How Much Battery Drain Is Normal? Traced 0.65A (650 milliamps) to Fuse D10 (Radio, CDR30 w/Bose, no CD Changer)

What is a normal voltage loss / amperage draw you see in your vehicles? Below are my situation's details (in format that adds context), followed by why I'm asking. Format: Car, electrical draw / conditions, suspected components 2010 Cayman S with brand-new battery , CDR-30 and Bose (no CD changer) shows 0.65 amps (650 milliamp draw*) with all fuses in, which kills my battery in a few days. Car entered Sleep1 state 40 min after driving, all doors closed. Unsure if leaving car 7 days or longer would drop into deeper Sleep 2 state some have mentioned, but a few days of 0.65 amp draw per hour could likely exhaust the battery before entering Sleep 2 state. Removed the D10 fuse from passenger footwell and amperage drops to 0.01 amps (10 milliamp draw), close to "normal" ranges noted for modern 2005+ cars (< 0.05 amp / 50 milliamp). With D10 fuse removed (voltmeter showing 0.01 amp draw), the battery voltage was 12.85 volts (after waiting 40 min for Sleep 1 state after a drive.) 24 hours later, battery voltage dropped to 12.78 volts (0.07 volts/day loss with car in sleep mode). *Amp draw measured with voltmeter wired in between negative battery terminal and the car's negative cable (removed from battery terminal, so the voltmeter completes the circuit). Specific Example & Context A week ago I noticed my CDR30 Bose (no CD changer or satellite) continued playing music after removing key and opening door. Normal operation is the music stops & unit shuts off when I start pulling on the interior door handle (to exit the car). I turned the radio off (long press on volume). Next time I drove the car, radio turned on for the drive and it turned off normally when I exited the car. But when I came back to the car a few days later, battery was entirely dead. I then replaced battery (it was 6 yrs old) and tested amperage drain by inserting ammeter between negative terminal and negative cable - shows 2.8 amps constant while car's "awake" and then trends down to 0.65 amp after 20 - 40 minutes with all doors closed. Recalling my CDR-30's odd behavior, I chose fuse D10 as my most suspect circuit that might be draining battery. I removed fuse D10 and that dropped my amp draw from 2.8 amps to 0.01 to 0.03 amps. Is my CDR-30 the cause of the draw, or the Bose amp, or some switch in the door-opening / window-dropping process that might be errant? If the CDR-30 is the cause, would replacing it with an aftermarket name-brand (Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, etc.) unit resolve the amperage leak? If I did replace the CDR-30 with an aftermarket unit, would that reduce the current draw in sleep state down below 0.65 amps to something closer to normal (< 0.04 amp / 40 milliamp?) Welcome recommendations on CDR-30 replacements that work with the Bose speakers/amp setup (likely need a MOST optical converter) and turn-key harness adaptors. I'm fine with the sound the old CDR-30 with Bose provided, so I'd like to keep things as close to stock as possible unless you recommend a solid amp & speaker setup that's a worthy improvement. Other specs on the car FWIW are that it's a 2010 Cayman S Manual 6 spd, sports seats, Bi-Xenon, single automatic temp control, heated seats. Thanks in advance for your help.

I think it's clear that the amp or radio or both are not turning off as they should. I would suspect the door switch as opposed to the audio units. Time to take that door card off and inspect/test the switch.

On my 2010 987.2 CS with Bose CDR-30 , I noted current draw to be 0.65 amps with car dormant for 45 min, all doors closed but not locked, key out of ignition, hood and trunk latched, wires run from negative cable and negative batt post up to my voltmeter /ammeter. If I unplug fuse D10 in the driver's footwell, the amperage draw drops to 0.02 amps (car dormant 45 min, doors closed, etc.) That seems to be the biggest voltage leak in the car, so I'd like to change it out (unless there are other things in that fuse D10's circuit that could be using voltage) I'm curious if .65 amp (with CDR-30 as described above) is normal drainage, or if people note a higher or lower drainage for their CDR-30 equipped Porsches. Reason for asking is two weeks ago I noted an irregularity with my radio staying on after removing the key and pulling the interior door handle to open. Normally, the radio turns off at key removal (had this car since 2014). I pushed & held the volume button to turn it off, but when I came back to the car after a week (on Battery Tender , as usual), the 5 year old Interstate battery was dead. Now I'm considering getting rid of the CDR-30 (the #1 current draw in my car is fuse D10 leading to the Bose CDR-30 ) and replacing it. I'm fine pulling the deck as I had to remove the panels a few times during Numeric shifter install & adjustments. But given the giant PITA it's rumored to be to change from Bose (and resulting Office Space fax bashing scene afterward I'm sure...) I welcome any ideas & links to reasonable "tried & true" options that give me Bluetooth (I've been using a $15 adapter plugged into the Aux port since 2014) like a subtler predecessor of the Sony-MEX-XB100BT in our S2000 (add a small bin underneath to cover the hole?) or a full-screen something with Android Auto (ideally wireless, although I use the Motorola Wireless Adapter in our Ridgeline just fine).

I should also note I tested the "sleep" mode of the car and found that the current draw is 0.65 amps with the D10 fuse in after having let the car sit for an hour with doors, frunk, trunk closed (not locked) and no key in ignition. That seems a bit high vs. my other cars and vs. this one if I simply remove the D10 fuse... so also tested it dormant for an hour, with the D10 fuse removed - current draw is 0.02 amp. The CDR-30 is a Bose system (thus PITA to change out, most shops recommend swapping its Bose amp out too). I have no CD changer or satellite on the CDR-30 . I may check into how hard it'd be to pull a harness from the Bose amp to check current draw there. Also welcome folks' ideas on what their current draw is in these various scenarios, as 0.65 amp seems pretty wasteful and could be improved (for longer-term parking at airport as an example) if replacing the Porsche CDR-30 with an aftermarket head unit (and maybe amp, if the adapter to Bose isn't a great solution) would reduce my regular current draw down to .03 amps.

While 0.65A might seem like a small draw - that much of a draw will run the battery down in a day or two. You really want to see numbers like you did when you removed fuse D10. You might take a looksee at: Outstanding Tech Contribution! - Replacing PCM3.1 with... That company also has a MOST fiber adaptor for the unit and a very reasonable price. It's still early times on this unit as to what it can and can't do - so you may want to wait until some of the questions I asked in that thread are answered. It's basically supposed to be plug-and-play from the installation descriptions people have done. The other thing is - I'm going to combine this thread with the one you had already on your battery-draw issue, since this posting really is a further extension of what you'd done in that thread. HANG-ON.. will be moving this... done.

I don't know the answers to your questions. I basically have the same issues and have been using a battery tender .(first ctek then noco ). Here is a possible replacement unit but I do not know if it will resolve the current draw issues: Porsche Classic Radio (997/987)