I’ve recently run into some issues starting my car where the accessories would turn on but the engine wouldn’t start unless I was making sure to bottom out the clutch. I determined this was the clutch ignition switch (part #: 997.613.109.50) and replaced it with a new one. This solved my issue.
From what I was seeing online, some more dramatic versions of this problem can be that you get a message to depress the clutch even when it’s already pressed or the engine won’t turn over at all with the clutch fully pressed.
This is a really quick, easy job (except for lying on your back in the footwell). I think it took me about 20 minutes in total. Might be the easiest repair I’ve ever done haha. I did this on my 2012
987.2 Cayman
, but I suspect it’s the same for a
987.1
based on a 2008 parts catalogue I looked at. The clutch switch can be found at
Suncoast Parts
,
Pelican Parts
, and
FCP Euro
.
Links:
987 Clutch Switch Replacement Video
Tools/Supplies Needed:
T10 Torx bit
Small pliers or box wrench that can fit around the Torx bit (see step 3)
New clutch switch (part #: 997.613.109.50)
Steps:
Locate the clutch switch under the dashboard above the clutch pedal. It is just above the light in the driver’s footwell. Take note of which color wire is on which terminal on the clutch switch.
It’s probably a good idea to take a picture of the switch now to note which wire goes to which terminal.
The clutch switch has markings on the housing next to each terminal labeling them 1 and 42 respectively.
Gently remove the wire sleeves on the clutch switch tabs by wiggling the wires off the terminals.
Note: on my car, the brown wire is seated on the tab closer to the driver and the yellow wire is seated on the further tab. In the video guide above, the wires were switched for him. I don’t know if it matters because the clutch switch may just be a switch closing the circuit between the wires, but I would make sure to match your car’s original orientation.
The screw holding in the clutch switch is a
[T10 Torx]
head, but there is not enough room to use a ratchet. The screw may be loose enough that you can turn it by hand with the Torx bit; but if not you may need to turn the bit using small pliers or a small box wrench. After you loosen it a bit, you can probably unscrew the rest by hand.
Remove the old clutch switch and replace it with the new one. Note that there is a small metal post that seats into the switch’s bracket, so the switch should only be able to be installed one way. Line up the post first then reinstall the Torx screw holding the switch in
[T10 Torx bit]
. Don't over-torque the screw; it only needs to be tight enough that it won’t come loose.
Replace the wire sleeves on the switch tabs, making sure to match your car’s original orientation.
Test out the new clutch switch by starting the car.
Thanks for all the info and directions. I’ve had the starting issue a couple times, but not recently. After seeing your post I thought I would replace the switch proactively. But then I saw the price. $80. 😳😳😳. Some serious
Porsche
tax.
I found it for $65
at Suncoast
. Still expensive for a tiny switch though.
Remember you can always
plug
in a spare fuse in place of the switch to get back on the road.
Then order the switch.
It's just an on/off switch, there's no polarity.
That makes sense and I kinda suspected that. Explains why in the video they were the opposite of mine.
Someone must have had this problem with my car as it will start without the clutch engaged.
I suspect the switch has been bypassed but haven't bothered to take a look at it...
If you are OLDE like me and always check nutural before starting, it's never an issue.
As a backup, I carry a 6” piece of wire with two male spade terminals in my glove box to bypass the switch in case of a failure.
I replaced my 2004 996 ignition switch before I determined that the clutch switch was the problem. I jumpered the wires for a while and then saw a post describing bending the microswitch lever as a solution. I bent the switch arm just a little and haven't had a problem since!
