unlock the ignition lock and alarm system? I understand that the engine can't be started with a key of this type (#1), so would unlocking the ignition lock and alarm system be of any value? Thanks!

Probably the most common scenario is when you lock a key/fob inside your vehicle. Use the bare metal key to open the door and retrieve the key. Whether this scenario can actually play out depends on the generation of car. My 2012 Ford F150 could be locked and exited with the key inside. I had a key blank hidden externally on the truck which saved me a few times. My 2018 VW Atlas won't "lock" if the proximity key/fob is inside the car. But I still have a key blank hidden outside the car and my wife had to use it at least once. I don't recall the scenario. A strange story was during the purchase of my 86 928 the selling owner helpfully placed all the keys on the center console and then managed to activate the door locks! A locksmith cracked open the door window with one of those inflatable bags, reached in with a wire hook, and withdrew one of the keys. OP, look closely. I cannot imagine that your drivers door doesn't have a manual key slot. How in the heck are you going to get into the car on the sad day when your battery totally expires and the electric lock mechanisms don't respond.

I don't remember ever seeing an auction car that has 2 keys. I know Manheim auction got a hold of my car bought thru a leasing company from the handling dealership and when I retrieved it just before they went to try and auction it someone had lifted the remote starts, both keys and only the valet key was with the vehicle. We spent hours trekking over the Dallas Manheim lot from one place to another and the keys were not found. Finally Mannheim agreed to pay for the replacements because we had pics of the keys being surrendered by the former driver. One Honda I bought recently only had the valet key with it. End result after all shenanigans was the Honda Dealer forced me to buy a key from them, but they still could not program the fob!

ALWAYS check for two functioning keys and or fobs when buying a vehicle. One at minimum and immediately bite the bullet and have a spare made if there isn't two. It could save you hundreds of dollars in an emergency situation, even if you lose some time retrieving your spare, at least you won't be at the mercy of a non-operable car with no course of action but a tow to the nearest dealer, then a hard and stiff dry run to your credit card. OUCH!

RE: Ordering a Porsche key from the dealer by the VIN# I bought and repaired a really nice Boxster S with a little bump up. As per the auction industry standard, I only got one functioning key. I had noticed the key I had did not unlock the glove compartment. When the new key came from the dealer, It didn't fit the door or the ignition switch. I had assumed someone had broken into the glove box and they had just replaced that, but NOOO! The dealer supplied key fit the glove box, so the entire story became clear. The dealership would not take back the $175 VIN key so I had to eat that and get one else where.