16 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHInspection of IMS while still in the car??
Leading reported evidence
Inspect bearing
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced clutch at 150K miles, and inspected the bearing.
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Suggestion
Agree, NOT a good example as I oversimplified on purpose to drive home a point: if one is already DEEP in there removing seals/covers and checking bearing for play, change it.
Leading evidence: 'Inspect bearing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'thing' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bearing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace bearing my twin row bearing was still fine, i
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I finally replaced the bearing my twin row bearing was still fine, I use it as a paper weight on my desk now.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced clutch at 150K miles, and inspected the bearing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
i have a spin on oil filter adapter and i use Wix 51042 oil filter.
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Suspected cause
However, once you are that far in replacing the bearing is probably the thing to do.
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Check bearing
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Agree, NOT a good example as I oversimplified on purpose to drive home a point: if one is already DEEP in there removing seals/covers and checking bearing for play, change it.
Inspect bearing both visually and by detecting any play
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Suggestion
if you have the engine locked at TDC, tensioners and IMS cover removed, you can remove the bearing seal, inspect the bearing both visually and by detecting any play with the center bolt/race.
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I am ready to drop my transmission today to inspect if I need a new clutch due to some odd vibration when I release my clutch. I will be replacing the RMS but I am not sure on the IMS since its a 99 and has a double row.
Is there any way I can remove the cover and inspect it somehow? I am guessing I can check if it has the outer seal and if its leaking oil.. But i am not sure if I can check if it has play.
example that comes to mind is a home inspection....you just don't open the front door, take a peek then make a decision without going inside to conduct a thorough inspection????
If you have the transmission out and the clutch assembly apart you can remove the flywheel (remember that you will need new stretch bolts for the flywheel and an angle gauge to reinstall it) and remove the IMS flange. Again remember to remove the timing chain tensioners and to lock the cams (although on a five chain engine locking the cams is a little less critical) and examine the bearing. Maybe remove the outer seal, I did this years ago on the advice of LN Engineering be fore the removal of the IMS bearing was perfected. However, once you are that far in replacing the bearing is probably the thing to do. When I finally replaced the bearing my twin row bearing was still fine, I use it as a paper weight on my desk now.
Also, if you have the clutch out and the release arm has not been updated now is the time to do it.
not a good example.
if you have the engine locked at TDC, tensioners and IMS cover removed, you can remove the bearing seal, inspect the bearing both visually and by detecting any play with the center bolt/race.
the results you will get will be identicals to the ones with the bearing removed.
if you have play, the bearing is shot.
if you don't have play the bearing is fine. and that will not change if the bearing is removed from the shaft.
the thing is, that some bearing manufactures will tell you that the first stage of failure is if the bearing is not packed with grease.
which in that case, 100% of the bearing i saw over the years in the forums (or with my own eyes), are at the first stage of failure.
Thanks for your suggestion. Is there any reason to change the release arm? I just removed the clutch and that was definitely the source of the problem, fortunately the side of the flywheel did no go all the way down to the rivets and
flywheel is not scored.
meirschwartz,
Agree, NOT a good example as I oversimplified on purpose to drive home a point: if one is already DEEP in there removing seals/covers and checking bearing for play, change it. My 2 cents, what I would do if I am in the OP's position.
NETO, best of luck.
No.
When I say seal, I mean the black plastic ring that suppose to pack the grease in the bearing.
In some IMSB discussions, it's suggested to remove this seal in order to allow better oil flow to the bearing.
You will not find grease in it enyways, so it is not fulfilling its original purpose anymore.
I agree With your common sense. However, it is for the individual to decide what he wants to do. Just trying to make a point and answer his question about inspecting the bearing while still in the engine.
I have owned 3 Porsches.
01 Boxster S that I replaced a perfectly good bearing at 74K miles, just because I was sure I'm going to keep it for ever.
Second Porsche was a 99 Boxster base. I replaced clutch at 150K miles, and inspected the bearing. Bearing was perfectly good, so I left it in there. Didn't see any sense in putting a part that equal to 20 present of the car value. Sold the car with 164k miles, and as far as I know it still runs strong.
My current car is a 2002 C2 with 35K miles. I bought it with a leaking rear main seal, so the transmission will come out sooner or later.
At that time, I will take my decision if to replace the bearing or not.
Until then, I'll keep changing oil every 3K (like I did with my other cars) and inspect the filter every 1K. Cam deviation check at the same time.
I will probebly end up with replacing the bearing even if it will be good, mostly to make it easy when I sale the car.
I agree if you are all the way in there , most of the cost of the job is in the labour , you might as well put a new bearing in .
Even if you've got a dual row , failure of them is not unheard of , why not put in a new uprated dual row like l&ns as preventative maintainence . Not only do you get a fresh stronger bearing , you get a better housing cover , new case seal and an improved centre bolt . The stock center bolt has a thin section that is a known failure point . The improved housing cover gives a stronger base for the whole assembly and reducing the likelihood of oil leaks are nice benefits.
So FWIW my 98 Jeep Cherokee has a belt driven fan that's on a clutch and the housing has a bearing. I toasted the bearing last fall, a lot of smoke, more than likely a small fire (thus the smoke), and it was a big deal. Didn't hear the bearing go out before, AND, didn't hear it after it went out when the engine was idling, even though it was totally gone.
There is just so much noise going on in an engine and although bearings make noise when they go out, they aren't always obvious.
