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YOUR RESEARCH996 coolant pressure test procedure
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Check since as i’ve only done 400 miles)
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I got home the coolant level was at the bottom, just covering the level sensor (was full when I bought the car in February, but I haven’t checked since as I’ve only done 400 miles).
Leading evidence: 'Check since as i’ve only done 400 miles)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check since as i’ve only done 400 miles)' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have fitted the new thermostat and water pump but unfortunately no look filling the system via the vacuum bleeder
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had an original yellowing tank and ‘01’ numbered cap so I have just replaced both, along with some coolant hoses that didn’t look great (all genuine).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Coincidentally my neighbour is dropping his 996 off with the same problem so I be doing the same as you with the exception of the pump and stat as he had them changed a while back, and strangely that was when the car started overheating.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I’ve tested the system using a pressure test kit with the appropriate cap etc, the reason I asked about the bleeder valve was I wrongly thought it bled externally, hence how did it hold pressure.
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Check since as i’ve only done 400 miles)
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I got home the coolant level was at the bottom, just covering the level sensor (was full when I bought the car in February, but I haven’t checked since as I’ve only done 400 miles).
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had an original yellowing tank and ‘01’ numbered cap so I have just replaced both, along with some coolant hoses that didn’t look great (all genuine).
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Coincidentally my neighbour is dropping his 996 off with the same problem so I be doing the same as you with the exception of the pump and stat as he had them changed a while back, and strangely that was when the car started overheating.
Test cooling system by suction and not pressure simply
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Suggestion
I test the cooling system by suction and not pressure simply because I have a vaccum bleeder which is essential for clearing air locks in the 996/7 engine (other will have their own view).
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Suggestion · Original poster
I’ve tested the system using a pressure test kit with the appropriate cap etc, the reason I asked about the bleeder valve was I wrongly thought it bled externally, hence how did it hold pressure.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Hi
Could someone confirm the correct procedure for pressure test the coolant system on a C2 3.6 please?
I’ve just tested at 12psi for 15 minutes and the pressure held, however I’ve just realised the bleeder valve was open, does mean it’s not working or the test pressure was incorrect ?
The expansion tank/cap are new and genuine.
Pressure in the system causes the bleed valve to lift up, so perfectly normal for that to happen.
Also once the valve lifts up and opens all it does is opens the bleed line from the front rads(and oil cooler) back to the coolant tank. It doesn't mean the valve opens to the outside world!
For a pressure test the position of the bleeder valve handle is not important.
Max
How are you testing the pressure? And were there any symptoms that made you want to test the pressure?
If you have pumped the cooling system up to 12psi and it is holding then there does not appear to be a leak, so I am confused as to the bleeder valve situation.
I test the cooling system by suction and not pressure simply because I have a vaccum bleeder which is essential for clearing air locks in the 996/7 engine (other will have their own view).
Incidentally, if you start your engine the pressure should remain the same, if it fluctuates then your head gasket is suspect.
Hi and thanks for your reply.
I’ve tested the system using a pressure test kit with the appropriate cap etc, the reason I asked about the bleeder valve was I wrongly thought it bled externally, hence how did it hold pressure. I now know it bleeds internally.
Below is a summary of what happened to prompt the testing and part replacement-
I was out in the car a few weeks ago and got caught in a traffic jam which lasted about an hour (second one since buying the car). Just before I got home the red coolant light came on, however quickly went off. When I got home the coolant level was at the bottom, just covering the level sensor (was full when I bought the car in February, but I haven’t checked since as I’ve only done 400 miles). The car never went above 90 degrees and the cooling fan kicked in/out in the traffic jams.
I had an original yellowing tank and ‘01’ numbered cap so I have just replaced both, along with some coolant hoses that didn’t look great (all genuine). I refilled the system up to the max (its been parked nose down so I suspected the radiators would still be full), opened the bleeder vent , let the car idle for a few minutes then went very steadily around the block to warm the car. When I got back I slowly released the cap and coolant came out. I let it cool a few minutes then drove for around 3 miles, after a short idle I opened the deck lid and coolant was escaping from around the cap and down the overflow, the cap was on tight.
So the loss of coolant is the concern. After replacing the tank and cap I’m not sure if it was due to the old cap or if I didn’t I bleed the system properly.
The coolant was also green so I have decided to drain, flush and replace the water pump, thermostat (low temp) and change to pink coolant. I’ve also order a vacuum filler.
The vacuum filler will do the trick.
I had the same set of symptoms with my then C4, stuck in traffic and actually boiled up. Very embarassing as my car was a cabriolet and every car in the jam seemed to queue up to tell me there was staem comming from the engine.
That is when i discovered that a vacuum purge and refill did the job.
Coincidentally my neighbour is dropping his 996 off with the same problem so I be doing the same as you with the exception of the pump and stat as he had them changed a while back, and strangely that was when the car started overheating. So it gives me something to do for a few hours. Good luck with the pump.
I will await your report.
Hi
I have fitted the new thermostat and water pump but unfortunately no look filling the system via the vacuum bleeder
I’ve attempted it but probably only got around 12 ish litres in. Obviously doing something wrong ?
- At around 10psi the engine bay hoses appeared flat, what pressure should I have before filling ?
-Is a 50L, compressor big enough?
- I’m not sure if all the old coolant was out, would this effect it (not helped by the car being parked nose down on the drive)
Thank you
Hi
I have fitted the new thermostat and water pump but unfortunately no look filling the system via the vacuum bleeder
I’ve attempted it but probably only got around 12 ish litres in. Obviously doing something wrong ?
- At around 10psi the engine bay hoses appeared flat, what pressure should I have before filling ?
-Is a 50L, compressor big enough?
- I’m not sure if all the old coolant was out, would this effect it (not helped by the car being parked nose down on the drive)
Thank you
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