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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 Brakes Difficult to Replace?
Leading reported evidence
Check any sign of minor pulsing
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
If you replace the disks, at your very first test once you put the car back together, check for ANY sign of minor pulsing on the brake pedal indicating a disk with run-out.
Leading evidence: 'Check any sign of minor pulsing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any sign of minor pulsing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Clean the piston boots carefully with some carb cleaner.
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Suggestion
Inspect your piston boots with a high intensity light.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Replace any that show tears from previous brake jobs which has been carelessly done at a shop(common, as seen in this vid).
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
If you replace the disks, at your very first test once you put the car back together, check for ANY sign of minor pulsing on the brake pedal indicating a disk with run-out.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check any sign of minor pulsing
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If you replace the disks, at your very first test once you put the car back together, check for ANY sign of minor pulsing on the brake pedal indicating a disk with run-out.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If you replace the disks, at your very first test once you put the car back together, check for ANY sign of minor pulsing on the brake pedal indicating a disk with run-out.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
In some cases, the disks may sit in a warehouse for extended time stacked together and they can take a set which can only be solved by having them trued on a lathe, or replacement.
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi, all! My front brake pads are getting thin and I need to replace them. I used to do the brakes on all of my cars, but it's been a while. I thought I would do these since, well, I love doing anything with my Porsche!
Are there any special tools that I'll need, any specific add-on parts I would be wise purchasing (new sensors... etc.?) and so-on? Are there any specific brands that anyone would recommend? I was looking at the Textar brakes ($90/set for front brakes) at Pelican Parts.
Any input would be appreciated!
It will take longer to jack the car up and remove the wheels than it does to actually replace the pads
While you are doing it, at very least bleed the system and if it is anywhere close to 2 years since the fluid was flushed, do a flush. Buy or borrow a Motive Power Bleeder, it will save you a tone of time.
Do a search for the DIY and look on Pelican parts for a good DIY as well
One tip....
if you still have the factory dampers, use a metal putty knife to separate the dampers from the old pads. You can reuse the dampers as long as they are not damaged. Just slide the putty knife between the pad and damper to separate them, There is an adhesive bond you have to break
What pads to use depends a lot on what kind of driving you do, any AX or track use and your sensitivity to brake dust on the wheels
Lots of Youtubes on this. Here are some links.
DIY - changing front brakes on a water-cooled Porsche - YouTube
DIY - changing front brakes on a water-cooled Porsche - part 2 - YouTube
A couple minor points from the first vid. I never push old fluid back up the brake line when compressing the piston into the slave cylinders. Before squeezing the pad to the caliper, I put a small drain hose on the bleed nipple and crack the line to let the old fluid come out of the bleed line.
When compressing the old pad into the caliper and collapsing the pistons, get them as far back as possible by prying on the friction side of the old pad so that the pistons go back into their bore straight. I would never pry on the piston top or the little shim that is between the piston and the back of the pad. That way, you don't need to go back and forth with the pry tool on each piston individually.
Once the inner pistons are fully compressed by prying on the old friction surface, remove the old pad and temporarily insert a new brake pad to keep them compressed while you do the outer pad. Apply the same rules here and pry on the friction surface of the pad, and not on the pistons. It's easy to slip and tear a piston boot that way.
If you are not changing the disk, it's best to use a shim of .032" approx stainless steel between the pry bar tip and the brake disk to protect the disk surface. After both old pads are out, close the bleed nipple, and insert the pads with the noise suppressing shim(if equipped). If the new pads won't go in, put an old pad back in and open the bleed nipple again then pry a bit more.
Many brake disks have spirally, or arced cast vents in them. They are directional. The disk breaths by taking in fresh air at the center hub and expelling hot air out on the edge. If you have a spirally cast vented brake disk, put it on the car, and look at the top of the disk. The spiral should be exiting angled toward the rear of the car. If you look at the disk vent, and it appears to be facing toward the front, that is the other side. If the vent is aligned so it is going straight up, you don't have spiral venting and then it's likely not directional.
Clean the piston boots carefully with some carb cleaner. I don't recommend brake cleaner but it will likely work ok. Inspect your piston boots with a high intensity light. Replace any that show tears from previous brake jobs which has been carelessly done at a shop(common, as seen in this vid). In fact, a torn brake piston boot should lead to a complete refurbishment of the caliper because brake dust has ingressed into the piston/seal area and may cause pitting or scoring of the piston or bore.
If you replace the disks, at your very first test once you put the car back together, check for ANY sign of minor pulsing on the brake pedal indicating a disk with run-out. there should be no pedal modulation at all, and if there is, you need to stop driving immediately and return the disks. In some cases, the disks may sit in a warehouse for extended time stacked together and they can take a set which can only be solved by having them trued on a lathe, or replacement. I've found this on everything from a common Ford, up to Maserati. In fact, the Maserati disk is at greater potential for taking a set while stored because it's not as common, and tend to be low volume use.
Opinions expressed are for entertainment only, and are not intended for actual advice. YMMV, objects in mirror are bigger, pro driver closed course, contents have settled, and may cause **** leakage.
Doing brakes on the 996 is super easy, like JayG said above it will take longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel.
I can also save you some money on the exact same brakes pads, just enter RENNLIST at checkout to save 10%. Here is a link to the fronts--->
http://www.warehouse33auto.com/parts...352%20949%2003
-Jason
I think Textar, would be your best bet. You're going to still have dust though, but not crazy. You could go with Hawk pads which are a little better in the dust department.
-Jason
IMHO, I hate my Textars for dusting.
I need new rotors too now at 116K.
By other Experienced P-Car Enthusiasts, for street and occasional DE track day, suggestion was to just stick with OEM pads and rotors. After all, Porsche engineers spent many years developing the larger rotors for my C4S or turbo. Same with the Pad compound.
sometimes going aftermarket is a step backwards depending on your application..
YMMV
I went with Hawk carbon ceramic pads because I was over my wheels looking dirty a day after being cleaned. Not terribly expensive and definitely worth it.
