Garage Lift

I hope you folks don't consider this off topic. I'm considering a garage lift, probably 4 post so I can store another car in the garage someday as well. What are some things to look out for, and is it necessary to anchor it to the concrete?

Lots of info and discussion on this subject on Garage Journal http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=278944

Recently discussed quite a bit in the 928 forum. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/900259-guys-with-4-post-car-lifts-in-their-garages-i-have-questions.html

I have two of them in a 3 car garage. Bought them back in 2008. Got the extra tall models, which I would not recommend because you can't put on the casters and roll them out into the driveway to clean out the garage. Other than that, I love them. Paid just under $2,000 each from Greg Smith Equipment. Shipped to my driveway and assembled them myself along with a buddy. They have one part that is 440 lbs. You will need a brute squad to position that piece (we used about 6 boys from the local high school football team). The other pieces are 2-person moveable. No need to anchor them. I don't even think anchoring them is even recommended because they come with casters so they can be moved. If I were doing it again, I would get one 4-poster and one 2-post lift. The 2-post lifts are better for most maintenance.

i second going with greg smith. i would say do not get their lightest duty one OR the truck one.

I've been looking into this myself for a new house under construction. Actually I'm building a house out of a Morton space building. I'll be going with a BackyardBuddy lift. http://backyardbuddy.com/ It is one of the more expensive ones but has a lot of features available. Even the high lift ones can be moved via casters with a car on it, in the lowered position of course.

Planning new 3 wide tandem garage but squeezed 4 in for this winter. In floor Sizzor lift in addition to 4 post for storage, I need workspace too.

Thanks, helpful comments, I was aware of Greg Smith and Bendpak, and I'll check out Backyard Buddy as well. Sounds like folks are comfortable with a freestanding lift if made well and there does not seem to be a need for rewiring and 220v. I like the mechanical locking mechanisms rather than separate pneumatic locks. Anyone with experience assembling these, seems like most show photos of an engine lift (which I don't have) because some parts are very heavy. Assembly instructions seem to be straightforward but often filled with underline and bold cautions to be sure to double check "....", seems like there are opportunities to make mistakes because we've never done it before.

+1 for Bendpak; have two in my three car garage. You can order with a 110 power pack.

Gear - They aren't that hard to put together. Just take your time. As mentioned earlier, there is one big, heavy part: it is the runner/tread that has the hydraulic cylinder installed underneath it. IIRC, the weight was 440 pounds. Because it is a huge part, it it easy to get 6 or 8 or more guys to grab on at once and move it into position. FWIW, and I am sure the other retailers are similar, the customer service from Greg Smith has been great. I called them last year about a very minor issue with mine, which was 6 years after I bought them. Problem solved immediately. Agree with ALE on 110v vs 220. The only difference is the speed the lift rises. I never feel the need for quicker raising - it takes maybe, at most, two minutes to raise the car to full height (I have never timed it). I like it to go about that pace so I can monitor the process. I have a lot of kid stuff and bikes and a lawnmower lift hanging from the walls and ceiling, so I like to watch that nothing inadvertently gets lifted along with the car and that I can stop it at the exact spot I want. I worked at my uncle's garage as a kid and the hydraulic lift he had was lightning fast, which actually caused problems and made it more dangerous.

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For you guys with Bendpak 4 post lifts which specific model do you have as I see they offer 2 different HD-9 variations in standard length. HD-9 (wide/std height), HD-9ST (narrow/std height). Considering a purchase as well and not sure if the narrower HD-9ST would be a mistake.

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That Bimmer belongs in the driveway. lol

Having gone through this myself my first suggestion would be to go to Greg Smith's site (or Bendpak or whoever you decide on) and print out the actual dimensions of the lift and it's 4 posts. In my case I used 4 fiber tubes for the upright posts and taped together pieces of corrugated sheets to replicate the main platform. When you lay things out and set the uprights into position make sure you are happy with where things sit and whether or not there is enough room leftover to get around it. I know guys who have realized their dream of a garage lift only to be disgusted at the lack of space to get around in their garages once they were set up. Good Luck..........

Great! I was thinking of doing a "template" as well and appreciate the advice on the speed of the 120v models. I called BackyardBuddy today and they are pricy, double the other brands at about $4600, for those of you that have these and other brands, is it worth it to buy the BackyardBuddy?

I have an Atlas from Greg Smith - is not bolted down - also bought a sliding jack that can life the cars wheels off the lift for break work etc...uses a hydro hand pump...works great - check it our on GS website.

I have a 4 post Bendpak. I had it bolted down after about a month. Just like how secure it is now. Run it off of 120v and pleased with the speed going up. Mine uses air to release the safety locks. I understand some brands use a lever to release them. Might be something else to consider. I attached a spare air tank and just use the compressed air generated from the lift going up instead of attaching a separate air line every time I needed to lower it. Great customer service. Asked for some touch up paint and sent free of charge. Also, received great follow up asi was installing my air bottle.

I got mine from Advantge Lifts, built similar to the backyard buddy but less expensive. I only took my son and i a couple hours to assemble it.

I wish my garage was tall enough for a lift. There's no way I could make it work with my garage door up. And being in Florida I don't do any wrenching unless my garage door is up (too hot) and the fans are on.

Still might work. What is the height of the ceiling? You do have to go with a Liftmaster side operator and redirect the rails up towards the ceiling.

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7'2" to the bottom of the door when it's up. 8'6' to the ceiling. I'm sure it would be nice to have it to lift up the cars to wrench but I'd really like it to be able to store a car underneath of another one... and that's just not gonna happen.

I have the 4 post Rotary with runners and the optional sliding axle jacks (2). It is not bolted down, and in fact has huge casters you can employ to move it around your shop at will, pretty much by yourself. #9500 lift, 110V. It was less than $7k, delivered/assembled.

Magnuss - you need a Max Jax for the low ceiling problem http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

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change the door from a roll up to a flip up or get a rollup that does not go straight back

Doesn't the maxjack require a concrete floor that is thicker than a typical residential garage floor? That's my recollection from looking into this.

That MaxJack looks really slick for someone with limited garage space (like me). I can't find anything on their website regarding specifications for concrete thickness. Anyone using this product?

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BackyardBuddy is built in Warren, Ohio. I see you are in Ohio also. Maybe you are close enough to pay them a visit. A couple of the things I like about the BB. Instead of the support columns being of the bent c-channel style for legs like most lifts, the Backyard buddy uses square tubing for legs. I also like the mechanical safety locks. I'll be putting a nearly 5000# VW Westfalia on mine as well as the 996 and a couple other small cars. Safety and durability is everything for me. Have a look at this. This is part 1 about 14 minutes. There is a part 2 also. Backyard Buddy Part 1 - YouTube

Great video, really points out the differences that explain the value, made me want one.

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Concrete thickness: All your questions answered here with solutions to common issues: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=171686

before I bought the one i have i went to see the Backyard Buddy (only 20 min from me) the advantage lift is pretty much identical and about $1000 less shipped, should also mention the caster kit, drip trays, rolling jack tray and aluminum ramps are included. I got the 9000XLT Advantage Lifts

Atlas 7000lb Mid-Rise Scissor Lift Lifts the car from 0-42" in about 30 seconds. Isn't bolted down as I plan to inlay it into the cement floor this spring. Its phenomenal and has paid for itself 5 times over in just a few months. It works great for the Porsche, provides full access to the rear engine, I do suspension tweaks for track days in an hour instead of hours, oil changes are minutes. I've completely swapped out the entire suspension, brakes, exhaust and more using this lift over the past few months. Would buy again 10/10. It also is cut out in the middle so I can drop a complete drivetrain for Porsches or BMWs (RWD). Retail Video

^^^ i really like this one! Maybe I will buy it in 2016.

Lots of different options out there. The bottom line, and something that I think everyone with a lift would agree on, is that once you have a lift you wonder how you could have lived without it.

Totally agree with that sentiment! I have a Maxjax. Life is working on the car so easy now.

Vandersmith, is the Atlas jack long enough such that the stock 996 lifting points are resting on the jack ramp?

Am I missing something here but if one doesn't get a Scissor Lift then you are unable to work on wheels, brakes etc (like on Buddy's ramp system). I guess you would result to a floor jack and stands when working on wheels, brakes etc. I seems to me that scissor lift is the way to go but I don't know. Please enlighten me because a lift purchase is in my future, thanks. Cheekybird @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ 2004 Carrera 4S 2001 Carrera (sold) 1986 Carrera Targa (sold)

^ The 4 post lifts have various types of jack trays that slide along the runners. So, no problem to work on wheels, brakes, suspension. The limitation with a 4-post is that you won't be able to drop the engine as it is too wide to fit between the runners. The jack trays typically are included for free with the lift. You put your own jack in the tray. That's what I do. They also sell these "sliding hydraulic center jacks" for about $700: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...5-Sliding-Jack This is the lift that I have two of. Extra tall and 8,000 pounds capacity, 110 volt motor. They have been in service since spring 2008 with only one very minor problem that occurred after 6 years and was quickly resolved by Greg Smith Equipment's customer service. Price on it is $2,195. I think I paid $1,995 for it back in 2008. Comes with a free jack tray and caster set, plus some other accessories. The problem I have with this lift is that the posts are too tall to allow it to roll out into the driveway for garage cleaning. I didn't end up needing the extra height, so the extra cost was a waste, plus the restriction on moving to the driveway is a bummer. I would just get the regular height lift. I've had my S430 and several SUV's on this lift (including a full-sized Range Rover Supercharged) with no problem. I doubt that I will ever need to lift anything bigger than that.

this one is good, german engineered for tight spaces http://www.nussbaum-usa.com/portfoli...ift-spl-10000/

Since I am limited on ceiling height I have an Atlas Scissor list that I recessed into the floor: If I were to do it again I would of gone this route: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=228116

My brother and I are in the same dilemma trying to decide where to install a two post in the middle of his new shop. Its hard to delegate the room its going to take up right in the middle.

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I love the recessed approach. How thick is the slab?

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Original Garage floor slab was the standard 4 plus inches. For those wanting more info here is the thread I originally posted about it in the 993 section: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ssor-lift.html Somewhat of an FAQ for the project. What I did and worked well for me: -Hole Size: 89 1/2" Length by 46 5/8" Wide (Remember that I used 1/8" thick angle stainless steel and 5/8" composite decking to trim out hole) -Depth of Hole after digging it out: Minimum of 14" -Expanded the Hole 12" to 18" under Existing Floor for Additional Support -Thickness of Poured Concrete: Minimum of 7" -5 Piers dug 12" in Diameter, Minimum of 36" Deep, tied together with rebar -Depth of Finished Recess: 7" from Garage Floor to Recessed Floor -Hydraulic Cement was used to Finish out the Hole Sides / Uprights -I waited 30 days for all Concrete to Cure before Drilling / Anchoring Composite Sides -Size of Aluminum Plates: 8" x 24" x 1/4" Sourced from Ebay -PVC Pipe used to run lines through is 1 1/2", Coring Bit used to Drill Floor was 2" -I did place a piece of 1 1/2" PVC Pipe into Concrete on Front Corner of Recess to act as a Drain just in case -If you pursue my custom made release lever or find you need a longer cable (Bicycle brake cable), I had no luck sourcing one so I made my own: http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...l#post15421846 Lastly, When figuring out where to cut your hole, remember that you don't want to simply center it up since the lifting table is offset on the actual lift. If you go to the first page and look at the piece of corrugated I used please notice where I drew everything, the hydraulics are at one end and the lifting table is 20" offset to the other end. Contrary to what many would think, the table does not shift or move to the center of the hole or lift when raised, it pretty much remains in the same vertical plane when rising. Good Luck Gentlemen.......

Great write up coreseller!

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Why? For the access down the middle of the car?

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Because the older and fatter I get the less I want to bend over........... My set-up requires removal of the nearly 4' by 8' by 3/4" thick plywood sheet, setting it aside somewhere, pull the car over the lift / hole, raise the lift a few inches and pull out the 4 arms and adjust the pads for the lift points on the car, then raise it. The referenced Bendpak lift simply requires setting dense rubber blocks on top of each side and press a button, much easier. Also you would not have to worry about pulling into or out of the garage and misjudging your turn and crunching through the plywood and into the recess. And lastly yes, the access down the center of the car would be much better. Don't get me wrong, I'm thoroughly happy with my lift and set-up, I just think the Bendpack P-6F recessed would be a nicer way to go.

Ahhh! Makes sense! I'm all about convenience and ease of use these days myself. Thanks for the tip!

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Although Advantage comes with casters, it doesn't say if you can move the lift with a car on it. You can with Backyard Buddy for sure. With the added options such as the frame lift there seems to be no compromise. You get the flexibility of storage and serviceability. I've had an ezcarlift for quite a few years. It raises and lowers with a power drill and can be brought any where in the back of a truck or suv. It's been very handy. It can be broken down in a few minutes and stored in a corner of your garage. http://ezcarlift.com/ http://ezcarlift.com/gallery/porsche/index.php

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Yes you can move the lift with the car on it.

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The ramp is the perfect length. I use these Lift Pad inserts on all 4 lift points from eBay to protect the lift and the car.

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Boy that lift could work in my small working garage especially at these prices. Bal...sorry to high jack but I have a picture to show you about retaining factory speakers with Most Bose. This harness allows wiring aftermarket amp to OEM speakers. Guy in UK and I can't find his info...sorry. Where would a factory mic be in 996 with Bose if it had a phone of was set up for one...