prep for track?

I plan doing several track events a year and a friend of mine recommends upgrading to polyurethane bushings for suspension and motor mounts. I spoke to my mechanic and he says the ride would be very tough. But I dont consider it very soft and comfortable as it is right now)) and I dont drive the car too often. Would you recommend doing it? Also, I might want upgrading suspension within a year or 2, would it make more sense replacing bushings then? Right now I have bilsteins. Thanks.

I don't race but what I read over and over is put your money into instructions. If you already have experience, you can ignore.

Drive what you have until you are fast enough to need better suspension bits for better lap times. If your stock suspension is still fine for daily drives, it probably is good enough for some initial DEs or AutoX. Then, later, you will have a great idea about what level of investment you’re ready to make and what parts need a level-up. For now, fresh brake fluid and some good track/street pads and some decent rubber should get you through several fun track outings. Trust me, you will get all kinds of advise at the track.

Not suspension related, but I do recommend reading this: https://lnengineering.com/education/...96-engine.html

I ran my first hpde day in early march. I would say if u dont have a lot of track experience u wont be anywhere close to out driving a stock 996. Make sure the suspension and wheel bearings are tight, have good tires and fresh brakes. Change the brake fluid if is more then a few years old. Just enjoy the ride, practice what the instructor teaches and speed will come. I was amazed at how much better i was driving by the 4th session.

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+1. several events a year is not nearly enough to justify the harshness of nearly solid suspension and drivetrain mounts. I have the Wevo semi-solid engine mount in my Boxster and it drastically increased NVH over the stock mount. suspension bushings would be even tougher.

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I would recommend doing a track day or 2 and listing up the weaknesses (if any) on your car. Listen to your instructors and experienced friends. Then consider if training or parts are your priority. Other than instruction, I would consider upgrading as follows...Engine protection (as mentioned above), brake fluid, tires, spacers (if needed), alignment, brake pads, then suspension. Everyone is different, this was just my plan. Instruction is ongoing at the same time, and I am still way off my instructor�s time in my car. Hoping to shave some time off this year!

guys, thanks, I did track events before but on different car. I did some prep for the car already, including IMS, deep sump and low temp thermostat. I also plan replacing brake fluid and adding center radiator. I just wanted to see if anyone had installed polyurethane bushings on daily driver and could tell how it feels? Of course, since it gonna be first track event on this specific car, I just first plan to adapt and to enjoy the ride)))

I have the poly pushing for the control arm links and really like the feel. I went with stock engine mounts since it is my daily driver. I installed some of the Rennline motor mounts for someone who daily drives his 996. He went with the softest inserts, and then brought his car back a couple of weeks later and I installed the hardest inserts. He is very happy with them.

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Most polyurethane bushings will bind up the suspension movement.

I plan installing center radiator soon. Any specific brand is recommended? Thanks.

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/9863RDRAD.html

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When I did mine last year, the pre-made kits cost $750 from Suncoast. I used the PET to get the part numbers and made my own kit for $394. I bought new hoses, bolts, and rubber mounts from Pelican Parts, but chose to buy used metal retaining frames, rubber air duct, and radiator from DC Automotive. I figured the metal retaining frames and air duct would pretty much match the age of my car. The radiator was probably the largest gamble, but I pressure tested it and it was in excellent shape. I’ve put about 12,000 miles on it and it’s still working great. Below is my breakdown a year ago: This is for my 996.2 with Aerokit bumper, YMMV. (Check the PET to be certain!) Porsche 996 Center Radiator Parts Numbers: Pricing from http://www.dcautocatalog.com/ & http://www.pelicanparts.com/ 996-106-037-51 Radiator (PET Page 47, #1) $145 DC 996-504-487-02 Retaining Frame (PET Page 47, #2) $40 DC 996-504-485-02 Retaining Frame (PET Page 47, #3) $40 DC 4x 930-113-430-00 Rubber Mounting (PET Page 47, #4) $32 DC 2x 900-378-036-09 Hexagon-head bolt M6x12 (PET Page 47, #5) $6 DC $ 1.50 each at PelicanParts 90037803601 2x 999-507-550-02 Speed Nut M6 (PET Page 47, #6) $8 at PelicanParts 99950755001 4x 900-378-074-09 Hexagon-head bolt M8x16 (PET Page 47, #7) $12 DC $6 at Pelican Parts 900-378-074-01-OEM 4x 999-591-869-02 Speed Nut M8 (PET Page 47, #8) $12 DC $11 at Pelican Parts 999-591-869-01-OEM 996-575-141-04 Rubber Air Duct Radiator Centre (PET Page 47, #9) $45 DC 996-106-901-00 Screw Plug (PET Page 47, #10) $4 DC $3 at Pelican Parts 996-106-901-00-M6 996-106-665-57 Hose supply with 1 connection radiator centre L (PET Page 45, #8) $33 DC $35 at Pelican Parts 996-106-665-58-M203 996-106-666-55 Hose supply with 1 connection radiator centre R (PET Page 45, #9) $33 DC $24 at Pelican Parts 996-106-666-56-M100 2x 999-512-499-00 Hose Clamp 32-50 (PET Page 45, #10) $20 DC $3.50 at PelicanParts HC32509-M130 4x 999-512-551-00 Hose Clamp 36x12 Total for make-it-yourself kit: $394 (63% of PP cost, 52% of SC) Pelican Parts Kit: $623.75 Suncoast Kit: $749.95

I just checked, and as expected the prices have gone up, except for DC. You can get a radiator from them for just $125 now. (I’m tempted to buy a spare at that price!) You could buy 4 of them for the price of a new radiator. If you want new, Suncoast will likely be the cheapest. If you’re willing to buy new & used, you’ll save enough money to pay for a track day, at least.

Honestly, there is no reason to change to polyurethane bushings in a street car that will see track events....even if several events per year. The focus should be learning to drive on a track and all the skills that go with it, including understanding how to read and interpret the feedback of your steering, throttle, braking inputs. Making modifications too early just mask or alter your understanding of the cars and how to properly drive. People think they need to upgrade brakes, tires, suspension, etc as preparation for their 1st track event and that is a waste of money and distracts the new driver on what is important and that is learning to drive safely and properly on a track. It takes some time and skill development before you are outdriving the capabilities of a stock Porsche. A completely stock Porsche will carry you just fine through many events and seasons as you come up the learning curve before even touching the car and at that point, the first mods would arguably to improve braking. My completely stripped out, track dedicated 996 rides on stock rubber bushing components in the control arms. Put your money towards a helmet, keeping your car well maintained and DE registration fees.

IMO, it�ll be fine. The harshness will only be incrementally different. You�ll double up on labor doing bushings and suspension serially. I�d wait and do it all together. suspension will make a huge difference on track. When I had PPS9 I ended up putting everything close to full stiff and leaving it there. You can put PSS9 on full soft and get as good a ride as factory. Maybe even softer. -td

Brake fluid flush Brake pads Decent tires Rebalancing wheels Fresh wheel alignment Check and recheck everything Be safe, have fun

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Ohh can you please share details on your 996? If I missed it, my apologies!

I was in your situation a couple of years ago. I have tracked my car at Road Atlanta several times which has a long high speed sweeping right hander (Turn 12) which is perfect for oil starvation. Prior to tracking, I installed the LN Engineering 2 quart deep sump kit along with the Sump Guard Plate. Flushed the brakes with Castrol SRF. Installed new Meyle rotors and Textar pads. The rotors and pads are the stock stuff you would run on the street, but per my instructor, it's all I need. He did a 30 minute session at the limit with me as the passenger. The brakes held up just fine with no significant fade. He said when the pads are worn, replace with new rotors and pads. After my first track day, it was apparent my suspension was worn out. I replaced everything (all new components was not much more expensive than just replacing bushings). Most components were stock Meyle, along with RSS rear lower control arms for more camber adjustment. I also had one rear wheel bearing that was going bad so I replaced both rear wheel bearings. I bought a third radiator kit, but haven't installed it yet. Even on hot days, I haven't had issues with coolant temperatures. I am probably forgetting a few things. There is good advice in previous posts. Unless you have a lot of track experience, the car is more capable than you are. And yes, if you turn it too hard on a tight turn, the rear end can pass the front end. Ask me how I know (this is where the sump guard saves the oil sump when you leave the track).

Instead of adding a third rad to your 20yr old system u can upgrade the 2 u have and increase cooling with csf units. I got mine for $400 each shipped so shop around. https://lnengineering.com/products/c...s.html?limit=8