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YOUR RESEARCHSuspension Refresh Options - Stick with B4?
Leading reported evidence
Replace four of mine
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Replaced all four of mine with B4s this past fall.
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Suggestion
Nothing against coilovers just super pricey, and the only advantage over shocks designed for a lower car + springs is the fact you can adjust the ride height, is that worth the price difference?
Leading evidence: 'Replace four of mine' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust ride height, is' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've read a lot of older threads (B4 vs B6/8, and various coilovers, ROW when it was $1500), but since options have changed, I wanted to get people's perspectives.
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Suggestion
Nothing against coilovers just super pricey, and the only advantage over shocks designed for a lower car + springs is the fact you can adjust the ride height, is that worth the price difference?
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Suggestion
Still, at 59k miles my entire suspension is original, the shock charge is still strong, no leaks, no noises and I won't be replacing any of it til needed.
Replace struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense
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Suggestion · Original poster
They said it was probably best to replace the struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense because of the labor) and quoted around $1,700 - $2K per axle using OE B4 and keeping OE springs.
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Adjust ride height, is
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Nothing against coilovers just super pricey, and the only advantage over shocks designed for a lower car + springs is the fact you can adjust the ride height, is that worth the price difference?
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Suggestion
Still, at 59k miles my entire suspension is original, the shock charge is still strong, no leaks, no noises and I won't be replacing any of it til needed.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've read a lot of older threads (B4 vs B6/8, and various coilovers, ROW when it was $1500), but since options have changed, I wanted to get people's perspectives.
Replace struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion · Original poster
They said it was probably best to replace the struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense because of the labor) and quoted around $1,700 - $2K per axle using OE B4 and keeping OE springs.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
They said it was probably best to replace the struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense because of the labor) and quoted around $1,700 - $2K per axle using OE B4 and keeping OE springs.
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19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T105141Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Found out my bump stops are in a bad state and stopped by my indy to talk about options.
They said it was probably best to replace the struts instead of the bump stops (makes sense because of the labor) and quoted around $1,700 - $2K per axle using OE B4 and keeping OE springs.
I wasn't expecting to spend $2-4K on a suspension refresh, but since I'll be spending the money, what are some other options to explore? I'm not tracking the car and only driving on weekends, occasionally commute, and am far from "experienced spirited" driving at this point.
I don't want to go too aggressive and sacrifice comfort, but also don't want to "wish I spent that extra money when I did the suspension". I've read a lot of older threads (B4 vs B6/8, and various coilovers, ROW when it was $1500), but since options have changed, I wanted to get people's perspectives.
Appreciate the thoughts.
Koni shocks are a good/great option. I refreshed my entire 996 with them along with OEM control arms and bushings. I have a couple of videos I made on the topic.
You Tube
+1 for Koni, but the B6 and B8 options are really great too + if you get the B8 they are specifically designed for a lowered vehicle (lowers with HR or eibach springs)
There will be tons of great feedback and lots of good suggestions for coilovers, but if you've already decided you're just replacing shocks/struts, I would suggest you consider B6 instead of B4. They're even cheaper, generally, than the B4. I got mine from Rock Auto.
I�m not against coilovers�may decide to it if the extra money is worth it in the long term.
Would also need to see what my Indy would charge for the parts of I went that route.
I have the Bilstein coilovers on mine and they are amazing BUT remember once you set up your ride height properly to the wheels you want etc... coil overs are basically done as far as value added to a standard shock + springs set up. Luckily our car has plenty of OEM wheel options so if you are considering lowering it, getting B8s + HR springs will do amazing things, you just wont have the ability to lower the car additionally to get a perfect fit but you can get mighty close with wheel and tire sizes once you have done that.
Nothing against coilovers just super pricey, and the only advantage over shocks designed for a lower car + springs is the fact you can adjust the ride height, is that worth the price difference?
i really cant believe the insane pricing on a r and r for struts. I could r and r a bumpstop in less then an hour per shock. Im all for u changing if they r bad but its considerably more expensive. Also Feel c/o r around $1450 for all 4. Looks like b4s r almost $1100, i would not even consider putting them back in for the cost difference.
https://fealsuspensionstore.com/feal...rsche-996-2wd/
Thanks for the insight. The prices seemed to be really high for the job.
I�m going to look around and see if there are other options for places to do suspension work.
Is there anything special about these suspensions or can anyone who specializes in suspensions do the work?
Don't forget about damping adjustment. When just going to dinner or driving around I set them to about 3-4, when I autocross I crank them up to 7-8, a very big difference. The coilovers (mine PSS10's) set to 3-4 give a smooth ride over pot holes and uneven pavement. They have been much better than my original suspension in every way, and adjustable. I am very glad I went the way I did. At least for me it was one of the easiest jobs I have done to the car yet. Anyone with decent suspension skills should be able to do it, there's no magic in the 996 suspension, just get a good alignment after.
Appreciate that�I�m going to call some places tomorrow. I got a couple of recommendations from a buddy.
The idea being able to adjust is nice, as it gives options for me down the road if I do decide to track or drive more aggressively.
Front and rear r 3 bolts on top and one on the bottom. They can be removed with hand tools and a jack although some have had issues with corosion on the front lower bolt. U need a spring compressor to swap the shocks or bumps. A shop will have a air or hydro powered compressor but old school manual units that r rented for free from the auto parts store will work.
Replaced all four of mine with B4s this past fall. Concur that doing the work yourself is the way to go. Rent the spring compressor at any auto parts store. Save yourself a bunch of $ and know that it was done right�.
It depends on whether you want an exact ride height. If so, get the coilovers. I wanted to get rid of wheel gap while fixing the handling. My coilovers are very compliant and handle great as well.
My front bumps were done for, mostly gone. I was able to remove just the shock top bolt and compress the shock shaft enough below the top hat to squeeze a new bump in between the coils and over the shaft. My rears are a little better but I won't be able to do the same short cut as the front on those small coils. Still, at 59k miles my entire suspension is original, the shock charge is still strong, no leaks, no noises and I won't be replacing any of it til needed. If it's your bumps that are bad but the rest is good, just do the bumps.
Well, I called the place that had done an alignment on the car in the past - they specialize in suspension work. Labor front and back is $800 and I can supply my own parts.
I'll make more calls, but I'm thinking this will be the way to go. Now to determine which route to go and what to replace! I'm going to pull together some parts lists based on other threads and start to run the numbers on the option.
Appreciate the insight.
You may want to look into Feal coilovers, like De Jeeper said. They have a very good rep on Rennlist and other Porsche forums. I went with the PSS10's because I could get them in 3 days and I had everything apart. Good luck with what ever you choose.
So is DIY out of the question? It would save quite a bit on labor. That's what I did and then spent 200 to have front and rear aligned at a local euro shop.
