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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFront toe 'issue' after tie rod change
Leading reported evidence
Replace inner tie rods and outer track rod ends
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've just replaced the inner tie rods and outer track rod ends on my 1999 C2.
Leading evidence: 'Replace inner tie rods and outer track rod ends' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust toe' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is there a simple answer as to how much one complete turn of the outer track rod will adjust the toe?
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Suggestion
If you then find when you are driving on a straight, uncambered road that the steering wheel is, say, to the left then you need to adjust both wheels equally a tad to the left (maybe 1 turn on both track rods, right side in, left side out).
Replace any suspension component you should get the geometry
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Suggestion
If you remove or replace any suspension component you should get the geometry checked and adjusted.
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Suggestion
If you then find when you are driving on a straight, uncambered road that the steering wheel is, say, to the left then you need to adjust both wheels equally a tad to the left (maybe 1 turn on both track rods, right side in, left side out).
Use steering wheel straight ahed position as a datum, whereas
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Suggestion
tracking is one wheel relative to the other wheel, thus one wheel is not pointing out relative to the other, though i guess I can understand the confusion if you are using the steering wheel straight ahed position as a datum, whereas from your description that too could be well out after your component changes....
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Suggestion
As suggested you can use string to get you roughly there, and head to the nearest tyre dealership to get the track adjusted, after that you should be able to drive safely and not worry about scrubbing out tyres or weird steering.....
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Hi all
I've just replaced the inner tie rods and outer track rod ends on my 1999 C2. All went well removing and installing new with the help of a couple of youtube videos for guidance. However, the nsf wheel now has a noticeable amount of toe out whereas the osf wheel looks to my eye to be pointing roughly in the right direction. A short test drive and it felt pretty sketchy as you can imagine. Thinking that I had made an error somewhere I took it all apart again to check everything was tight, torqued correctly, etc. which it was however the toe out issue remains.
I've used new TRW parts and dimensionally they are the same as the old TRW parts that I've taken off. I also counted the turns needed to remove the outer rod ends so I could screw the new ones back on with the same number of turns.
Has anyone experienced this before and have any wisdom to share? My simple brain can't understand why only one wheel is affected.
When you counted the turns off, if things were tight, it is possible the inner rod spun a bit (on the ball joint) thus messing up your numbers.
This happened to me. Fortunately, I had previously measured the distance between the front inner wheel rims , so I was able to get it exactly back to how it was.
That makes sense although it all came apart pretty easily. Is there a simple answer as to how much one complete turn of the outer track rod will adjust the toe? I just want to get it somewhere close so I can drive to get an alignment done.
Turns only gets you in the ball park is you reuse the original parts.
If you remove or replace any suspension component you should get the geometry checked and adjusted.
To get it in the ball park you can use the string box method. Here's a reasonable looking explainer:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/at-home-alignment-how-to-string-align-your-car
You can measure the inner distance between the wheel rims, one measurement between the front-most part of the rim and one measurement at the rear-most part of the rim. Then it sounds like you need to wind in the nsf outer track rod to get the two measurements equal. It will be trial and error.
If you then find when you are driving on a straight, uncambered road that the steering wheel is, say, to the left then you need to adjust both wheels equally a tad to the left (maybe 1 turn on both track rods, right side in, left side out). Again trial and error. Vice versa if the steering wheel is to the right.
It seems from your description that you are currently suffering toe out which causes nervous steering to say the least. tracking is one wheel relative to the other wheel, thus one wheel is not pointing out relative to the other, though i guess I can understand the confusion if you are using the steering wheel straight ahed position as a datum, whereas from your description that too could be well out after your component changes.... As suggested you can use string to get you roughly there, and head to the nearest tyre dealership to get the track adjusted, after that you should be able to drive safely and not worry about scrubbing out tyres or weird steering.....
For sure a full geometry check by a Porsche trained tec would be ideal, if a tad more expensive...?
Good luck in your choices.
Thanks all for the collective input. With a bit of trial and error I got it roadworthy and along to the excellent guys at Tyrepoint in Maidstone who got the alignment dialled in on their Hunter machine.
Tip for the future:
You can't go off number of turns as the distance from each ball joint in the track rod ends to the end of the thread will vary so you've no chance of getting it spot on.
The trick is to do one side at a time. Get it somewhere near then take the car for a test drive. The steering wheel most probably be at an angle. Adjust the track rod (say quarter of a turn at a time) and go for another test drive. Repeat until you get the steering wheel straight again. Then move on to the other side and repeat. No need to take it for tracking if it was right before you did the job.
Good call from Alex, counting the threads does not work. You need to take actual measurements. Usually measuring from the end of the inner tie rod end to the nut holding the track rod is quite accurate to get you to an actual 4-wheel alignment.
