PSE retrofit success for '06 Cayman S

I just completed a full Porsche Sport Exhaust ( PSE ) retrofit for my ' 06 Cayman S . This was an option I always wanted, and I stumbled on a great deal on Ebay for a set of lightly used PSE mufflers. I also wanted to have the on/off functionality, so I found a way to make the electronics work using the factory PSE button. I learned a lot along the way and figured I would share in case someone else wishes to do the same. The information below applies to all '05 and '06 987.1 Caymans /Boxsters. The PSE became available as an option for the 2007 model year and up. The official retrofit instructions clearly indicate that the retrofit is only for 2007 and up Caymans /Boxsters. This is absolutely true if trying to install the system as it would have been from the factory. The exception to this is if the car is pre-2007 but has Sport Chrono because the existing Sport Chrono button will control the PSE . This scenario has been covered by Berty987's article located here. Many people have installed only the PSE mufflers on pre-2007 987.1 cars and not bothered with the vacuum lines and electronics. This is fine and leaves the system permanently in "Sport" or loud mode. It is also possible to hookup the system with an aftermarket on/off button instead of the factory PSE button under the HVAC controls. I wanted to maintain the on/off functionality, but wanted to use the factory button instead of an aftermarket button. I spent a lot of time studying all of the 987 and 997 retrofit instructions, relevant wiring diagrams, and doing other research. I thought I had figured out how to make the electronics function properly, so I bought all of the required parts and set to work. First I tried hooking up the electronics as they would be from the factory. I found that the button and the PSE vacuum solenoid operated as intended, but the LED on the button was permanently on no matter what. I have a Durametric Pro and tried enabling and disabling the PSE option with no effect. I brought the car to the local dealer and they had the same results. They thought it was an issue with their PIWIS software that was unable to update the cars DME. They were going to get in touch with the engineers in Germany and see what they could find out. Since I figured this is really low priority for them, I decided to abandon the attempt at using the DME to control the PSE and figured out a different and better way (after a ton of research, trial and error, and frustration). I could have just disconnected the wire to the LED and settled for the LED not functioning at all, but this was unacceptable to me, and I did not want the cutoff which occurs between 20-50 mph depending on RPM and also at around 3000 RPM when cruising around 70 mph. The difficulty with using the factory PSE button is that it is a momentary switch, therefore is just sends a short +12V impulse to the DME which in turn opens or closes the ground for the vacuum solenoid to turn on or off the PSE. This is why the aftermarket button solution uses an on/off latching switch which either completes or disconnects the circuit to the PSE vacuum solenoid. I knew that to make the factory button work, I needed a latching relay which would close the circuit to the solenoid with one push, and then open it again with another push. I struggled to find what I needed, but eventually found a little component online that works as a latching relay. I bought it, hooked everything up, and it works perfectly! I now have full control of the PSE using only the factory button located below the HVAC controls, the LED on the button functions as intended, there is no speed/RPM cutoff, and the system resets to quiet mode whenever the car is turned off regardless of what mode it was left in. The following is a list of required parts: -Sport exhaust button module. This replaces the entire module, so there is a different part number depending on if you car has PASM active suspension or not. 1x 997.613.129 Sport exhaust system button (for vehicles without PASM) or 1x 997.613.131 Sport exhaust system button (for vehicles with PASM) -If you bought your system used like me, then you should already have the following: 1x 987.113.512 Rear muffler, left 1x 987.113.511 Rear muffler, right 2x 000.043.300 Clip (clamp that holds the exhaust tips to the mufflers) 1x 987.111.220 Clamp (connects the upper pipes of the two mufflers together) 2x 997.111.113 Seal for rear muffler/catalytic converter flange (you may want to replace these instead of reusing your old ones) -Everything listed below from Porsche's official PSE retrofit instructions will be needed, except for the "electric changeover valve" that they specify. 1x 987.612.905 Electric wire harness 4x 999.591.312 Hose clip for rear muffler strut 4x 999.651.204 Hose clip for rear muffler holder 1x 999.651.286 Hose clip (for mounting on transmission) 2x 928.573.727 Distributing piece, 3-way (Rubber Y Fitting) 2x 928.574.717 Protective tube, bent (connects the vacuum hoses to the changeover valve.) 1x 996.111.989 Electric change-over valve holder 1x 999.181.852 Tekalan hose 1x 900.378.035 Hex head bolt 1x 900.380.015 Hex nut 2x 999.512.361 Hose clamp 2x 999.181.295 Hose, encased in steel (this is the stainless steel braided vacuum hose that connects to the exhaust valve on each muffler side. Only needed if your mufflers did not come with these hoses.) Other items needed that are not listed in the retrofit instructions: 1x 0004320799 Electric change over valve. Electric change over valve. This valve has 3 ports with both normally closed and normally open capability whereas the regular valve only has 2 ports and only normally closed capability. Update as of 2022: I think like the latest change over valve (solenoid valve) part number from Porsche is 7PP.906.283.C. 1x 920180B Electrical connector. Electrical connector. This is the connector for the change over valve. It seems to be a typical Bosch plug, so there are probably other part numbers that would work the same. -DEI 611T. (This is the latching relay component and can be bought online. I got mine from eBay for around $20.) -Greddy Profec Air Filter, part # 15900011. (This is a little filter which fits onto the atmospheric port on the vacuum solenoid to keep dirt from clogging the valve.) -Vacuum Tubing Connectors, part # Dorman 47430. (Used to connect the filter to the solenoid valve. I bought these from Pepboys.) -18 AWG GXL wire, Red and Black. (This is to wire up the vacuum solenoid valve in the engine bay.) -18 AWG normal automotive wire. (This is to supply power for the DEI 611T. I bought a spool of this from Pepboys.) -Miscellaneous electrical crimp terminals, butt connectors, inline fuse holders, heat shrink tubing, zip-ties, etc. I located the DEI 611T at the rear fuse panel (left side of rear trunk behind carpet). This required running a switched +12V power wire from the front fuse panel to the rear as well as the two wires from the PSE button. I did this by routing all of these wires under the center console, behind the firewall carpet, under the trim on the driver's side of the engine cover, and then to the rear fuse panel. I used a 10' clear vinyl tube from Home Depot to protect the wires between the rear of the center console and the rear fuse panel. There are other ways to wire up the system, and the DEI 611T can be located elsewhere, but I liked the rear fuse panel area for making my electrical connections so I went with that. There was an unused open fuse terminal with constant +12V power in the rear fuse panel which I used to supply power for the solenoid valve. The DEI 611T turns off when the car turns off and opens the circuit to the solenoid valve, so there is no risk of killing the battery. Attached is a wiring diagram that I made showing all of the required connections between the PSE button, solenoid valve, and DEI 611T. Hopefully this helps at least one other person. View attachment PSE Wiring Diagram 2005-2006 987.1.pdf

Should make this into an Article.

Thank you, delman 1012, for you very enlightening article. Here I am, in July of 2022, with a few problems installing a PSE in my 2006 Cayman S with the Sports Chrono Plus option. Suncoast sent the system to my mechanic, who has placed sereral of these systems. First, the system sent was missing the vccuum lines which were suposed to be on both ends of the muffler. Still waiting for those parts. A puzzling problem still exists: my mechanic cannot find the "plug" which should be in the engine compartment to complete the "activation" connections to my "SPORT" button on the console. Might you have any advice fro where this connector is located? Suncoast has not been helpful at all with this problem. Any direction which youu could give me will be gretly appreciated.

If your 987.1 is a 2005 or 2006, then I don’t think it came with the plug in the engine compartment, even if it has Sports Chrono . Your mechanic will need to add the plug and the wiring to it from the DME . Refer to the Berty987 post that I linked above. I updated the link so it should take you there now. Note that Berty987 added an extra bypass switch which you may or may not want. If you add the wiring to the DME , then I believe your existing Sports Chrono button will also turn on/off PSE without any further programming. Or if you want complete independent control of PSE with the extra button, then you should follow my writeup. I believe you can purchase a version of the button panel with seperate Sport Chrono and PSE buttons.

Added part numbers and links to the original post.

Hey @delman thanks for sharing your skills wth us really appreciate it. I have followed you're wiring diagram and everything works. Only issue i have is the PSE button works the opposite way. It lights up in non sports mode...is there a simple way to rectify this? Only difference I've done is the I didn't use a constant live I made it ignition live on all the power sources... Thanks in advance..😎👍

Check all the dip switch positions on the 611T. Assuming your unit is identical to mine, then all dip switches should be Off. If switch 2 is set to On, then it would cause the PSE button led to be backwards as you describe. If that fixes your led issue, but then your exhaust valve opening/closing is backwards, then you will also need to flip your vacuum lines around on the solenoid valve.

@delman1012 Thanks buddy.. Just tried flipping dip switch 2 down to "on" and this hasn't made any difference. I tried switching the vacume lines around and the exhaust remains closed. (Silent) whilst lines were switched over I switched dip switch 2 on and off....no difference. .. I'm not using the genuine porsche 3 port control valve. I'm using the 2 port control valve that came with my kit...maybe that's the issue? Apart from that everything is identical. Thanks again buddy

With all the dip switches set to off, the LED should be off when you start the car. Then when you press the button, the LED should turn on. If you turn the car off while the LED is still on, the LED should be off next time you start the car. You don’t need to start the engine to test this, you can just turn the key to on. You should also be able to hear a faint click from the solenoid valve when you press the button. If that isn’t working correctly for you, then I think either you have some wires switched compared to my diagram, or your 611T functions different then mine. After you get the LED functioning correctly, then if the exhaust is loud when the LED is off, that means you need a different solenoid valve.

Got it..I need a different solenoid valve...you the man...cheer matey

Happy to help. The solenoid valve linked in my original post should work If you can find it. Looks like the current part number from Porsche is 7PP.906.283.C. Your local dealer should be able to source it.

The part numbers with ECS links are amazing but since I am a little cheap I found this website New spare parts for Porsche - Accessories - Rose Passion that I saved ~$200 on the parts. Shipped 2 days with DHL. Hopefully everything arrives well. Just thought I would share if someone else is looking for more economical solutions.

@delman1012 can I be a pain and ask how you connected the vacume lines to the solenoid with 3 ports? Mine only has 2. One to the inlet and one to the exhausts which is later split towards the 2 boxes.. Thanks again

Take a look at my diagram linked at the bottom of my original post. It shows the orientation of the three ports and what is connected to each. I assume your 2 port solenoid has a cap adjacent to the electrical connection. The solenoid valves are actually the same internally, just one has a third port instead of the cap . That cap functions as the vacuum bleed. The side port is always to be connected to the exhaust valves. With the 2 port solenoid, when the solenoid is de-energized, the bottom port is blocked off, and the side port is open to the vacuum bleed. When the solenoid is energized, the bleed is blocked off and the side port is open to the bottom port. If you try to use the 2 port solenoid with my wiring diagram, then when the LED is off, there will be no vacuum going to the exhaust valves and the exhaust will be loud which is opposite of what we want. If you swap the hoses around so the vacuum supply is connected to the side port, then you will create a vacuum leak through the vacuum bleed cap when the valve is de-energized, and the exhaust valves will always be stuck closed after energizing the solenoid once because the built up vacuum will be trapped in the exhaust valves and hose. You need the 3 port solenoid to make this work. The top port connects to the vacuum supply hose, the bottom port is the vacuum bleed which needs a filter as described in the original post, and the side port is connected to the hose that splits to the exhaust valves.

@delman1012 thanks dude..I've posted on my Instagram the installation if you'd like to see it..my Instagram is dubber.dad Thanks again man...

@delman1012 Hi there, this is extremely helpful as I'm about to embark on this same journey with my 2007 Cayman. Any way you could share the installation instructions/guide? I can't seem to find it anywhere online.

Here is the 987.1 PSE retrofit instructions.

Do you know if there are any official instructions for a 987.2 retrofit? I am going down this path and want things to be "factory" as much as possible.

This is some great information and I'm happy that you've updated the information after posting it. Thanks so much!

A little late in my response, but thank you very much for your contributions here! Looking forward to getting this installed on my 987.