Hard Shifting Into First and Second

2007 Cayman S - 6 speed - 77K miles. When car is cold, getting hard shifting into 1st and 2nd. Back out of garage, going into 1st takes a lot of effort. The 1 to 2 shift also takes a lot of effort. At the stop sign, going back into 1st, the same thing. No issues with 2->3, 3->4 and so on. After driving about 5 miles, the shifting goes back to normal. As I bought the car used, no idea if shifter cables have been replaced. Clutch was replaced at Porsche dealer right before I got the car (so about 20K on the new clutch). Any ideas?

If it completely goes away 100% when warmed up? I’d be checking the fluid levels and all the shift linkage. If it was the synchronizers in the manual transmission, the phenomenon should not completely disappear once the car is warm. I do have to add first and reverse synchronizers take the most abuse, so hopefully it’s not that one of them is beginning to go.

The most obvious thing is the transmission fluid. Replace the transmission fluid. It degrades with time and causes cold shifts to get harder. That is the most obvious thing to do. If the cables were off, you would experience issues hot or cold. I recently replaced the fluid in my 2022 Cayman for the same reason and sent in for analysis. They found moisture in the fluid. The new fluid made cold shifting better. You probably have 18 year old fluid in that gearbox. Even the modern 718 fluid is supposed to be good for 10 years, not 18. Since you bought it used and don't know the history possibly, you should change it to be sure.

Definitely agree that the fluid should be changed, most likely a major factor in the shifting difficulty. And even if it isn’t, it’s a low cost maintenance item that is probably long overdue anyway. But being as the problem is temperature related, and the shift cables are run right over the top of the engine, could they be a contributing factor in the shifting problem? I would imagine some stiffness would be present when cold, but eases up when warmed by the engine bay. And if I recall, isn’t there a rather severe bend in one of the cables in the 6-speed? If the fluid change doesn’t solve the problem, I would look into the cables next . Others who have replaced the cables have reported smoother, softer shifts.

I will perform the fluid change. Any special brand? Are friction modifiers needed?

As suggested above, I would first replace the fluids (gearbox/clutch fluid), using the Porsche transmission oil on the transaxle and the Pentosin approved fluid on the clutch, since the clutch and the brakes share the same system, get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder and service both. Afterwards you could advise how does the shifting improved, and take it from there. IF the synchros on the gearbox need to be replaced, there are shops that specialize on these like California Motorsports (CMS) in Lake Havazu, AZ they have decent pricing and an awesome customer service californiamotorsports.net PS: I bought a large ice chest on Walmart for about $50 and use it to ship the gearbox, you only have to cut a couple of notches inside to clear the bellhousing tabs .

FWIW, sounds like a "cable / shifter" alignment issue and I did this....https://youtu.be/etqu_6y6x_g?si=YPSuN5hpUrCcCnjS Also changed the tranny fluids (Redline 75W90 NS), clutch / brake fluids...

That was going to be the first thing I suggested as well. Before doing anything else, get the green Porsche shifter alignment tool and make sure the cables are properly adjusted. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU9X7.html The other stuff (gear oil, clutch hydraulics) are worth checking, but there's no reason those would specifically impact only 1 & 2.

I don't think it is the cable/shifter alignment. How could it be? And I also will say that the green plastic tool is unnecessary when installing or adjusting shifter cables. It only serves to set the fore/aft position of the shifter rod, which may or may not be exactly where an individual might prefer. Without it, one can choose one's preferred position as long as it allows full range of motion of the selector cable. (The left/right shifter alignment is not adjustable; it is held by springs. One would have to be very intentional to set the pre-selector cable wrong.)

I would have to agree with your view on the plastic alignment tool not being necessary, in most cases. Having just installed the NUMERIC shifter, I read many articles and watched several vids on the process before my install. I did not use the alignment tool when doing mine because it seems that since the shifter was new, there was no slop or play in the shifter rod. Its springs kept it upright and plumb, and in a ‘neutral’ orientation. However, an older shifter assembly, having possibly weaker springs, may benefit from the alignment tool if the shift rod has any looseness or play in it due to older, weaker springs keeping it from snapping back into a ‘neutral’ position. And for the low cost of the green plastic tool it may make any adjustments easier and accurate, but they can be done without it.

Anyway, other stuff is still possible, of course, but most of it doesn't seem logical given the symptoms are only on 1-2. Failing shift cable: yeah, it's the fore-aft cable that wears and breaks, but why only 1-2? The cable makes the same motion for 3-4 and 5-6 Transmission fluid: again, why only 1-2? When you're at a stop and push down the clutch pedal to shift into first, the synchronizers aren't really doing much at that point, so I can't see it being the synchros or fluid Clutch dragging (hydraulics, mechanical failure): again, why only 1/2? I guess those two synchros could be more worn, so if the clutch were dragging you'd notice it there first? But not sure if that would actually happen Diagnostic questions: -Are you having any difficulty shifting into reverse? With a linkage or shifter centering issue I'd expect to see problems there before the 1-2 gate, because that's way to the left on the 6-speed -Do you have the issue only when the car is running, or is it difficult to shift into 1-2 when cold even with the engine off? If the latter that rules out stuff like fluid or synchronizers -While at a stop and idling (and when it's having the issue) hold down the clutch pedal for 5-10 seconds and then shift into first, second, or reverse. The wait lets the gears fully spin down. Does it shift easy when you do that, or is it the same?

I’m following this conversation closely. I don’t have the same issue exactly. But a similar one. When I’m on track, I rarely go into second gear. But I’ve tried to do that a few times and it won’t downshift. A couple facts. 1). So far I’ve only done this with right hand turns. I’m not sure if it would be a problem on a left hand turn. 2). My car shifts into second dine in normal street driving. 3). When the car is cold and I’ve backed out of the garage, it is a bit tighter getting into first gear. Other than that, it goes into first gear perfectly fine. Not trying to hijack this thread. But it made me wonder if my problem might have some similarities. One thing I will be changing in the offseason is transmission mounts. They are original and I can see the rubber has some dry rot.

Transmission and/or engine mount wear is definitely a possibility.

Good one, that could definitely mess up the linkage baseline setting, and at least for PorscheGreg would explain it happening with right hand turns. If that's the case, might be able to see or feel the shifter moving slightly as the mounts move? It shouldn't move at all in normal driving.

Rather a common issue on some BMW 6 speed transmissions from the 2000's.. the 5 speed didn't have the issue. It was bad enough on my 2003 M3 that when the trans fluid was cold, if I came to a stop shortly after starting the car and put it in neutral waiting for an intermidable traffic light, I'd have to put it into 2nd gear and then downshift into 1st. Had to get the gears moving and the synchronizers spinning. The "fix" for this was a thinner fluid, or even an automatic transmission fluid. Downside of that - increased gear noise when travelling next to a jersey barrier. Can't say if there is a useable thinner fluid for a Porsche . The situation is complicated by the differential living in the transmission case and sharing the oil. GL5 is fairly thick stuff, especially when cold. The actual transmission might be fine with a thinner oil (something from RedLine or another aftermarket vendor of boutique oils), but I'd be concerned about the differential, particularly if you have a limited-slip diff installed.

The thing that keeps coming to my head, is the comments from the OP that the smoothness of selecting certain gears, changed whenever the car was cold or warm (if I understood correctly) lol..

The tool isn't absolutely necessary but it ensures you get it dead-on, and if there's any question it's a good thing to verify. I can't comment on the 718 assembly but I can assure you I've done a ton on the 987 shifter assembly (and the rest of the linkage), and being off center can mess things up. As an example, my Ben Auto shifter doesn't work with the green guide so I had to eyeball it. First try I got it a bit too far to the left, IIRC, and it popped out of second on me while driving. So that's an important thing to check, given a lot of the other things being listed here don't seem like they'd be limited to 1 & 2 specifically. If you're not sure of the differences maybe stick to the 718 forum because it is not the same part.

Anyway, OP if you're still here, try the stuff I listed in post #12 and report back with results. If you want to check the alignment and have access to a 3D printer here's a model of the tool for $7, cheaper and faster than ordering one: Porsche 911 BOXSTER Shift Cable Alignment Installation Tool 3d model 3d model of Porsche shifter alignment tool. Similar to OE 00072196191. Works on 996, 997 and Bosxter 986 and 987. Please google OE number above if you are unsure about fitment. Green tool in pictures is OE porsche (not included). Black one is printed model with same critical measurements but... cults3d.com

This is not an uncommon thing. My 2005 Boxster base , 5 speed does the same thing as it gets colder outside, and I have heard of others with the same issue. When it warms up after driving a few minutes, all good. I change the transmission fluid, and that helped some. I have found when you come to a stop, double-clutching helps get into first gear easier, or shifting to 2nd, when stopped, then 1st.

Can we clarify what “cold” means? In 3 seasons my 07 cayman S shifts fine hot or cold. In winter it’s tough to get it into first without driving it a little bit first. I assume that’s normal.

With the short shifter - less leverage. My 2006 Cayman S is a little stiff going into 1st when cold. Always; selecting reverse takes a “man’s arm”! (When I test drove it I couldn’t get reverse and female owner just said I wasn’t trying hard enough- I didn’t want to force it!) After it’s warm - a couple of minutes - it’s delightful.

I only have it happen in the winter. Somewhere around 40 F or below.

It really shouldn't, and I've got a 6-speed with a short shifter so I'd know. I would suggest verifying the shifter alignment. What you're describing can be a symptom of the cable lengths not being set correctly to properly center the shift lever.