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YOUR RESEARCHclanking noise c2 02 front
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Adjust too
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Getting front and rear done at same time just in case, and also decided it was decent time to have the geometry/alignment checked and adjusted too..
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Richard,
I know but first cause of clunk was airbox (whoever took it last time) managed to loose rubber gromets (or whatever they are called). Got couple from OPC and replaced them (at grand cost of 0.76£ each).
Back to garage to get droplink thingies. Richard do you have part numbers (both front and rear) for 02 C2
Regards
Voya - only joking! - forgot the smiley.
Anti-Roll Bar Drop Links for C2, 2000-
Front:
996.343.069.03 (Left)
996.343.070.03 (Right)
Rear:
996.333.069.03 (Left and Right)
The other possibility causing a clonk at the front might be a strut top mounting bearing. Part Number: 997.343.018.00 (Yes, that is 997, and they are the same for both sides) which are about £50 each, but it is a much longer job.
I would check the drop links first. A small amount of play in the end joints can make a lot of noise, especially at low speed over speed bumps etc.
Richard, once again thanks for the post. You are right, the 'clonking sound' is only there if driving at slow speed 10-15 over potholes and irregularities . On the other hand if you drive over speed bumps there is no noise at all.
Regards Voya
Is it defo. the front? Mine does this too, but stops when I pull the handbrake slightly- I assume its some loose cables or something and can probably be adjusted.
Hi,
Mine does this too. I replaced my drop links (really easy job) and it stopped the clonking on speed bumps but still clatters on potholes at slow speeds.
Richard, you think this is the strut bearings ?
Stu
Is it coming from the rear? If so, could be the same as Robert. Or it might be the shock absorber top mount. Another possibility is the anti-roll bar rubber mounting bushes. The anti-roll bar corrodes a bit and the rust acts like a grinding paste and acually wears down the anti-roll bar. You can often stop the rattling by undoing the clamps, slide the bush out the way, clean it up, and apply a generous dollop of grease when reassembling. Fronts aren't as badly affected as they don't have the heat of the engine.
You can sometimes hear a top mount by bouncing up and down on the car, but not always. Other than that, it's a process of swapping bits until it disappears. Not very helpful I'm afraid.
My 996 C4 is going in this week to get it's drop link things replaced...
Mine was clonking lightly over small bumps, potholes etc at low speed, and the dealer popped it onto ramp and spotted them.
Am paying about £35 +vat for them each, plus fitting, which they said was not a big job.
Getting front and rear done at same time just in case, and also decided it was decent time to have the geometry/alignment checked and adjusted too..
regards
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