Seized calliper pins

So I've started the bank holiday project I have posted about already, replacement of discs and pads all round on my C 4S. And.... I have hit a problem with both front and rear o/s callipers because the pin holding the spring plate which secures the pads will not shift despite liberal applications of penetrating oil, and a big hammer and drift. I wondered in fact if they were threaded but there is no hex or torx head and all info I have indicates these are just an interference fit. I'm wary of using too much heat due to the proximity of the piston seals And I'm also wary of too much brute force - those Brembos aren't cheap. It's a pain because the discs are both off easy as pie. I'm wondering if the professionals have a special tool to apply pressure ( other than a big hammer) but unless anyone has any bright ideas, I'm going to have to refit the callipers leaving the old pads, and have the pads replaced professionally...which would be admitting defeat so it's the last resort!

Hi, have you got any movement on the pins, ie a couple of mm? if so then some serious scraping of the pins with a file and emery cloth should get enough of the crud off them to move a bit more. its a slow process but should work, if that fails then cropping off the exposed length by the pads and getting to work with a parallel punch should shift the small bits left in the calliper. If all else fails then a small drill, though you should be able to move the small captive bits having all the force working on one at a time. Good luck.

I changed the front discs and pads last week on a 996 gt3, I also got stuck with the pin - I undid the bolt and managed to move it about 5mm before it stuck fast. After some head scratching I realised there was a shoulder along the pin that was hitting the edge of the spring, once I pushed the spring down slightly it came out easily. Possibly could also happen for the rears?

News on my progress. Having cut the pin with an angle grinder, the outside stub could be punched out. The remainder was stuck fast, and so using long drill bits, from Screwfix, I drilled a 3 mm pilot hole down the core and enlarged that progressively using a 5 mm bit first ( and still it would not budge) and then an 8mm bit which is the diameter of the tapered end of the pin. At last I was able to tap out the stub from the wheel arch end , and finally cleaned up the hole using the 8mm bit and then a Dremel with a fine grinding stone to remove some minor nicks . Cleaned it all up using brake cleaner. The calliper will now have some touching in using red caliper paint. After that has had a day or so to dry properly I will fit new disc and pad. Rear was easy, because the pin punched out after some penetrating fluid had soaked in for 48 hours. Then on to the near side which will probably give me the same challenges.

Just done pads & discs on my 4S this weekend & yes the pins were challenging....... but as Mark says plenty of scraping to get the rust build up off & punching it out the way it's supposed to come out & tapping it back in a little with even more scraping helps to free them. The rears were less of a problem & I had an assistant to depress the springs which helped & they 'flew' out. Very rewarding & saved myself ££££'s [ ] hth Paul

Well Done There is nothing better than achieving some thing like this Looks like you hard work paid off. Presume you tried heating it up - That's what the pros do. Best of luck with the other side Just imagine how much it would have cost to have it done

No heat used, just a lot of my patience..... & an old masonry bit as a punch as all my others are tapered & didn't go through the hole in the calliper far enough.....[ ]

Now on the last one - n/s front and again seized pin. I expect professional heat from an oxy torch would do the trick, a blow lamp made no difference, so again angle grinder to cut the pin, then drill out and clean up/ paint calipers - that's what I've done tonight after work - new disc is on, so then new pads and a clean up of inside of wheels before refit tomorrow night, on the road on Saturday! It'd be interesting to know if these are original discs and pads, car has 60k miles now of which 25k in my ownership so it's possible and might explain the seized pins... Anyway anybody who is like me not an expert and would like some guidance on this job, please message me.

Whenever I refit caliper pins I give them a good cleaning with a Dremel and a light application of copper grease. Allows the pad to slide easily and makes for easier removal. Cheers,

Often wondered if stainless steel pins would solve the problem, though when you look at what the calipers, pads and pins etc have to deal with i dont suppose anything would make a difference in the end.

I think Brembo would use stainless pins if they would have fitted them Can you get stainless

I used Original Porsche fitting kit, Brembo packaging & NOT stainless steel..... Only 'steal' was the price![ ]

How much was that?

About 60 quid including my PCGB discount....

I think it is worth including the task of removing , cleaning and greasing the calliper pins every year in pre winter prep. It's no more than a 10 min job per wheel and would save hassle at pad replacement time. Or getting the servicing garage to do it at service time.

What did you get for your 60.00 (What parts) For the DIYer I think its a brilliant idea. Takes longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel. Jack up car 10 minutes Remove PU 30 minutes Remove Wheels 10 minutes Slide out and clean Brake Pins Clean wheels while they are off Check and Clean Brakes and Pads Put it all back together SAY 3 hours What a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon in September Take it of the road for the Winter DONT BE BLOOY DAFT

Spring, pin & clip x 2 front & rear..... As the man at OPC said: "it's because it says BREMBO"