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YOUR RESEARCH997.2 wading depth? - Page 1 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK
Leading reported evidence
Run engine long enough
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Ideally you should run the engine long enough after to thoroughly dry the engine, the compartment.
Leading evidence: 'Run engine long enough' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run engine long enough' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Be sure to use the brakes some to dry them out afterwards.
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Generation: 20261026T120458Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Yes, I know it's all relative, but all our local roads have at least a degree of flooding - we can get through in our X5 OK (except when the H&S numpties intervene) but tomorrow I'm going to need to use the 911. Standard PASM - ie without the -20mm sport option. Nothing I can see in the manual, otherwise I'd just assume bottom of the door seals, as long as I'm keeping the revs up sufficient to keep the exhaust clear.
Magic919 said:
Don't do this for gawd's sake.
I think that would work for an old diesel landrover - I've cheerfully waded one of those to above the bonnet, with water flooding in the windscreen vents (it had a snorkel). My concern is over where weatherproof but not waterproof wiring connections run, where all the expensive electronics & sensors are located and wondering just how immersion-proof the plugs/coil packs are on a flat-6. My Ducati is actually fine up to about 600mm of water, as long as I accept that by the time I come out it'll be a 600cc single, rather than a 1200cc twin. After that we're getting close to battery terminals & ECU.
Ideally, you should avoid driving through any standing water but if you must drive…
First, if the water level is above the exhaust outlets I'd not do it. If the engine dies water gets in the exhaust and this can cause problems with the converters/sensors.
Next you want to be sure of the road surface under the water.
A risk is water has washed away part of the roadway and the water hides this. One drives along and the roadway surface drops away and the car falls/slides into a deeper hole or even off the road.
Drove my Boxster through standing water at least up to the bottom of the car. I was sure of the surface underneath the water though. I took it slow just above idle in 1st gear. I had a big rig coming from the other direction and got on my handheld CB radio and asked the driver to take it easy, which he replied back he would and he did. Made it through ok.
You want to go slow to keep the splashing of water on the converters/sensors to a bare minimum. Hot converters do not take to having cold water splashed on them. If the engine has any marginal coils the engine could misfire if not at the time of the water crossing after as the water creates vapor and this permeates the engine compartment for a while after.
Ideally you should run the engine long enough after to thoroughly dry the engine, the compartment.
Be sure to use the brakes some to dry them out afterwards. They'll be wet and won't work very good initially.
If the water has trash on top of it this can collect in the radiator ducts so you may need to remove the trash afterwards. Trash can collect on top of the underbody panels too.
It didn't happen with my car but if any water gets on the serpentine belt it can slip and the voltage meter reading may drop/fall then the belt can squeak or chirp as it dries about after. Doesn't take long based on my experience with my Turbo after a washing or letting it sit out in the rain and the belt and pulleys get wet.
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