Tracking/Racing your Porsche Cayman or Boxster

Could anyone in the Porsche Racing Community, or anyone that tracks their car often, tell me what someone would be looking at in terms of maintenance and repair for these vehicles after average use. Maybe even a parts list or an idea of what types of modifications (safety and performance) you may need to compete on the racing side of these cars? Has anyone on here used the open top Boxster model in competition? Just wondering. Would the base models still be competitive? Could you also include some other hardships you may expect to encounter while trying to track/race. 981

Racing a car is much different than using it for track days. Racing can become a six figure annual expense depending upon what type of racing is being done. One of the largest expenses for racing is tires which are many thousands a weekend. But tracking a car can really vary depending upon the number of track days and how much one wants to modify the car. And also how much of their own work someone does versus using a shop. Starting out isn’t too expensive. Track brake pads, high temp brake fluid and some decent 200 treadwear tires are all that’s needed. There are folks who enjoy several track weekends a year with just that. But it’s a slippery slope: suspension upgrades, racing seats, harnesses and roll bars, performance exhaust , engine mods, cooling mods, aero kits, fire extinguishers, engine tune, car trailer, data logging and video, etc. all these can add many tens of thousands. It’s not an inexpensive hobby, but it’s a blast!! I’ve gone down the rabbit hole and told the accountant in my head to stop adding up the costs because there is truly nothing else like pushing a Porsche to its full potential. We are spoiled these days with the capabilities of these cars, but unfortunately we can’t come anywhere close to experiencing the capabilities of a Porsche on the street. Greg - who is in the process of buying a car trailer. 😃 Pic of garage at Watkins Glen earlier this year with PCA. There was even a GT2.

Mr Greg. That is a great response. I should have delivered the question to this post with a little more information. I was on my work lunch break and tried to spit it out before the bell rang. I plan to eventually take my current car to the tracks in my area and wanted to get some information as to how much I may have to invest to have fun and be sort of competitive. I was also interested in racing as well but knew I probably wouldn’t be ready for all that right away due to all of the help that is required to have a successful race team. I’m in a base model Porsche Boxster , and am curious as to if that would ever be allowed to be on a track, and how to make it safe enough if it was allowed. Maybe Porsche sells a hard top for it, or maybe a cage. I saw a Porsche Carrera on eBay that is selling for $6500 without a engine and transmission and was trying to get a ballpark figure on how much of a business loan or how much capital some one would need after a car like that is rebuilt to actually race it. Seems like a checkered flag type of car that would be perfect and would win a lot of races. Any idea what classes they have for amateurs and if they are any fun? Thanks for any and all advice, I look forward to hearing your responses.

I agree with everything @PorscheGreg said. I would another important difference. Most organizers of track events promote safety. This doesn't just include driver/instructor safety but generally contact between your car and another car is greatly frowned upon. As a precurser, most groups I run with will spot aggressive driving (actually the corner workers spot it and report in) and you can quickly be cooling your jets in the pits getting a lecture, or even sent home. My general observation over 15 years of HPDEs run by reputable groups is that loss/major damage to one's car is rare, but not unheard of. As is said at most drivers meetings, a track event is not a race! Now let's switch to racing, say PCA Club Racing. Now it is a race. And folks will do crazy stuff to win. Including taking out your car. Guess who gets to pay for the damage to your car? You do. No insurance will cover it. After going to some race events in my younger days and continuing to see pile ups in Turn 1 Lap 1, I decided my pockets weren't nearly deep enough for racing. But to answer your question, for HPDE's/track events brake pads, brake fluid flushs, technical inspections to get you on track, tires, and fuel are the general consumables. Most groups will let you run with stock seats and belts. That makes me nervous so then you get into safety improvements like an aftermarket seat and 6 point belts. Again, as PorscheGreg points out, performance mods are just a huge rabbit hole.

Are you serious Porsche on Porsche crimes? And at their own events? No..this can’t be. Well I may purchase my PCA annual membership today anyways. By the way that picture looks awesome! I wish I was there. Maybe I should have got the Cayman for the hard top lolz 😝

Mr Greg, may I ask why you sold your access port? Also know anything about the “ Porsche Corral” that they sometimes have at certain races? I’m headed to the Braselton, GA race at the end of the season (October 8-11) and apparently they are offering a “ Porsche Corral Parking Pass”. I’m not sure what that is, but I may decide to purchase a ticket for it since I’ll be at the race anyway. The only thing is I can’t decide if I want to arrive in style in my own Porsche , or camp out in my RV with my dad that weekend.

There are lots of options with racing, but you won't know if any of them is your fit until you get a taste of driving on a track. PCA is a great organization and I encourage you to join. It's well worth it even if you don't track your car. Many regions organize PCA HPDE's. The PCA structure instruction and structure emphasizes safety. While there are certainly a few incidents here and there, the vast majority are single cars incidents in which they have gone off track rather than contact between two cars. Quite honestly, I think it's safer driving on a track than the street. If you have decent tires on your car already (e.g. Michelin PS4S ), I would encourage you to get some track pads and high temp brake fluid. Your car is fine for HPDE. Get out there and experience it. I wouldn't focus too much on racing or what kind of car you might want down the line. Those are much further down the road and distract from the practical steps you can take get a taste. Just get out and enjoy your car. If you like it, you will figure out the next steps that fit your own mix of interest, talent and budget. There are folks who do tons of work on their own cars and some who don't even touch a wrench. In terms of the Cobb Accessport , there are a couple issues: 1) In colder temps it was putting my car in limp mode. There is a whole thread on here about that problem. 2) I went with a Softronic tune . A much better tune with better performance and no problems with colder temps.

Hey thanks a lot. I will join after I settle my budget for the month of July. I just got the Access-port this week and am currently analyzing some of the data as we speak. I tried to track my car at Porsche Experience center but they have discontinued that service for some reason. I have been looking into road atlanta but not quite sure about track insurance and all. Thanks for your help, I’m going to keep researching. Would it hurt to continue using the high temp brake and track pads on the street. I could upgrade to it if it’s safe for year round use.

First of all, this is posted in the wrong forum if you're asking about a 2015 Boxster that you have listed in your profile. That would be a 981 rather than a 987. We can ask the @admin to move this over. To your post... If you don't have any track experience, the first step would be getting into a High Performance Driver Education program. There are a number of groups that do this. I would start with your local PCA, but NASA (National Auto Sports Association), Chin, SCCA, and a lot of others offer this type of program. You'll learn to drive your car on a closed course with instruction to learn the basics of performance driving. HPDE runs about $400/weekend, depending on group or track. I started in HPDE with my Boxster in early 2017 with PCA. I worked my way through the HPDE program from bottom to top in about 2 years, driving my Boxster, and now instruct with them (Maverick Region - North Texas). I got into wheel-to-wheel racing with NASA in 2020. If you decide to go into wheel-to-wheel racing, I'd highly recommend starting with a less expensive car with lower running costs. Being a newbie, the best option is to buy a pre-built racecar. You'll save a fortune and avoid a lot of pitfalls that can come about from not knowing what you're doing in building a car. A cage itself runs in the $6-7K range, and there a lot of performance mods and other things. A typical build starts at $20-30K or considerably more, depending on what you're building. People are always selling race cars. You can meet people at the track that are upgrading, or go to racingjunk.com. I bought a race-ready E36 M3 for about $12K and run in the NASA Super Touring-5 class. We put in about another $3-4K in upgrades to make the car competitive in its class. I was looking at a race-prepped Cayman S, but it was going to cost me about $60K, and that was a little rich for my budget. The P-car consumables will also eat you alive as everything on a Porsche is expensive - and you WILL break things. If you're interested in getting into amateur racing, I would recommend going to NASA at some point. They are national and have an HPDE program which directly progresses toward competitive Time Trial or amateur racing. At NASA, they run HPDE, Time Trials and wheel-to-wheel racing all at the same event. There are dozens of different classes, and you may decide to go a completely different direction depending on who you meet and the friend group you develop. The thing about amateur racing is that it's a bunch of friends who get together on the weekends and race. There is little-to-no animosity (aside from the occasional on-track brush) and everyone is more than willing to share their experience and recommendations, as well as help you when your car gets broken (notice I didn't say "if"). Even if you're DIY-inclined as I am, you're going to need to get one or more expert shops that knows this car and can help you maintain and upgrade it. There is a continual amount of upkeep to keep a car race-ready, and you'll inevitably break something, motors included. My car has low-to-mid range running costs, and it cost me roughly $2000/weekend (not counting transport costs) when all is said and done. Registration fees are about $600/weekend, but there are ways to offset this cost by instructing or other volunteer opportunities (my wife runs timing and scoring to offset my registration fees). Tires are about $1600/set (Hoosier R7) and they'll last 2-3 weekends (the first 4-6 sessions are optimal and performance falls off from there). You'll have a rotation of 2-3 sets of tires depending on what you're doing - practice, qualifying, racing, then another set of wets. Brake pads, rotors, wheels, wheel studs, belts, fire system, helmets, gloves, racing suits, shoes, etc. are all consumables in racing, so you'll drop some additional cash as time goes by to replace them. You'll need consider a tow rig, trailer, and a place to store your car. (I gave my wife a Cayenne S, which makes a great tow rig). I'd also highly recommend getting a mentor who lives nearby. They can really help you on car setup and getting you connected with the right people and find the right car.

I've been running a 987.2 S for a year and a half now and a bit over a dozen HPDE track days in that time. I've been lucky so far mechanically so I'll share about consumables. A day is 5 or 6 (sometimes more) ~20-minute sessions. 2 - 3 days on a set of front brakes, a couple more on the rears. FCP Euro warranties their used up brake pads and I've been saving on brakes with that exchange. This set of tires is on track for ~10 track days (Yokohama AD09's). I change the oil more often and send in samples for analysis. You don't have to go crazy buying parts and upgrading the car to have fun in HPDE but might find you wear tires unevenly on street alignment. Buy a helmet and try it out.

After doing about 8 years of hpde 4-5 weekends a year I am surprised that the maintenance is is mostly pads, tires , fluids, as a beginner your car needs nothing as long as you have 50% pad, fresh brake fluid , and tires less than 5 years old, just follow tech sheet,in the beginning you are learning basics and developing good habits, you don't need race pads or the best tires , as you learn after at least 4-5 event you might want to get sticker tires better pad, then if you love it a couple years later it is not needed but coil overs, lots of negative camber and all sorts of stuff, a 100% stock Porsche is so beyond a beginners driving level, go have some fun.

Hey 9BOX8Tyson1Ster If you are interested in racing, you don't have to start in a Porsche. There are lots of options available to you at the entire spectrum since you live in Atlanta. I started Kart racing right up the road at Atlanta Motor Sports park in Dawsonville. There is a reason that nearly every F1, Indy Car and other road racing driver started with Kart Racing. Super fun and several classes/levels of fast that you can drive in not to mention pretty cheap. You will also pull more lateral G's in a kart than most race cars. There happens to be "round 6" of the karting series at AMP this Saturday. Take your porsche out for a saturday drive and drop by the track to check it out. There are typically a 100+ karts on a race weekend. You can get more info on the event at https://www.motorsportreg.com/event...events/amp-summer-championship-series-round-6-atlanta-motaporsports-park-693772 Here is a photo from a few years back at AMP. The guys behind me are in either P2 and P3, or P16 and P17....I cant recall. If you want to step it up a notch, AMP has a road racing venue as well but I am not sure a membership is required. You also have road atlanta that hosts HPDEs, NASA events and SCCA events. Just stop by during one of these events, walk through the paddock and talk to the drivers. We love to share our love of racing, our cars and the people. I race in SCCA events and it is my understanding that SCCA has the most classes of car racing/options for price points. Unfortunately we just had an SCCA event on July 19-20 at Rd ATL. Our next RD ATL event is Nov 1-2. We have several venues with 5 hours of you such as Barber (Aug 23-24), CMP, BMP, VIR, RRR which are in addition to RD ATL and AMP so you are well positioned to have a variety of fairly local tracks. If you develop appetite for more iconic tracks, we also race at Daytona, Sebring, Watkins Glen and nearly every other professional track in the country. After karting for 4 years I bought a Specracer Ford Gen 3 (SRF3) and race about 10 events/year in SCCA. See image below. It is a low hp/low weight car that actually hangs with and beats many of the caymans and 911s (sorry guys). It is truly a spec car with sealed engine and transmission, spec tires, shocks, etc so you are racing on a level playing field and can't be out spent. It has a fiberglass body which is relatively inexpensive to fix if say someone spins in front of you at VIR and forces you into the tire wall, but I digress. It is also one of the most popular SCCA classes and there are generally always someone to battle with during the race. As a side-note, after doing several PCA HPDEs in my CGTS, I practiced in my SRF3 at PCA HPDEs at AMP, RD ATL and BMP before racing it. Although I used to live in Atlanta, we moved 90 mins up the road to SC. If you want to reach out directly I am more than happy to share more details with you or you are welcome to drive up and learn first hand. Just not enough time to share in this forum. Hope this info is helpful. Not trying to boast with photos but just trying to whet your appetite.

Ahh yess! Atlanta Motorsports Park Dawsonville, Ga 30534 Great Deal! A gentleman at the Porsche Experience center told me about the Radical SR1 XXRs. These pictures kinda remind me of those. Full track cars, not as detrimental to mental health to consider fully totaling out as something like a Porsche. Any idea of what is required to ride there? An invite? Gear? Helmet? Cages? Maybe track tires? Track insurance? I hear high temp oils and brake fluids for sure. I just found a pair of shells Cayman and a Cayman GT4 that are being sold on eBay right this second for $450.00 cash each. I would imagine these are the products of this sort of environment, and have been thrashed to non repair on a track somewhere. That would suck.

Sorry for being non response to my own post. There was a lot answered and the forum became overwhelming and fast. It hurt my brain and head lol 🤕

Since retiring three years ago I have been spending a lot of time tracking my car out here in Norcal, so been a little down the road you're contemplating. You should jump in the pool - it's very very friendly, one learns a massive amount about cars, and gets to work on advanced driving skills you can't practice on real streets. Rabbit hole definitely has no bottom though and the $$$ can pile up quick. I will second @ledbette take on running costs. I typically change a full set of tires every 6-7 track days depending on how greasy they are feeling. High-temp brake fluid should be flushed after no more than 10 track days depending on your driving profile. Pads need replacing whenever they drop to 6mm, which is typically 4-6 weekends depending on how hard you're driving. A race alignment at least 1X/year - your street alignment isn't appropriate to frequent tracking. The great news is that your Porsche is pretty much ready for HDPE from the factory except for the brake fluid. As opposed to Audi, BMW, Mercedes who use much cheaper parts. I began tracking in my Audi which needed new front rotors to handle it. Porsches are just built for this under their "race to road" philosophy. But.... the real reason I'm wading in here is to toss out two other ideas on ways to get started / test the water. First is autocross (AX). Local Porsche clubs all over the country run their own AX every month - it's slower than being on a track (typically max speed 60-65mph but mostly less) and less intensive on a car. You can easily take a daily driver to an AX. Most clubs offer beginner instruction for a small extra fee - and AX registration fees are already low - about $100 for a day in Norcal. Another $50 for instruction. This is a very very safe way to drive your car in a slightly more aggressive environment and see what your tolerance is. Out here AX is allowed with open top vehicles so I see lots of convertibles including Spyders, Miatas, Boxsters and the like running AX courses with no rollover protection. It would be really really hard to roll your car in this activity. I just brought my son to his first AX which he did in his Honda Civic and had a blast. The other idea since it sounds like you're local to the SE - and you can afford to part with some more serious instruction fees - then you've got to spend a few days at Porsche's official US school in Birmingham AL. Porsche Track Experience Birmingham - Porsche Driving They have 1 day and 2 day beginner classes, I think the 1 day is maybe $2K and the 2 day is $4.5K or so. Lots and lots of people come to the L1 class just to get a taste of driving on a track. Most of the people in the L1 class don't necessarily plan on tracking, they just want the experience in a safe environment (using somebody else's car). There are tons of husband/wife, father/son, father/daughter, and buddy/buddy groups who come too. The school has at least $20M of inventory of 911 GTS, 911 GT3, Taycans, Pannys, 718 GTS 4.0, etc. so you're not driving your own car. I've been there several times to complete the L1, L2 and most recently the L3 class. Cannot say enough good things about the Porsche Track Experience. This is NOT the LA/Atlanta Porsche Experience Centers which are basically high-end car showrooms with short tracks. Birmingham is a driving school with a large instructor staff of former pro racers, on a gorgeous track (the "Augusta" of tracks), and 10 different classes. The school runs over 160 days per year with 25-30 students per class. The instruction is just utterly superb. My first visit I did L1+L2 back to back in 4 days. In that time I got in 165 laps on the main track - which is a crazy amount of track time. We drove five different Porsche models (Carrera GTS, Turbo S, Taycan, Panamera and Cayman GTS 4.0). The 992.1 Carrera GTS is the primary car, you'd take turns in the others for specific activities. In addition we had seven sessions each on (1) the wet skid pad, (2) the autocross track, and (3) the turn-and-balance exercise track. The staff is off the charts and it was great to hang out with so many car lovers from around the country. The skid pad, turn-and-balance pad, and AX tracks are there to teach car control skills when you're not on the main track. They break the class up into halves, and at any given moment one half is on the main track, while the other half are on the exercise pads. Bottom line, this is another great way to test the water if you're unsure of your interest / commitment level. Here are some pix from my first visit.

Thank you for all the responses. 👇🏽 Pretty scared to attempt to track the Boxster model even though I know it was born ready. 👍🏽 or 👎🏽 That would be scary to roll over imo. I haven’t been able to find any crash ratings for these cars, and I believe it’s due to the price tag. Who is gonna wreck a $60,000 car they just spent a year or longer building…

Hey guys thanks for all the great racing/tracking questions. I signed up for the Porsche Club of America, and have found an event I am going to attend. I’ll be at the Peachstate Autocross Event #6, and will be tagged #167!! This will be my first event and am pretty excited to join the community. I also want to see how my tune, gt3 throttle body , and plenum stack up against other cars at the event. Thanks for your help. 🤓

That's awesome - have a great time! BTW dunno if you have kids or an SO but it's always fun to go to an AX with family or buddies. I recently took my son to his first AX and he had a blast getting to compare his Honda Civic Si to my 718 GTS (I made arrangements with the AX organizer for him to have a session in my car).

Not only that... sometimes you choose to slow down on purpose. As noted elsewhere here, am in my 3rd year of this adventure with a pretty bad bug for it. Heavy instruction first 2 years (the usual random DE weekend instructor scratch-off ticket). Soloed most of this year while I played with my setup. Am consistently one of the quickest in my local upper intermediate run group. But I knew to get quicker it was time for a dedicated coach. So I hired one. He's now intentionally slowing me down and trying to un-f#$k all the bad habits I've taught myself already. Having to learn an improved line specific to my car, changing lots of turn-ins, etc. etc. When we started I was over 7 seconds average off my typical previous pace, basically giving up all the speed I "taught" myself in 2024-5 period. He promises me I will get quicker as I internalize the marks and get consistent, right now I'm having trouble believing it. This Is The Way

Without knowing the details of the specific coaching, it seems strange to make so many changes that your lap time has slowed by 7 seconds. In my experience, unless something terrible or unsafe is going on, changes to driving should be gradual with emphasis on a few things at a time. So either all of your previous instructors did a poor job and promoted you without warrant to higher run groups, or the current coach is potentially overwhelming you by trying to make a bunch of changes all at once.

No, it's all legit. Longer story not for here. Am very happy with the new instruction.

What’s up guys! I blew my phone last week, been struggling to pick back up ever since… I can say, that I had my first track experience at Road Atlanta this weekend during an intermission of the Petit Le Mans with the PorschePlatz! I was allowed three laps around the 12 turn 2.5 mile track, and my only instruction was to stay behind the car in front of me. Lucky for me I was behind a Cayenne ! I can really appreciate this racing sport now, and want to say thank you for all the advice. The car did great. I kept it in a really low gear, and high rpms keeping a lot of traction. It sounded A lot more strained and more exhausted (pun intended) when compared to the racing headers of the GT4 clubsports we were hearing during the race. I could really use some exhaust pipes, or headers , with my current mods. The plenum and GT3 throttle body did great but being that my car is the MA1.22 I don’t have the actuators to control my air flap, so the car just opens the flap when cramming air and drops the flap when I let off the throttle, making a shiny sound from the exhaust . I was able to take a data log and am still analyzing data from it. Tomorrow I’ll make my way down to Hampton, Ga for PCA AutoCross #6 under the name “Tyson Racing“ #167.

Could use some help/advice. I pushed my car pretty good this Autocross full sending it several times and really trying to engage my clutch, double clutching, and using the gas to almost pull the clutch in without even having to press it. I like to call the Porsche Surge. Its terrible for the clutch, or at least that one, but it makes the most impressive sound to me as it strains to regain composure, and sounds so Porsche , and awesome! It was raining pretty good and I thought the issue I am having may be related to a rusty selection wheel that got wet during the drive, but I don’t have the wheel I have the head of a hammer looking think that moves under the car, on the transmission as I select the gears. Anyways it may need to be lubed, but that option of correction to the problem was eliminated when I realized the problem I am having is only when the car is on. So, (sorry I’m trying to spit it out), when the car is off I can engage any gear, even reverse, but when i start the vehicle I cannot engage the gears without a ridiculous grinding, crunching sound. It sounds like the chronos are being crunched and grinded up together to engage any gear. It has to be like jammed into gear to engage a gear. I am also experiencing engine “slipping”, as I increase the rpm’s the car doesn’t seem to accelerate anymore as it did before the Autocross. I am wondering if this means the need for a new clutch, or if I need transmission fluid. Maybe a combination of both? Anyways, I did some research and surpassed the recommended specification for the OEM style clutch by almost 50-100 ft lbs of torque. Does anyone have recommendations for replacing? Would you use the Dual Mass Flywheel? or change to Single Mass? Would you still replace it with another OEM clutch? or choose an aftermarket style? Thoughts on Brands/Styles for replacement? race clutch, street clutch, multi use? Is that even the issue, in your opinion?

Glad you enjoyed yourself at the AX. I drive a PDK not manual so not able to translate your description into Porsche experience. Am a little surprised to hear that you're able to double clutch and separately blip the gears on your first go.... either way that noise you describe as a the "Surge" doesn't sound good at all to me. Based on your follow on problem reports, from other manuals I've owned it almost sounds like you're describing two issues. Loud / unusual noises on gear selection as you surmise could be an issue inside the tranny gearbox, while your description of "slipping" is classic burned out clutch behavior. You'll know for sure when you get to the point where you floor the throttle "in gear" and the car goes nowhere. I think a visit to whoever your authorized service provider is, whether Porsche or a race shop. Others might correct me here - but if you don't have a race type shop that might be a better place to start as they might be most familiar with this type of driving effects and also you don't inadvertently say something to the dealer that ends up with some note in your file affecting the warranty.

What you are describing sounds very much like what my car did when the clutch slave cylinder went out, though if any part of the hydraulic system isn't working, the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and you would get those symptoms. Before digging into the transmission, check all the parts of the hydraulic system.

jokingly* Thanks for the advice… Stage 6 it is lol 🤭🤓😁

Sorry and forgive me. My lazy and inarticulate post did not describe the sound. It should probably be referred to as ”sugg” not “surge”. I basically meant the sound of Porsche when it is working amd climbing thought its gearbox, really being put through its paces. Not necessarily anything to do with the clutch, as it makes the same sound when the clutch isn’t being suggged into the floor. That sound of the car synchronously ascending to red line, and the sounds you hear after about 5200 RPM, or after a harsh gear change and its trying to get back to the measure of torque it had before shifting. It’s the mature strain I’m talking about that then transitions to the next “note“ or ”gear” in the gear box, maybe with the clutch engaged just a hair longer than usual. That same sound appears when you draw out the clutch a little too long. You are absolutely right, how uninviting is the same sound thats made when it’s being made while the clutch is being half engaged and half unengaged. Can’t be good. Well I don’t Autocross a lot and drive on the street mostly. I may try OEM again, but I’ve heard some good things about some higher stages.

I coming in late to your discussion- a few comments: I would find someone who owns or services a similar Boxster and go out with them on a test drive. You can probably find a vacant parking lot and recreate the autocross experience a bit. Frankly, your description above is confusing and it is not even clear if you have a problem or not. Before you jump into changing things, get an expert involved and come up with a diagnosis and a plan. I am not personally a big fan of autocrossing. I think it is incredably tough on equipment. You get no warmup for anything beyond the actual engine and then you go out and flail the car for 90 seconds. It seems like a recipe for flushing up every costly weak point in your used car. Standard HPDE/track time is not so bad. If you can restrain yourself and do a few easy laps, you get the entire drive train warmed up. From there, you are mostly tough on tires and brake pads. As noted above, racing is a whole nother level, cost wise and committment wise. As far as upgrades, I occasionally pass some very expensive cars at the track in my 20 year old Cayman but generally speaking, I am the one being passed. Be happy with your car for what it is. Porsche builds a very well designed capable car. I always recommend that you keep your car in stock condition until you have dozens of track days under your belt. In particular, since you are talking about it, stick with the stock dual mass flywheel. Jake Raby, a recognized expert, has the same advice. BTW I don't know where you live but check out SCCA Track Night in America. A pretty cost effective way to get on track. Good luck with your endeavors. Get some seat time!!! HarveyF

This is great! As a matter of fact I have yet to find a single mass flywheel that would be a sufficient replacement. Porsche has created a masterpiece indeed! It is still very disappointing to compete in laps around a circuit at a natural pace only to look up at the time and realize you took one of the last positions in the field. This is evidence and motivation to reasoning for wanting it to go faster.… Along with also wanting maybe some better driving skills, the fact that you appear in the lowest percentile during an Autocross, despite being in a Porsche creates a thought process to want to push the car beyond the factory limits. I agree the car is already well ahead of the curve, but it can still be tuned to higher performance.. Basically looking for a heavy ”spirited driving” aftermarket clutch that can handle the abuse of occasional Autocross and still manageable on the streets. I have smoked through two now since purchase.

@wwexell was is necessary to change the “clutch” as well?or just the clutch master cylinder. Sorry when I say clutch I guess I’m referring to the bearings, the friction pressure plate, the flywheel, or the clutch disc.