Ignition switch replacement?

Seems I might have this problem. First noticed that interior fan was not working (thought it was a fuse) but once I stopped I had problems removing the ignition key. Did some searches and it seems this is a common problem. The threads I read all seemed fairly old, I'm wondering if there are any updates? What about replacement part sources and p/n (some of the threads referred to VW and Audi components being the same but much cheaper, there was also reference to NAPA parts). 2003 Carrera 6spd Thanks

I don't know of any updates on procedure or advice. Do NOT buy the cheap NAPA/Car Quest/Pep Boys/etc type switches or you will be rechanging sooner than you would like. If my memory serves me people talk about the price of a good switch being in $40 range and do mention Audi/VW as a source. Never had one go bad, but read enough that I would only want change it once! Another hint I recall is don't hang every key you own on the same key ring as the Porsche key. Some have indicated the extra weight could be detrimental to switch life.

I had trouble getting key out of ignition if car was parked with steering in a bind or wheels turned. I would have to wiggle the Tiptronic or steering wheel and if that didn�t work pull forward or back a little in straight line to get the keys out. I replaced 1st the ignition switch (no change) then I replaced the whole aluminum locking frame that it all mounts to and does the locking(slightly better) Then I replaced the ignition lock cylinder that I noticed had some wear marks inside. After all this and about $600 it still does it but not as bad. That is every component involved except for the flexible shaft that connects to the Tiptronic linkage

Experiencing sticky key removal now. Will replace with pelican parts, part.

I'll likely do it next weekend as well, need to purchase the parts first. Let us know how the install goes. Are you planning any special tools, I've seen reference to flex handle screw driver? I've had a similar issue with wiggling the steering wheel for a long time so that the key could turn to start the car, was a minor irritant and didn't think much of it. Don't worry, no extra keys on the ring. Adds too much weight

My car had issues, when I first bought it, related to the switch. The seller knew it and bought a switch from an Audi dealer. About $40. I followed the Pelican tech article and swapped it out. Not too difficult. The hard part is accessing the little set screws while wedged under the dash. Fixed all but my lighting issues. A small person will have an easier time of it.

Looks like I'll try the Audi ignition switch p/n 4A0-905-849-B.

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I made this video awhile back, but it might help. Kind of a pain in the butt to get to, but not too bad. You Tube

Nice video - thanks for sharing

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I don�t believe the electric switch is your issue, it�s the entire ignition/steering wheel lock mechanism (of which the switch is attached to). It�s a known issue and the piece has been superseded by Porsche at least once or twice, maybe more. I had the same issue in my 99.

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Thank you!

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Not necessarily. Just the electrical switch can cause key removal and steering lock issues. Why not start with the easiest and least expensive option to see if that fixes the problem?

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There are numerous folks here and on other forums that have had these exact same problems that have been fixed by changing the electrical part of the ignition switch. In fact, I know one guy who carries a spare with the shorty screwdriver with the car. He has changed a few and has it down to less than one hour. I think he is a contortionist! You are correct that the whole mechanism has been updated at least once due to problems. However, my guess is the electrical part will solve this issue.

Fair enough. But my car had the switch previously replaced a few years ago and yet the slow �thunk� noise arose. Coincidence? Maybe. But a new new steering lock mechanism comes with a new switch as well. If I�m going invasive on the car, I prefer to do it once.

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Did you do this yourself? Replacing just the switch is not an invasive operation. True, the switch can be had with a new lock mechanism. Your experience is different from many here. Those of us that had issues corrected with replacement of just the electric switch will stand by our suggestion of taking the easiest path first.

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True, I have heard people report they had to change the whole "gun" as you did because of trouble. Especially in the early cars. What do you mean the "slow thunk noise?" Don't remember hearing that description before.

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I do all of my own work. I value my time spent on repairs. My car is my DD so I also place a significant value on the car�s down time. Getting stranded in a parking lot due to a misdiagnosed key issue isn�t acceptable to me. I may have spent some more money on the part, but I also know it was fixed right, once and for all. The entire assembly is a known issue and I resolved it. In addition, the OP stated that he�s occasionally had to wiggle the steering wheel which makes me suspect that is the mechanical assembly and not the electrical switch. Yes my car is a late �98 build so it had the very first iteration of the ignition lock assembly, but the switch had been previously replaced only a few years ago. The �thunk� is the noise made when you remove the ignition key. Mine was delaying in excess of 30 or more seconds after key removal. It got worse when the weather was cold. The car won�t go to sleep if that �thunk� doesn�t occur.

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Solid logic. I hope you're right about 'once and for all'. I personally have a genuine mistrust for the switch. I've replaced more than my share on Audis. My only data point for Porsche is with my own car. Much of what you describe existed on my car before the switch replacement. Clearly there are at least two possible paths here.

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True dat!

I McLubed (SailKote) my key and it definitely helped with sticky key problem. I'm still ordering switch, and will replace asap.

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I haven't shown any symptoms but I bought an extra in my first month of ownership and found that it wedged nicely under the spare tire on the drivers side. I patted myself on the back for my cleverness and foresight but you bring up a good point. I need a jewelers type screwdriver in the toolkit if I'm going to try and replace it on the road.

Switch installed, it seems that the issues have been resolved (key removal is back to normal and A/C / Internal fan now functional). I used the Audi component. Still have to get the air duct back in place today. Any hints?

That�s good to hear. Please report back if you continue to have the steering wheel wiggle issue. No clue on the duct other than brute finesse.

Oh one thing on the dash duct. Make sure the slider wheel for opening/closing the vent is open. Otherwise it will never allow the vent assembly slide back into position. You can play with that wheel to see how it affects the position of the lever arm on the side of the vent assembly. If I�m mistaken on it needing to be fully open, then try fully closed. It�s one or the other.

I'm having problems with the horizontal dust above the footwell. Will revisit today, maybe I was just tired of being contorted yesterday. The dash duct went back easily, thankfully I noticed the linkage from the slider wheel to the vent 'flap' mechanism had come loose before I re-installed

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I did too. I connected horizontal duct to vent duct as an assembly and then mounted to vent with Phillips screw. I started with just sticky key and developed into hvac and light issues. Original switch with red paint. Bentley Manual got me through in 30 minutes. ALL good now.

I got through it, I found it to be easiest to attach the horizontal duct on the door side first and then the passenger side. However your idea might be better yet "connected horizontal duct to vent duct as an assembly and then mounted to vent with Phillips screw." I'll try it should I ever have the 'pleasure' of doing this again

Looks like I may have to replace the ignition switch on my 2003 C4S. While road-tripping home last weekend I lost the AC/fan and headlights. Realized that if I rotated the key slightly back to the left after starting the car that I could get the headlights back on. Ordering one of these from Pelican Parts today -- 4A0-905-849-B-VAG. Since I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual, I'm planning to just use the Pelican article and the youtube video linked above.

The ignition switch and ignition switch lock (the Pelican article link) are not the same thing, the link you provided refers to gauge cluster removal. you don't need to do that IIRC. Try this: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ion_Switch.htm Also make sure you limber up, it was a tight squeeze for me. Good luck and be patient

Step 1: buy a 2 or 3” standard screwdriver bit. Grind it down so it will fit the slot on the ignition. About half. Step 2: put the seat all the way back. Disconnect battery. Step 3: remove vent tube. Easiest to squeeze accordion section. Suggest take a pic so you know how it gets back. step 4: place a flashlight, preferably one of those that are long, under the brake so u can see. step 5: get your head under the dash with your hand up there. Step 6: remove harness from switch. step 7: loosen set screws, knowing they have loctite on them. 2 or 3” bit is perfect. Do not remove set screws. Loosen them until switch comes out. install is reverse. I used the Audi part. first time took me 45 minutes. I can do this now in 15 minutes. I am old (50’s).

My ignition key switch also sticks a bit. Just enough that my local indy won't give me a safety check (every two years where I live) as the lights, wipers and interior fan don't come on UNLESS you turn the key back just a little bit after ignition. No big deal, I know how to make it work. When I take it to garage I leave GREAT BIG notes in the car, TAPED on the steering wheel on just how to fiddle with the key. All to no avail, they still won't pass my car. Everything else is fine. But., they have no interest in actually fixing or replacing the switch and suggest I take it to the local Porsche dealer, who also want nothing to do with an 18 year old car (I know, I know, but you've gotta live here to believe it!) I've got the little replacement switch in my garage. MAYBE I'll get to it this winter. I just finished installing a new double DIN stereo / Nav thing along with new speakers (took me DAYS to do) so am weary of dealing with little wee screws and wires with old eyes and slightly arthritic fingers, never mind the contortionist kind of positions I am only too aware I will be facing during this project. In the meantime, I'm driving a (kind of) illegal car. I don't want to get stopped by police and have to pay a ticket, or worse yet have to get the stupid car towed away which could happen if I get a cop in a bad mood, So....moral of this story? Keep your car slightly illegal so you won't drive too fast and get tickets.

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sounds like your mechanic is lazy and pretty much sucks. Its a 30min repair job. I would find another mechanic. If u cant find one post your location and maybe we can help find u one.

I had this problem just last week. First symptom was that it became difficult to remove the key. Then putting the key into the ignition became a problem, it felt like there were little rocks or stones in there, really had to force it more than felt right. Finally, the electrics wouldn't work after the car was running. Headlights, seat heaters, AC fans, etc all dead. Anyway, took it to my indy and they had it fixed in an hour and just replaced the electrical component of the starter switch. Everything is good now, even the action of putting the key in and out.

To those kind enough to reply; In SOME fairness to the indy (in retrospect) they are absolutely backlogged with geezers like me who have finally got around to dusting off their old Beemers, Benzes and Porschies and dragging them to the garage in order to relive the joy of their first independent rear suspension two door euro coupe. My car runs beautifully (rear wheel bearing was replaced after about 5 years of annoying grinding) and a safety check has never been a priority for me (our cops are delightfully lazy here and only investigate the odd murder, if and when they happen) so my garage shooed me away citing priority geezer sports car work. Fair enough. And....I'm just procrastinating / lacking in ambition. I'll manipulate myself under the dash and change the little electrical component myself. I've had the new switch for months!

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The only issue with your approach is that these switches get worse. If you don't fix it you'll be lucky if it's stuck in your garage and not stranded somewhere. I had to do this repair in my kids' high school parking lot in 40 degree weather. Not fun. All you need is the new switch, a headlamp, a jeweler's screwdriver, and the ability to contort yourself under the dash. It is not the funnest job, but its not the hardest either.

Just finished my ignition switch replacement. Y'all were right -- the job is quick and fairly easy, but you definitely need to do some contorting. Of note, the jewelers screwdriver I had was a little too long to fit in the space so I ended up using one of my mini glasses screwdrivers to do the job. I found another video showing how to do this job that I think is a little more straightforward -- You Tube Here's the after photo of the bad ignition switch:

Hello, I'm currently tackling ignition switch replacement right now. I'm 6'1" and 175lbs and having some issues fitting into position to tackle this project. It seems that if I position my head to see what's going on, my hand and arm is cramped, limiting motion. Any tips on specific moving sequence to help get me into place? Also, I did manage to loosen the screw nearest to me, but have not been successful on the screw farthest away, on the other side of the cylinder. I cannot get in viewing position of the screw to line it up. Going by feel using the screw bit (handle won't fit), I can sometimes get the blade seated, but can't get enough torque with the bit to loosen the screw. Sounds like a lot of folks were successful here. Some tips on getting this done would be much appreciated!

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Glad I'm short 5'6" lol You are never going to see the other set screw. It all has to be done by feel unfortunately. I suspect that this is the first time it is being changed and you are struggling to break the locktite. It has been a while since I did this. I found the jewellers screwdrivers useless. I ground down a flat bit which then I could feel when it was in the slot. I would suggest going to the hardware store and buying a hexagonal 1" and 2" long flat head driver that is hexagonal, grind it down to fit the slot and then try to turn it. Something like this: Mastercraft Bit Wrench Set, 29-pc Canadian Tire May also be useful as it is small and may give you the leverage need it to break the locktite. This will not work to remove the set screw but may be useful to break the locktite

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Thanks for the advice. I did not quite understand this. Is this a bit that fits into a socket, or you're suggesting a short driver that I file the blade down to fit the screw slot? Thanks!

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I should have been clearer. Just a bit you can file or grind down. I find the hexagonal ones, which most of them are any way give you a bit better grip. And, it is very awkward to do. I have sausage fingers. If you were closer, I'd say come on by. Once you get the feel for it, it is really easy, just a royal pain in the a$$. Thinks about how hard it was to break the locktite on the one that was accessible. The other one is just as hard, but more awkward. You can also try taking a pic of it to see if you can get a better angle or to see if there is lock tite in the slot making it harder to do.

Get yourself a offset rachet with a bit holder and then a flathead number 2 and you don't need to modify anything it fits. Here is an example of one: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/kincrome-kincrome-10-piece-mini-ratchet-and-bit-set/587945.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuMuRBhCJARIsAHXdnqN3etyplu6tzQHGY8x9hcD1Ue4iZE 1g21daRr81zaMvZYvQGtN75XUaAiLcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

6'1" 200 lbs with wide shoulders here and I agree that this job SUCKS when you're a big guy. I managed to get it done with lots of contortions and neck cramps. Basically what I would do is lay my back on the door jamb, and push with my feet so that my head and right shoulder went under the steering wheel and my right arm and shoulder went under the clutch and brake pedal, and I'd just kind of reach back up between the two pedal arms and shine my headlight in the general direction and figure out where my hand was supposed to be and all that good stuff. Then as the other poster mentioned, in order to actually articulate my arm enough to twist I had to pull myself back out of the car a bit and hold myself up with my other arm while I twisted with my screwdriver. THE LUCKY THING is you only have to give it a twist or two on each screw and the switch will come out. You don't need to remove the screw by any means. The advice I can give is go to the hardware store and get yourself the smallest, stubbiest screwdriver you can find. I have the old-school Kobalt acrylic-handled screwdriver set and it came with a tiny flathead screwdriver that was perfect for this job. Amazon Amazon (Tiny red one on the bottom right) Second advice is consider taking the side air vent ducting off as well. This procedure is described at around 4:15 of this ignition switch video, as the video creator was having a similar issue to you with the top screw: You Tube

It's a breeze to do this on a Tiptronic car . Do take the air duct off which makes it so much easier.

No doubt about it. Take the side air vent off.

Good advice here with taking a photo and positioning as well as the duct and video. Much appreciated. Will give it a go this weekend.