Different 996 Engine Rebuild Questions

So I have read all the horror stories about IMS kaboom'd motors and the $8-$10k replacement motor yaddda yaddda yaddda stuff. My question is, what about a Artic Silver/Black Interior 2003 C2 that has a nice exterior, nice interior but 196k miles on the motor. Still runs well and has had new plugs/coils, front control arms, struts all the way around, brakes, tires, water pump, AC pulley and some other small stuff done within the last 2 months. I can't imagine the motor being super strong at 196k. What should/would an approximate "normal" rebuild cost for a running motor? Also, according to blue book it's a $10-$11k car. Is that reality or high/low?

I'm unfamiliar with what internals can be salvaged during a rebuild. If the crankshaft, camshafts, connecting rods can be reused, perhaps you'd save a couple thousand to do a build. I'd also wonder about all the other "working" components. You've indicated the struts were done. I'd worry about other components like bushings, even door hinges and other small things like that. But for $10k, you've got at least $10k to play with - in additional to an engine rebuild.

I forgot to mention, but it was obviously a daily driver for both the 2 owners it has had. Never tracked, but driven every day rain, shine, snow etc in the midwest.

Make sure you have a good look for rust...they use lots of salt out there.

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I would say the blue book range on the low side of reality unless it needs alot of other parts replaced now. As for the engine it most likely will need new cylinder sleeves & pistons so that's a quick $5,000 + most of the other internal small parts. Good news is you can increase displacement to 3.8L!

Also forgot to mention that I had asked about any former work to the IMS, AOS and RMS and I am awaiting the response. So if you are saying $5k minimum, if I had to add all that we are probably at closer to $7500-8k now?

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If you are refering to engine rebuilding, to do it right the 1st time figure $12,K minimum. While the engine is out there will be plenty other parts you will want to replace also. It's actually fun while the engine is out!

Are you in a position to spend more and get a car that you can drive/enjoy from day 1, DRAMA/WORRY-FREE??? Versus buying one at a lower $$ but you start your ownership with niggling issues/worries/stress/headaches, etc. My 2 cents. Best of luck.

Yes, I am, which is also a consideration. Just playing with the numbers. I mean if I can get a bulletproof one that I wouldn't worry about tracking and driving hard for $15-$18k then I think I would probably have more fun with it then buying a 996TT or '09 997 that I would be apprehensive "beating" on. Still just shuffling all the options around in my head. (For over a year now!!)

If you want to rebuild the engine like a factory engine then it will cost from $8k - $12k (gaskets, rings, timing chains, chain rails, IMS Bearing, Valve Guides, Stem Seals, Bolts, etc) but this does not fix many of the problems the 996 has such as cracked heads, cracked cylinder liners, & more.. If you want to rebuild and fix many problems these engines have then you need at least $20k 996TT are more reliable but more expensive..

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Which to me, $10k + $20k would = I guess spending another $10k and going 997.

13 year old bullet proof cars don't exist. At any price. If it's only had 2 owners in 13 years and almost 200k I'd be more willing to gamble on it than a 5 owner car with 50k on it. There are certainly going to be things that need to be done to it, but it obviously has not been a problem car. While I think the price is low for what you are getting, 200k scares a lot of people off so it's probably right on the mark. If you have the budget for a $35k+ car (since you are talking about a TT or 997) I would say go for this one and set a good chunk of the rest aside for a rainy day. Then just drive it and don't rush into a preemptive rebuild. Unless a good PPI (drop the pan and look at the cylinders from both ends) finds signs of impending problems I'd bet you can get another 50k out of it with routine care and feeding. That would be plenty of time for you to decide if you think it's worth an engine rebuild or not. Even if the motor dies on you, at $10k your only 3-5k over roller value. At $18k you are 11-13k over roller value and probably have a similar risk profile.

Good points!

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And to be honest, if I could drive it hard for 50-75k miles without worrying about wasting lots and lots of money if it breaks, I would be ok with accidentally turning it into a roller for a mere $3k net loss.

Just heard back that all three "usual" problems (RMS, IMS, AOS) have been addressed and he has the documentation. Asking price is $14,000. I'm running the car fax now.

Carfax shows 2 owners, 0 accidents, and 14 service records. Looks like it was a 4 year lease that was regularly serviced at the White Allen European Auto Group, Dayton, OH and second owner always had it serviced at a dealer in it's current location. So two dealers have serviced it since new. 2nd owner replaced the passenger window regulator and "weatherstripping". No other repairs noted on carfax.

Offer nine, maybe pay ten, add ten more (eight to the engine two for the other stuff) and enjoy a great car. Or look for a car you like at twenty. You're going to pay twenty no mater what so it just comes down to how you want to lay out the money.

I agree with JohnIreland, Gnat, and a few others. I'm in the midst of a search right now for a nice "driver" in the $15K range, Have passed on several because of some cosmetic issues. But they were both less than 80 K miles, with documented IMS repair, and decent history, Both priced in the mid teens, So a 200K miie car at $14K seems high to me. $10K is where I'd want to be on that, not much more. Good luck, keep us posted and I'll do the same.