2007 Porsche cayman oil drain plug leak

Hello Porsche friends. I have a question about my 2007 cayman recently I took my 2007 cayman for a oil change at tire kingdom with high reviews. After oil change I noticed my car start to have small oil drops under the car right under the drain plug location I took my car back to the shop 3 times and they did help me change a new crush washer and new drain plug But after 2 days it starts to show again as the picture shows is this normal or is this sth that I need to bring to a Porsche Indy to take a look soon? I am pretty sure there weren’t any oil on my floor before the oil change. I plan to take it to the Porsche Indy the next time I do oil change to have it taken care of all together please let me know your thoughts thank you! View attachment 302633 View attachment 302632 View attachment 302631

Standard procedure for all Porsche oil changes is to change the drain plug and crush washer every time, just for this very reason.

I don't know about changing the actual plug with every oil change, but they should be using a new crush washer. Also, make sure they are using a torque wrench to snug it up properly.

The drain plug is aluminum, and aluminum is soft. That's why you change it every time.

I've only replaced my plug once in 16 yrs and 20+ oil changes. And that was only because I had a spare sitting in my tool box and figured "why not?" The old one was in great shape. I still have it as a spare. With proper torque; a new crush washer; and care using the hex wrench; they'll last forever. Make sure your hex wrench is fully inserted into the hex opening or you could round the corners of the plug. Never use power tools on it.

The plugs, washers, oil, and filters are free from FCPEuro. So why wouldn't you change it?

Plus 1 on replacing the drain plug as a possible solution to the oil leak. I’ve put a new one on once in a while. But I’ve never had a leak. Also, it’s possible that a place like Tire Kingdom used the wrong crush washer. They probably have a huge batch of generic crush washers in different sizes. I seriously doubt they used a Porsche specific crush washer. I would recommend taking your car only to a shop that is familiar with Porsches. Makes a world of difference.

This is a definite possibility. The first time I changed my oil, I forgot to order the washer, and use a Honda one. It certainly looked right and actually had a good fit around the plug. Nope. 2 days later I noticed a very small puddle under the car.

I was also wondering about where the washer came from. I'm not sure how much different the M96 pan is from the 9A1, but my washer's diameter is only a little larger than the plug face. I believe it sets into a recess in the pan and, when crushed, seals perfectly. The photos above the washer looks larger than mine.

At Tire Kingdom and any high volume shop I'd have many concerns taking a Porsche to them. Foremost, they aren't going to wait a hour to let the oil completely drain. Also, who knows what tool they have handy to R&R the drain plug. Likely whatever sorta fits. I bet a 5/16" allen sorta fits. So does a T50 torx. But the fit is too sloppy and will round the facets. Hate to guess what those guys could do to the filter canister. Changing oil on our cars certainly isn't rocket science. Actually it is pretty easy if you know how, use proper tools, and take your time. Not likely to happen at a high volume service center with a backlog of customers waiting. UPDATE: without a dipstick to check, those guys are just going to pour in whatever their book says and send you on your way. If they haven't waited for a complete drain, that is likely to cause overfill. Us DIY guys like to slightly underfill and after taking it for a drive, add more oil to get the bars where we like them. I don't ever shoot for 100% full.

Exactly. I know for a fact my car takes 8 quarts. Don't care, 6.5 in, drive it around get it warmed up and check. Then I wind up putting the extra quart and a half in anyway. Way easier than putting it back in the air and draining some.

Try a hydraulic sealing washer instead of a crush washer. There us a reason the world of hydraulic banjo fittings switched.

Thanks everyone but guess what I am wondering now is if I could keep driving and wait till the next oil change take it to a proper Porsche Indy There is just one drip of oil on the floor each time after I drive.

One drip a day isn’t going to hurt anything. Put a piece of cardboard on the floor to avoid staining the floor. Keep an eye on your oil level until the next oil change. They might have used the wrong size crush washer. It looks larger than normal to me.

The washer looks to be incorrect, it is too large in diameter and that is probably why its leaking. Also is it torqued properly? Probably wouldn't matter anyway if the washer is incorrect. The specified washer is fine and shouldn't leak, mine never have after at least 30 oil changes... The shop screwed up and I'm surprised that a competent tech didn't realized the issue, or has and was hoping for the best until next time... If you were to remove that plug and see the size difference and lack of sealing surface contact area it would be obvious what the problem is..

If you can pipe your shop-vac to the oil filler, you can pull the plug without losing any (much) oil. No you won't suck in any oil because you can't pull enough air though to have that happen.

What are people's thoughts on the magnetic style drain plug?

Magnetic to catch ferrous dust/chips. Always a good idea, but probably does not make much difference.

I have used the shop-vac hack on other vehicles and it works like a charm. No oil running down your forearm, dripping all over the garage floor. I was holding my breath on my first oil change employing that method, but it was so effortless I wish I had known this 50 years and hundreds of oil changes ago. And in the case of the OP, it’s the ONLY way to pull off draining just a small volume of oil when needed instead of draining the entire sump.

I’ve run a magnetic plug for the past few years. I had a drip last winter so in the spring I put the car back up and changed the washer and torqued to spec and that solved it. My bet is on the washer

These are life savers; https://shop.app/products/10079763202322/165x-bonded-seal-washers-m6-m24-kit-washer-hydraulic-oil-petrol-sealing-washers

One drip a day won't hurt anything other than a clean floor. Keep an eye on it that it doesn't increase. Take care of it when you get the next opportunity. I have had that happen before. Sometimes a slight snug of the plug will take care of it. Use a torque wrench if you are worried about over tightening.

I've changed my own oil since 2017. Never changed the plug but used a new spec crush washer each time and a torque wrench . Never had a leak. Next time you change oil check the surfaces of the plug and sump for damage where the washer seals. Also clean and check the threads on the plug and sump to assure they are not damaged. If you use a new spec washer and torque it properly, I suspect the leak will go away.

Like many commenters before me, the washer OD does appear larger than the aluminum plug in the pix. Did the installer use a new, correct ID/OD, crushable washer... like they should? This hex, or torx, oil plug looks somewhat beat up on the inside flanges of the hex, and looks like an installer used one of those "damn" electric impact drivers to loosen... and God forbid, tighten the drain plug?? Testing the torque on the plug, after you, or anyone, has already over tightened it, does NO GOOD. That is what a torque ratchet is for on a hand tightened oil plug, per the tightening protocol? Centrifugal electric/battery or pneumatic powered wrenches are fast, but really should NOT be used on aluminum plugs for loosening or tightening. It is possible, though not likely one would hope, to tighten the plug so aggressively with an impact wrench to crack your ALUMINUM oil pan! I wouldn't touch the plug to tighten it further without a torque ratchet, and if it "clicks" without further rotation.... don't give it any more!!! Then you should buy a new oil drain plug, with a new crushable washer, and when the engine is cold, put a pan under the oil pan, quickly swap the plugs, tighten to spec, and re-top off the oil. In the pictures you sent, the oil on a fresh OCI, I would think, should look less brown that what shows... but it doesn't take long to pick up some "color". Porsche says that the oil should be permitted to drain until ALL drips stop. From my experience, as a DIY'er, that takes a fair amount of time on a hot, level, car... at least 20-30 minutes? Next , I hate to ask what brand of oil filter was used on your car.... but you should! I use Mann, Hengst, or Mahle filters ; likely they are all made in China now, but there is some difference between brands, and are Standard/OEM quality, NOT Economy. [I don't know what engine size you are running, the 2.7L or 3.4L, but the filters look interchangeable for the two engine sizes in your model of Cayman ] Does it say on your invoice? Oil filters aren't necessarily generic either. Often these mass merchant shops use one standard filter brand that may or may not meet Porsche specs for particulate capture size or longevity. Oh... finally, Tire Kingdom for oil changes, really, for your Porsche ... not wise. I could say something a LOT harsher, but I won't!! I can't recall with certainty, but the 2007 Cayman is one of the Porsche model years with IMS bearing [Intermediate Shaft Bearing] issues and also, depending on engine type, can be prone to bore scoring. Bore scoring and how to prevent it | Porsche Club of America With these two issues existing within your model year of car, I would highly recommend Blackstone or Speediagonix, or other oil chemistry company, analysis on your engine oil periodically, perhaps every other OCI. Just a thought, your engine oil, and the careful observation and review of its used oil, the used filter, and oil consumption characteristics are critical for Porsches.

Per your subsequent question on the small leak...... and leaving it until next oil change. I would not, while the few drops on the floor are manageable. During normal operation, the wind coupled with dust and dirt will make a mess on the underside of the car. Cleaning that up after-the-fact is a real pain too. Getting that oil on wiring, or rubber suspension components isn't optimal either. If the tech that changed your oil over-torqued the oil drain plug, I'd want to remove that stress on the pan? If he/she used the wrong sized crush washer, it could be over-torqued and still leak. Who changed your oil before Tire Kingdom took a run at it, the previous change?... maybe the washer wasn't changed at all. Did you observe him actually change the oil and filter, note my prior comment on the oil's color? I trust very little when it comes to auto repair shops.... including dealerships. When I don't do my own wrenching, I know my mechanic by name, and ask for him specifically...or wait... or schedule work based on his availability.

thanks, I've looked for a combination of washer seals like this.... This is great. I've had to purchase aluminum crush washers on a one-off basis for VW, Porsche , Lexus, etc.

Have you checked your oil level yet? I for sure would not trust those guys to have filled it properly after having not used the proper washer. This can cause engine damage if very over filled.

OMG.... never thought about that? Oil level. There's no dip stick on my 2011 911 Turbo S.... all electronic on the dash. Really not in love that feature..... old school I guess. Do 8 qts + MoS2 then measure and top-off, 8L, I suppose. The measuring sensor requires the oil measured to be at operating temp..... which takes a while. You really don't want to be "wrong" high or low while you are getting the oil up temp, but close. Even changing oil & filter is NOT a no-mind job on a Porsche . The 2007 Cayman oil fill is about 8qts. too... 7.75L.

Absolutely. I never add the listed quantity of oil during a change. I always put in roughly 1/2 to 1 liter less, than check regularly over the next several trips and add a few ounces at a time until it is one bar below top on the gauge. With such a large sump, being a liter low does not pose a problem, (unless tracking), but it’s better to be a liter low than a few ounces too high. And one of the best times to check it is when refueling, because the oil is hot enough, but the time spent refueling is long enough for an accurate reading and the few minutes spent waiting for it to read the level is worth the wait.