16 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2006 Boxster Electric Woes
Leading reported evidence
Check when the battery is fully charged
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
On the list to check when the battery is fully charged.
Leading evidence: 'Check when the battery is fully charged' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check when the battery is fully charged' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
We did the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel this weekend along with replacing all
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Car starts and runs but I need to reset the "fob" to lock/unlock.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
around 8 months ago with a known bad clutch but would start/run/kind of drive.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 2 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T165820Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So I purchased a 2006
Boxster
around 8 months ago with a known bad clutch but would start/run/kind of drive. After a new
battery
and with too many other projects I parked it and let it sit. Now when I get back to working on it, it won't start at all with a full
battery
, nothing when you turn the key.. Thinking the ignition switch went bad(the key was locked in also and needed the tool to remove), I replaced it and at least the key releases now. We did the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel this weekend along with replacing all
exhaust
flange studs as it was missing two and the remainders snapped off.
What the car does do is lock and unlock doors with the key, gauges come on when key is inserted, say KEY 2 on the dash(only have the one), and that's it. It sounds the horn if the hood is shut and you put the key in, so that's unhooked temporarily, and it has rolled the driver's window down on it's own. I have Durametric incoming to help diagnose but was looking for any other collective knowledge as I'd like to drive it this summer after a litany of other parts replacing.
How long did you let your new
battery
sit? The symptoms you mention all sound like a weak
battery
to me. Batteries in these cars don't last long when they sit for a few weeks. Mine will go dead in a couple weeks without me using the
battery
maintainer.
If it's not the
battery
- I'd be suspicious of a water damaged control module. The symptoms of windows moving on their own often point to that sort of thing..
It has set for a while. Had my brother check it after the ignition switch and he said it was 12V with a meter. I have bought a new
NOCO charger
for the
AGM battery
and it's sitting on it now, shows low......
That's something I had read also. On the list to check when the battery is fully charged.
Should have some sort of update by the weekend when "I" have time to go overmore. Durametric is in too, can't wait to play around with it but it sounds like it has less control than what I am used to with HPTuners and Holley software. I'll get this figured out, no doubt about that.
"12V" doesn't tell you enough. A car
battery
is typically "full" at 12.6V, and depending on who's chart you look at 12.0 could be 50% or <25% charge. Eg:
Car battery testing instructions
In addition, some say that this should be measured after 24h or sitting around... when the battery has stabilized fully. In the end, if you question the battery, just change it... it's not worth chasing your tail over something so easy to replace.
Battery
put on
NOCO
tender and is full charge at this point, still have a no crank/no power with key. Durametric cam in but of course with no key on power I can't read the car. Is there a way to jump power to the OBD2 connector to allow it to connect?
Well, if you take the time to read the instructions you will turn on the hazards to keep the connection live, whoops. Took screen shots of all faults on the short test, then cleared them, still no key start. Same results in no start though. I'm thinking immobilizer, may have to go in to
Porsche
and let them dial in to it.
Sorry that this isn't getting resolved quickly. Certainly let us know what happened.
You said you could get in and see many faults - what were they? Also, you said you cleared them, but I am thinking maybe there is a configuration issue as well - clearing faults won't "fix" config errors. For example, if a controller lost its mind and doesn't know what car it's in, that could prevent a start? Just guessing... but seems reasonable.
It might help if you listed the errors that you cleared, as it might give a clue on the problem...
Oh wow. One commonality - the majority of them reference power-suppply. That probably means a low voltage situation. I'm sure the Durametric lets you read what the voltage is at Terminal-30 (always on should be
battery
voltage). The other common errors are communications failures. This could mean something is wrong on the CANBUS - but more likely one or the other of: (1) One module due to low voltage is sending out spurious signals on the bus that cause the error messages in the other modules (2) Something got wet - possibly a module - and it's sending noise out over the CANBUS.
The first thing I'd do is change the
battery
and clear all the faults. On the new
battery
- leave it overnight on a 5A or so charger (it will taper down to less than 1A as the
battery
charges) so you know it's at 100% when it's installed. Batteries do have some memory effect when first put into service so you want it fully charged before it sees the system.
I would hope to see 12.6V on terminal 30, but wouldn't be surprised to see more like 12.2-12.3V. If you see under 11 that would make me really suspicious of the
battery
and of the modules faulting due to the low voltage.
Let us know what you find out.
Battery
is almost 6 months old, charged and sitting on a tender, show 13.6v with it off, should be good there.
After doing some sleuthing with a
multimeter
I found out there was no power to the ignition switch and tracing a wiring diagram it goes back to the immobilizer. Sitting and thinking, I figured out I have caused this problem. After I drove it over to my dad's to park it 6 months ago I had a new key cover to replace one held together with three different kinds of tape. What I didn't do was take the pill out of the old cover when I chucked it.
Problem of my own creation. 🤡
I called a local key place and they came out and pulled the immo and will call
Porsche
for the code to make a new one. Man do I feel like a dumbass.
We've all done this sort of thing. It might be a good idea to start looking into / saving up for a spare key. I'll be very interested if the key place can make you a key that starts the car. I rather suspect they might have issues doing that. So far no one has posted anyplace that has succeeded in making an aftermarket key that works.
Be warned with the dealer trip... that new key is going to cost a lot more than you'd expect... hopefully your aftermarket person has a trick up their sleeve!
No dealer needed.
They came to car and pulled the under seat module, took it back and called
Porsche
for the code. What I received back was the original blade in the new case I put on(new chip), another non-case style key
(cut to car) and both are coded to the car. $413 all in. Car starts and runs but I need to reset the "fob" to lock/unlock.
In other words, a done deal, starts every time.
Place that did it:
Car Computer Reprogramming | Metroplex Locksmith | Car Locksmith
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
