My Boxster journey - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

I have decided to pull links for my various Boxster threads into one place, mostly for myself so I can easily refer back to previous interventions, but also for others who might find my experiences useful. In 2018 I already had a Porsche 924S and a 928 and I sort of fell into Boxster ownership. I started this thread to share the work needed to catch up the maintenance on the first Boxster, the green one. https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1099769-getting-the-maintenance-up-to-date-on-my-new-2000-boxster.html Then it was the turn of number 2… the blue one. http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/74142-my-blue-boxster-refurb.html The original plan to sell the green boxster and keep the blue one got reversed… mostly because my friend Tony was more interested in the aesthetics than the mechanical and the blue boxster has nicer paint, beautiful wheels and fewer dents and scratches. The following threads are on specific repairs made to one or the other of the Boxsters. Clutch removal... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/74990-clutch-removal-notes-my-current-project.html Window regulator... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/78220-ebay-window-regulator-%2442-83-not-faint-heart.html Steering lock... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/75336-steering-locking-mechanism-problem-how-i-resolved.html Window drop problem… http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/78235-door-window-not-dropping-properly-%96-troubleshooting-check-list.html Then a new challenge with a spare engine I bought... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/79368-so-i-have-spare-engine.html Which caused me to think about and comment on the IMSB... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/79410-running-stock-ims-bearing-without-seal.html Then I wanted to save some money be making engine mount stops... http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/79456-diy-engine-mount-stop-9a137525701.html I will add other threads as they come up.

Nice! Thanks.

The spare engine mentioned in the first post is going into the car and I have started a new thread on the reconditioning of the original engine that has been removed. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/80969-going-through-my-original-engine.html#post637944 While switching engines I am doing a couple of other things: - new half-shaft boots and regreasing the CV joints - lubricating the steering column lock bolt

While working on the half-shafts I found a loose wheel bearing so ended up making a hub puller to get to and change the bearing http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81070-my-home-made-hub-puller.html#post638442 When I got the bearing off I found the grease was totally dried out, so I will be doing all four bearings. Newart lent me his bearing puller kit, which worked great once the hub was off.

The hub puller successfully pulled the other hub, then the bearing got pulled... The half-shafts are ready to go with new boots and regreased CV joints. As others have noted this is a really messy job. Start with a big stack of rags, a garbage bag and lots of hand cleaner. While waiting for new wheel bearings (a package got lost in transit) I have been working on getting my oil pressure gauge installed and have cleaned the airbag control module connector hoping that that will make the airbag light go away... which I doubt. I also renewed the brake fluid, another messy job.

Did you connect a durametric to see what the airbag code was for?

Quotes source post: 638704

It gave me codes – 3 - supply 21 - ignition circuit driver It has been awhile, I may have abbreviated the descriptions.

Sent you a PM, hope it helps.

I "think" those are the codes that would happen if someone took the seat out/disconnected it while the battery was still connected or the steering wheel. 21 looks like it's for the steering wheel airbag, but I could be wrong. I would clear the airbag codes and see if they come back with the durametric.

A set of wheel bearings finally arrived this morning. I have seen in a couple of videos that people open up the new bearings, take them apart and regrease them with high temperature grease. One video makes it look really easy to do this, in another it looks a bit harder and then there is a comment by a guy saying that he destroyed his bearings trying to take them apart. So I decided to do a partial repack, just removing the seals rather than trying a complete disassembly and cleaning. I used Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease, The seals (2 on each side of each bearing) come off easily using a pick. My bearings did not have the grease really packed around all the balls. I wiped away as much of the original grease as possible and used a paper towel and small screw driver to get it out from between the balls. Then I used a drug store seringe to shoot grease into the space between the balls, hoping that will force it into the inner race and surround the balls. Regreased... ... and resealed... Bearings and hubs are now in the freezer for the next step... installing them.

I haven't as yet checked the airbag codes with the Durametric. I did get the oil pressure gauge installed, but ran into a problem. I originally bought a sender and gauge on Amazon but then Newart gave me a real 996 combined sender, which I installed. It seems the cheap gauge didn't like the 996 sensor and went off the chart when I started the engine. So I ordered a real VDO gauge which is now installed but not yet tested.

The car is back on the road, I only got the rear wheel bearings done, the fronts will be done... soon. The "new" engine seems to be fine. While I had the Durametric on it I checked the Airbag codes and the list is long, but the important ones are: "3 - Supply voltage 195 - Control module internal fault - All fault codes over 100 indicate a critical fault and usually requre a new control module" I will check the supply voltage at the connector, if it is OK it would seem the control module is toast. Addition... I checked the supply voltage and it is OK... so it would seem that the module is defective. Still haven't got an oil pressure gauge. I think the sensor unit is defective, but that can wait.

Did you clear the airbag codes to see if they come back?

Quotes source post: 639467

Yes I cleared the codes... and they came back.

Had to ask, ya never know. It's pretty rare these would go bad. Wonder if it is similar to an issue I had with my litronics module. One of the pins at the wiring connector had come out slightly and I needed to push it back in.

After several days of driving the biggest improvement is because of the rebuilt engine mount, the vibration after shifting at anything over 4000 rpm is gone an a lot of the noise that I thought was coming from the suspension when going over bumps is also gone. The engine is a good as or better than the original engine.

Just got back from a 5 day vacation in the Boxster, the new engine has done a total of 1600KM since being installed and it runs like a champion. Today I finally got my oil-pressure gauge installed... it works a lot better when the wires are on the correct connectors Here is a discussion on what the oil pressure should be. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81566-what-oil-pressure-supposed.html

With the Boxster in the garage for the winter I am working on a couple of things. The passenger window continues to cause problems because it does not drop enough when the door is opened. I have tightened up the regulator cable and it seems to be better... I will report back with details after further testing. The big project is reupholstering my seats which is described in this thread. http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/81934-reupholstering-boxster-seats-lseat-kit.html

When I bought the car the driver's seat height adjustment mechanism was frozen and the socket on the plastic lever was broken. I got the mechanism oiled and freed up but I was not ready to pay $40 for a new, flimsy lever... so I decided to fix the old one. I cut a strip of aluminum and JB Welded it to the socket. I used safety wire to make sure that that I got a good bond. A bolt replaced the pin that was broken off. Initial tests indicate that the lever is as good as new... or better. Updated January 2023... The repair described above seems to be fine, I almost never use the lever since I am normally the only person who drives the car. When I bought my 2000 S the driver's seat had the same problem, so I did the same repair. On this car the pin that centers the lever on the receiver in the seat was present, so initially I tried the repaired lever with the pin in place. Unfortunately the splines on the lever and the receiver were too damaged and the lever slipped as soon as significant pressure was put on it. So I removed the pin, drilled out the hole to 3/16" and inserted a bolt. The bolt holds the two pieces together solidly and now it doesn't slip.

I am planning to do the front wheel bearings next, these videos have inspired me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsCHAIHuXWY and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7zXCDyi234&t=1377s I'm waiting for spring compressors.