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YOUR RESEARCHBypass for rear wing light?
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect wiring harness at the trunk and so
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When previous owner installed the fixed wing he just disconnected the wiring harness at the trunk and so that also disabled the body 3rd brake light.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect wiring harness at the trunk and so' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect wiring harness at the trunk and so' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If you're going down this route I can find what I used the first time I made one
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Suggestion
Check out the Honda forums, they'll just use a piece of black electric tape on the outside.
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It took less then 5 min to do and it worked flawlessly.
You can buy a plug and play box for $129.00, you can build one of your own if you know anything about electronics for pretty cheap, or (at least on 997s) you can have it programmed out of the computer by a good Porsche shop, they'll prolly charge one hour of labor.
You basically have 3 options:
- Build your own harness (either buy a used one or sacrifice one you've got) very easy - remove the cables you dont need, solder or attach 3 wires together then plug it in. If you're going down this route I can find what I used the first time I made one
- Plug and play with a new one as RngTrtl mentioned
- Program out with Durametric or PIWIS
There is a simple 3 wire splice and connect hack.
I had the same problem when i bought mine and the warning would come on everytime the rear spoiler was to deploy. Obivuously with my fixed wing i was annoyed when the spoiler deployment failure light came on. I also realized that my 3rd brake light on the body was not working, changed out bulb and no luck. When previous owner installed the fixed wing he just disconnected the wiring harness at the trunk and so that also disabled the body 3rd brake light.
I did mine back in April so i can't quite remember all the details and the website that i found the info. I tried googling (only spent 5-10 min) it but no luck this time. If i have some time i can undo all the tapeing and tidieing i did to the wiring harness and identify the wires. It was a simple hack that only required identifing the 3 wires in the wiring harness that attached to spoiler/fan and splicing them. The hack made the brake light that would have been in the spoiler inopperable and the 3rd brake light in the body function and made the ecu already think that the spoiler is deployed. It took less then 5 min to do and it worked flawlessly. I haven't had the warning light come on since. I do remember it was written up by a retired engineer who analized the wiring harness and the problem and came up with the simple wiring hookup. When i was looking for a solution i was able to find it within an hour (total) or so of searching the internet.
The dealer and other harness options were not cost effective.
Definitely keep googling cause there is a simple solution.
Which year car? I've only looked at the early car wiring.
In these, the drive motor in the spoiler controls which brake light is active (high mount or spoiler mount) and whether the light in the dash is on.
When the spoiler is down (unten) the high mount brake light is disabled and the dash light is turned off.
Presumably you don't have the drive motor anymore with your fixed spolier.
I believe you can "spoof it" by grounding the spoiler retracted indicator wire at the motor connector (decklid wiring harness connector) in the engine bay. If you connect pin 5 (BR) with pin 2 (GR/GN) it will ground out pin 26 on the cluster, which should turn off the spoiler up warning light.
Check out Sheet 8 in the EWD in Bentley (EWD-28, and some of EWD-27). If your spoiler has a brake light in it, you may need to connect other wires to get it to work - BK/OR seems to be the + brake light signal throughout the harness.
Of course, YMMV, and for later years you may need to look further at the appropriate wiring diagram.
Check out the Honda forums, they'll just use a piece of black electric tape on the outside.
Serious note, I had mine deactivated at the stealership. It would only be on until going in first and driving for a couple hundred feet rather than on all the time.
I was hoping to fab up a simple wiring bypass.
I will be at the dealer paying for an hour of time to get another key programmed, so maybe they can do that while they are in there
A jumper wire is pretty simple and easy enough to try. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost anything other than a couple of minutes of your time and a small piece of scrap wire.
I'm sure you could easily simulate the features of the components in the motor with a simple relay, but I don't think you need to if all you are trying to do is turn off the dash light.
Oh, a quick Google search found this:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-spoiler.html
And this:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...ght-always-on/
Seems like jumping pin 2 and 5 isn't new information. Loren posted this in 2003.
Then there is always the option of the $129 plug and play Micromodule solution from Rennkit:
http://rennkit.com/purchase/
The 3rd brake light in the car body is not working after converting to a fixed wing. I do not have a brake light in the wing, so I simply need the 3rd brake light to work all the time. It seem like a lot of the discussion is going over my head. ha. I am not so much concerned about the dash light.
If this is not something you feel comfortable
with, there is another option that may not be cheap, but is easy: call Rennkit or Getty and get them to send you a harness made for a fixed spoiler. I have one of the Getty harnesses in my '02 and it works as advertised.
I think these are the two wires in question. I hadn't realised how basic the circuit is. I could almost certainly program a microcontroller to do away with the need to reprogram the ECU.
My mechanic looked on it, and decided to put a ziptie around the microswitch the close the loop so the car think the wing is down always, which enables the 3rd brake light. My dash cluster wing light comes on after 75 MPH, but that's not a big deal to me. It resets when I turn off the car, and the brake light continues to work.
That's a good way to solve it. This information is useful, because I hadn't realised that the light actually resets itself! I have a short to ground from pin 9 of the instrument cluster, even with everything disconnected!
Interesting. I'd be happy with that fix. There is a mistake in the 996 wiring diagram. The instrument cluster plug 1 is white, not blue! This really confused me until I got some sensible readings from the multimeter. I've tried connecting 2 to 5, to simulate 'spoiler deployed' mode, and 4 to 5 to simulate it being retracted. The readings are correct at the instrument cluster, but the warning light never goes off. I think my instrument cluster must have a dry joint on the main connector!
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