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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHQuickJack engine / transmission drop
Reported or suspected cause
ground clearance due
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause
My only issue is ground Clearance due to the height of the hydraulic table.
Leading evidence: 'ground clearance due' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'ground clearance due' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check channel out' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I checked our jackstands and they are not on the recall.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Several here have used the QJ to drop their engines.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used Steve�s method last year when using the SUV adapters to drop the transmission.
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Suggestion
If you want to use the double connector SUV adapters You will need to raise the car then lower tires onto the blocks to get the SUV double adapters set.
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Suspected cause
It takes probably a lot more time to get the sump up around 25" with liftbars than quick jacks, but if you don't need to raise the vehicle often the ease of set up and storage seems to favor liftbars.
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I ordered one over Memorial Day weekend. For my engine drops I had the jack stands at 22". Figure stacking the provided blocks and hockey pucks gets me to that same height.
You can drop the engine and trans with a quick jack obviously, it’s all dependent on the collapsed height of the table lift the motor is on. if it’s super low profile, you’re good. If it’s kinda bulky, like mine the only issue you’ll run into is clearance when rolling the motor out from underneath the car. Honestly the tub is so light after the drop you can lift the rear end up by hand, onto the motor and drag it out after. The quick jack is fantastic, love mine. In my opinion the motor is a pain to drop using any lift that you can’t get above chest height. I don’t have the space for that, so the quick jack was the next best option for me.
We didn't get QuickJack because it didn't give enough lift and was difficult to put into position and store. Liftbars seem to give enough lift for engine drop and are easy to store.
Excellent question. I just bought one for a clutch replacement. My friend, mechanic, and I did not feel safe working under the car on jack stands. Even with the wheels on there isn't much clearance for a body if the car would fall. Then figure in the Harbor Freight jack stand collapse and we really didn't want to use that method. I watch the youtube videos and think it's kind of scary.
I'm making a series of videos on my youtube channel about the lift and replacing the clutch in the next few weeks. The quick lift should be here the end of next week. Stay in touch and I'll let you know what we think.
Thanks guys!
I’m going to get one. ( I’ve already decided that)
It would come in handy for all kinds of automotive work, not just my personal cars.
Being able to lift client cars with it and not having to use jack stands would be worth the price.
If it would work for a Porsche tranny drop, that would be nice.
If I could also drop an engine, that would be an another added bonus.
I will probably replace my 35 year old jack stands soon too.
My son recently graduated from college, so when he moves out I‘ll give him the old jack stands and spare jack.
I’ll consider getting lift bars too.
Hard to justify the cost for lift bars right now since they’re only good for a 996.
Currently I work on more older Japanese and domestic vehicles than anything else.
Awesome, I�m looking forward to the videos!
I won�t be using mine until July.
I promised to take a break from doing car work during June.
Shhhhh...I snuck in one vehicle yesterday morning before she woke up.
(Tested an AOS and cleared the Airbag light)
But I worked extra hard later that day doing some yard work for her to make up for it...even though she still doesn�t know.
^^^Why is the jack off center? It should be in the center of the liftbar where the blue tape is - or is it just there for safety (and you didn't actually lift at that point)... In any case, FYI - I needed 25.5" between the sump plate and the garage floor to drop my engine using the Harbor Freight 500lb lift table (should have gotten the 1000lb one
). ** Also, another FYI - check those jack stands you're using - there's a safety recall on a bunch of 'em...
If you can't trust your jack stands then what is the point? I wouldn't trust harbor freight ones either though. I get German made and TUV approved Rodcraft from Germany. It isn't really all that expensive, especially if you can get a couple people together to split the shipping costs down a bit.
Tex, there was a guy recently on here that did an engine or transmission drop with Quickjacks. He used the SUV adaptor to give him the extra height, although blocks of wood would probably be a reasonable substitute. I love mine and use them all the time.
Hello Dporto, the jack pad has to be way off center because of vehicle's center of gravity. If placed at middle of liftbar it only raises front wheels off the ground
. And for safety when liftbar is lowered onto jackstands we leave jacks in place with slight upwards pressure, this gives 6 points of support for vehicle.
Thanks for the sump measurement to ground for engine drop. When we took that picture our sump was 22" inches off the ground, and jackstands had 4" more of totally safe range so they will be sufficient when we need to drop engine. But the jacks were near the end of their safe lifting range, so we'll probably construct a wood extension on the jack pad 3" to 4" high that will also capture the liftbar to ensure the jackpad never slips off it as the jack trolleys along the ground. Also we heard the bumper and a piece of the body can be removed to give more clearance for engine. I checked our jackstands and they are not on the recall.
It takes probably a lot more time to get the sump up around 25" with liftbars than quick jacks, but if you don't need to raise the vehicle often the ease of set up and storage seems to favor liftbars.
I really kick myself for not picking one of these up at Costco when they were on sale last fall for 799 or 899, whatever it was. Seems like they are getting more and more popular. I was actually going to pick one up in the spring to make wheels of detailing easier and then covid happened and I didn't work for 3 months lol.
You can always add a second layer of saftey by sticking jack stands under the front end of the quickjacks. If they are sitting on the saftey locks and they somehow loose pressure and the safety locks fail the jack stands can stop them on the way down.
I'm necro-bumping this thread since I literally just bought the QuickJack set up over the MaxJack. The 2-post is just too big for a 2-car garage and the wife doesn't seem to keen on maneuvering around the post while I have my 996 in the air. After speaking with
@TexSquirrel
about his QJ experience I decided to also buy it, the SUV/Truck adapters AS WELL as 4X of these:
Amazon
Amazon
for the initial boost up so that the adapters will fit. I liked these because I can remove the ramp part so the QJ will fit. What bothers me is, based on the pictures, the car appears to be unstable-looking sitting on those adapters. I agree that a set of jack stands would probably be a good idea as a secondary disaster avoidance. What was your overall experience with them configured that way? Was it safe? My use case is for powertrain removal.
Any vehicle lifting arrangement except a professional grade 2 or 4-post lift professionally installed, a jack stand should support the corner of each side before a body part is under those thousands of pounds. Our liftbar system has six points of support before anyone is under car.
Anybody have any experience with the PowerBuilt u-shape floor jack? (
https://www.powerbuilt.com/collectio...ack-floor-jack
)
It seems to work in conjunction with standard jackstands. The only problem I forsee it the use of hockey pucks between the jackstand and the lifitng point.
Quickjack should be coming out with a new model ( TL ) that lifts a little higher by about 3.25 inches for a total of 24.25 inches, that should minimize the spacers needed for engine removal . Just got off of the phone with them, their saying it looks like the end of summer before they become available.
I have liftbars and quick jacks with the SUV adapters. Liftbars are nice. But take long time to jack SAFELY - they will rotate and slip out if the jack angle is too steep. Lots of back and forth maneuvering. I bought the QJ system and like it a lot so far. I have not double stacked the SUV adapters yet as in the original picture. I couldn�t figure out how to create the required space. But, if you look at the picture again you will notice cement blocks next to the tires. If you want to use the double connector SUV adapters You will need to raise the car then lower tires onto the blocks to get the SUV double adapters set. Then raise again. I have the adapters and they are quite solid - male and female ends are well constructed. I am more comfortable under QJ than under jack stands. Fwiw.
The older jack stands are great.
But when I decided to replace mine, HF had gone to the lower quality jack stands.
They didn't look safe to me and a week or so later they were recalled.
I considered ESCO jack stands, but then decided to purchase a QuickJack since I'd assembled one with a friend.
I'm happy with my QuickJack, but also see the value of a good quality set of jack stand and a lift bar.
Whatever works is great, as long as it is also safe!
Just got my QJ up and running this weekend and love the system (after I got all the leaky fittings wrapped with tape instead of the liquid thread they supplied). No real issues other than that and they worked evenly, no twerking needed. I don't care for the hydr. tank venting (you have to remember to open it while using and then remember to close it when done so you don't dump ATF all over). The directions mentioned something like "if you have the self venting cap, you don't need to open/close it).
I am going to write them and see if I can get that vent cap. Otherwise, love it!
Do you roll your unit around the shop? I�ve never closed my vent valve (well actually I did once, and forgot nearly collapsing the tank), and move mine regularly...never spilt a drop.
Check my channel out. I use them often and dropped the engine out of my 996. You'll need the SUV adapters. The new QJ raises the car even higher now too!
I used Steve�s method last year when using the SUV adapters to drop the transmission. Worked great! Though I failed to notice he also had the jack point pucks on top of the SUV adapter which provides much needed extra inch of clearance. I got the tranny out w/o the pucks but there was a bit of underbelly scraping involved when moving the tranny on a HF trans scissor jack. Tranny needs to be removed from the front of car if a floor jack is used to support the engine.
If you decided to invest in or fabricate a engine support bar then you can bypass the floor jack needed to support the engine which will allow you to slide tranny out the rear and give yourself a lot more room to work.
I actually plan on using a hydraulic table which by my measurements will be long enough to support both engine and transmission. My only issue is ground Clearance due to the height of the hydraulic table.
Thanks for the input.
I can�t find the cheap HF table anywhere in Houston so I bought an atv jack instead. Worked perfectly. I used it in my engine removal video. Now I use it to hold my beer.
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