07 Cayman S TPC Turbo Kit - Engine beeped and blinked for about 10 secs. No codes though.

The car had multiple misfire codes so I went ahead and installed new spark plugs. NGK #2667 BKR7EIX gapped them at .028”. Cleared codes and went for a spirited drive. The car ran fine and on the way home, I heard a beep and the CEL light blinked for about 10 secs then went away. Drove her carefully home close by and scanned for codes. Showed no codes. I had the dash read the oil level meter and it showed about half full! I just ordered an oil change kit as well as an air old separator to be safe. Do you guys know what that CEL meant? I hope I didn't damage anything with the low oil level =( I also have new set of BERU coil packs to install. Any ideas or inputs are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Turbo on a non-turbo motor 🤦‍♂️ did you install this yourself? Buy it that way? So no codes? Possibly a misfire, or knock sensor.. are the ecu’s reflashed for that brand of kit? Your probably running 5psi max, if it’s more your really a$king for problems and I’m no joking here…. So explain some details. I’ve turbocharged many cars in my life so I know and understand…. If it were my car…. You know what I’m going to say 🚘 oil: does TPC say how much more oil you’ll need to add to be on the happy full mark?

TPC would be happy to talk with you about the codes, HA HA. Change the oil and cut open the oil filter to see if there are any engine parts in it. No engine parts, then plugs, coils, AOS and new oil. Let us know what happened. .

I can’t believe how many of these kits I’m seeing lately… where is TPC in this equation!?!? They should be better at CS here

I bought the car with the kit already installed. I'm just going through the car to do what I can to get it sorted out and running well. I've reached out to them and they directed me towards the right plugs and coils to get. Car only have cyl misfires on cyl 1, 3, and 6. I'm waiting on the bosch plugs and beru coil packs to come in to install them and see if the codes clear up.

Yeah, good plan. I am waiting for the oil change to come in and I will be inspecting for those things when I change the oil. AOS is also ordered so will inspect that area too. Keep posted guys. Thanks for the replies.

I wish you best of luck… doesn’t change the fact that I don’t like turbos on these higher compression flat six motors… just be careful

IMO, they really aren't good any any motors without commensurate changes to everything else in the lower and perhaps even conrods, pistons and more.

Agree… the motors have to first be built with lower compression.. if the turbo route is your quest, just go buy a 996/997/991 motor. In the long run it’ll be cheaper…. That’s just me tho I’m curious on what intake temps are. Mid engine cars have a harder time with ventilation vs rear motors

Regarding the turbo, OP says he bought it this way, I hope "this way" doesn't incliude a known flaw previous to the sale.

Unfortunately, yes. I took a chance since it was priced fairly decent. So hope it turns out ok fingers crossed

You wrote: "I had the dash read the oil level meter and it showed about half full! I just ordered an oil change kit as well as an air old separator to be safe".. It is ok to have the oil level at the middle.. I would leave it right there because when you fill it up to the Max mark you are risking to flood the AOS

It needs or should be on the level… don’t mess with that one… so I’m asking how much more oil does the motor hold since adding the turbo? You have lines, a turbo.. and maybe an oil cooler?? You can’t do an oil change at oem specification and expect the level to be at the top…

I would look under your car at the oil pan and see if its original by the color of the aluminum and the motor. If there is a 3/4 inch extension all the way around the oil pan, then you have a 10 qt capability. As GT3 states, you might also have an oil cooler, which may add a few more mls of oil. Check with TPC though as they can let you know what brand of oil is best to protect their work and as if the oil cooler needs any special oil valve opened to empty the old oil out.

Ok. Just installed oem plugs and oem coils. Seems a bit better but still hiccups at idle warm up. Haven’t driven car yet. I will tomorrow but still showing misfire cyl 1 and 6. 🤬

Hiccup, so it hesitates? Have you ever check those injectors? How about the fuel pump? MAP sensor? big question, how much boost? Probably need to stick An A/F ratio guage…. I’m really guessing here without knowing your A/F. Be careful if you drive that right now… no kidding

My last car was a 987.2 CS w/ TPC turbo kit. I bought an AutoGage boost gauge but sold the car before installing it. I'll make you a great deal on it if you want one.

The car already has a defi boost gauge. Thanks.

So UPDATE... Car seems to just misfire during idle. No CEL at all today but the misfire shows in the scanners live data. Car drives perfectly fine. What's up with the oil light meter on this thing?!?! Measurement is all over the place. Sometimes, 1 bar only, Sometimes at the middle. Today, check engine oil level light came on when I pumped some fresh 93 octane. I didn't want to risk it so just bought 2 qt at the gas station to be safe. Then when I started the car, it struggled to turn over, low oil pressure light came on and shut off. I tried again and it started to idle ok with no warning. Drove it carefully home a few miles and then when I got home, I checked the oil level and the meter says full bars! How do you go from no oil and pressure in the engine to full with just 2 qt? I'm going to change oil tonight but this thing is making me all confused....

Stock setups don't usually bounce around the level that much. My guess is that this has to do with the TPC setup. The car was built with a certain range for the oil level, and I expect that's no longer valid or appropriate for the TPC changes. Still, FWIW, the stock setup on a 987.2 says it's about 0.42qt per bar... so if you put in 2 quarts, that certainly seems like WAY too much. Again, not knowing what TPC did, we are just guessing... but if you did that to a stocker, then you're likely well into overfill and are risking damage to the AOS (new or old). It sounds to me like this is not something you have the desire or ability to work on, which is fine. But it's going to be an expensive proposition. Like others said, if you really want to keep it, I'd pull the TPC stuff off, as it's a big risk without having the support you need. Alternatively, if you can find a shop willing to tackle it with this stuff, then have at it. I imagine most won't want to do this... and if they do, it's going to be expensive simply because it's going to take a good deal of time to figure out what's going on, without proper support from TPC. I'm coming into this blind - does TPC even exist anymore? Can you contact them for help at all? From what I have read "between the lines" they aren't around?

TPC still exist as far as I know. I do reach out to them for some questions. Sometimes they reply, sometimes they don't. I didn't get a chance to change oil tonight but I will tomorrow. That way, we can make sure that the right amount of oil will be in there. I am still waiting to hear back from TPC if the oil capacity has changed from stock. For now, I'll just put in the stock amount.

Well, I wouldn't "put in the stock amount" either. I would certainly make sure there is enough on the level, but you will just have to be more careful with the process... because we don't know what your actual capacity is. I might start with stock amount, and then add about 1/4 quart at a time, while watching the level. You may have to wait some time between fill and measurement... and maybe even run the engine? I don't remember how your car works with oil measurements (my 987.2 requires the engine to be warmed up and running). If it was me, being the engineer I am, I would start with stock, take a measurement, wait some time, take another one, etc... see if it changes with time. Then, assuming its at some reasonable level, I'd also test and see if running the engine affects it. Basically, do the science experiment to figure it all out.

The other way is to take a picture of your sump. We know what a standard one looks like and if TPC change to a deeper sump, we can see that. As long as your oil gauge on the dash works, just put in the 8.5 qts, includes oil filter, then read the gauge. Cut up the oil filter and put a very bright lite to the folds as laying flat to see any metal particules. You will become very good at cutting up the old filters.

Just changed oil. The oil sump looks stock. So just filled it up increments until I got the oil bar just shy of full where there’s 1 empty bar left but right at the top arrow. here’s what’s happening. Car idles with a bit of hiccup (sometimes cel would come on with misfire codes, usually cyl 1 and 6) and runs perfectly fine and strong. However, during driving, CEL would blink about 10 times and go away. This happened a few times on way back after test driving car after oil change. Pull into garage and check codes now more cyl are misfiring codes and also o2 sensor showing up too. Code 2231 short signal bank 1 sensor 1 and the usual 030x code for cyl misfire. Should I start looking into other things like o2 sensor? Are the cats bad?

When you changed plugs, did you notice any build up on plugs for 1 & 6 cylinders. Just wondering if its the injectors for those cylinders that have gotten their spray patterns changed, maybe due to the installation as they are port injectors.

Yeah some plugs were fouled. I don't quite remember which cyl it was but it might the 6 cyl. Injectors might be next to look into. I'm trying to find a good indy shop here to trouble shoot this for me. Any link to how to replace injectors in these engines?

If you can determine if the injector lines are not kinked due to the special TPC turbo intake manifold. Maybe they used the OEM one? A picture of the top of the motor would help.

That oil gauge might never be accurate because of the turbo and all the additional oil lines… again, you better watch that one and try to get a base line…. It’ll never be accurate until it sits over night and mine has even changed after 2 days… I would have those injectors looked at. Also those pintal caps get gunked up and you could also be sucking air past those rubber injector grommets which would definitely cause a misfire… this is all process of elimination, something I’ve done 1000 times… 700hp rotary and MR2…. It was always something man… the reason I don’t mess with maintenance items anymore, I’m just tired of it

Yeah. I'm leaning towards injectors. I also have been working on many tuner cars since mid 2000s. I have had many cars from japanese turbo cars to european turbo cars. I haven't had a car since 2018 because I was tired of working on cars. But now I got the itch again hence the current car. I am quickly reminded the pain of working on the cars because of things like these. You never get to enjoy the car but just spend so much time and money fixing them.....it never ends =/ I'm going to get the car looked at a local shop near me. I really just want to start enjoying the car so hopefully they can pinpoint it and just fix it. I'll keep you guys update.

That’s why I don’t work on them much anymore.. it’s not worth my time.. I haven’t had an import for 15yrs… well guess I had my V6 MR2 5yrs ago. I’ve always had two hobby cars… usually a Porsche and the hobby hobby car… Anyway, injectors, good place to start… fuel pump too… Good thing you bring up imports tho… because you could probably buy 10-15 used motors for the price of a Porsche rebuild… food for thought

I'm in Orlando, FL. Driver's Choice seems to be the go to place here but they said they don't work on non-oem cars.

UPDATE.... I changed the drive belt today with OEM PORSCHE belt. The old one was also OEM PORSCHE but not sure if it has been changed yet. Regardless, I haven't gotten any misfire codes! I was reading other people's misfiring situation and one post came about how they have seen many cars witth the same issue as mine be the drive belt. Where they were putting on non oem parts and causing issues. In this case, it was oem but maybe it was time for a much needed replacement. I'm happy to finally gotten rid of the misfire codes. I'll update if anything changes.