Ignition switch replacement

Had to get the switch assy replaced a few days ago. Couldn't get the key, then couldn't get it back in, then when finally did, had no wipers, radio, blower motor or indicators. Took it to the dealership while it was at least still running. They replaced the switch, total bill just about $600. Now here's the interesting thing.......since replacing the switch, the car runs smoother, quieter, stronger! First I thought it was my imagination but having taken it on three drives over the course of three days, it's definitely better than it was before I had the troubles! Could it be that because of bad connections, various sensors might either not have been getting full voltage or intermittent voltage?? It's the only reason I can come up with. Bottom line......it's better and thanks for it!!

I had the same issue with all of the accessories. As far as running more smoothly, that's a new one - but given the sheer volume of things that go wrong when that switch is buggy, I suppose it's possible. This switch is definitely on my short list of suspects when the car starts acting wrong. In addition to the issues you listed, headlights may not come on, starter can get stuck in the "starting" position, and even if the key comes out, the car may think the key's still in the accessory position - so stuff stays on. If you ever need to replace the switch again, you can work a screwdriver, and you're fairly flexible, the part is $31.50 at Pelican (the price varies a few bucks depending on model), so you might be able to save yourself a bit of dough next time around.

Just wondering, with all the info here and at Renntech about this issue, why did you pay $600 for a $30 part and 20 minute repair? What else did dealer do. That bill would of have given me a heart attack.

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Well, the part isn't $30 it's $222. That of course is the real Porsche part. I've no idea if the parts supplied by your corner store are correct. They might "fit" and work but that doesn't mean they're the correct part. Fitting cheap replacement parts to these cars, imo, is kinda silly. You spend a load of cash on getting a great and expensive machine, then put cheapo parts in it. Doesn't make sense to me. ALL the parts that go into my car are genuine Porsche. Rightly or wrongly, that's the way I look at things. I do the same with my old Jag.....just use genuine parts.

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First off, Porsche doesn't make half of the parts in the car - they use OEM's. That being said, the OEM part made by Kostal is 31.50 on pelican. That's the same part that was used by the factory. That $222 price is the dealer markup. Ouch.

Hello All, New to Rennlist and my first post. I recently purchased a 2003 4S and one of first things I fixed on my car was the ignition switch. Couple of hours of research on this forum, the $31 part from Pelican, and 1/2 hour of work, the car was back in business again. Thanks all.

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Welcome ! You will like this forum. Lots of great information and people here. Please post pictures of your C4S.

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What we are describing here is the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Porsche no longer supply just the electrical portion but the completes lock assembly of which the electrical bit just screws into. Installing the complete lock assembly mean at least 2 hours work removing the steering covers and assembly, that's why your bill was $222 + labour. The electrical portion is common to Audi, VW, Skoda and numerous other Euro manufacturers and is made by several companies throughout Europe in their thousands. Thats why its so cheap to buy @ $31.00 each.

Stephen I guess that is the price in Queensland. In the USA Porsche sells the whole switch for $187.47. Suncoast which is a Porsche dealer cuts everyone and sells it for $159.95. My local Indy shop Mtech ordered the part from Worldpac and it came with the Porsche sticker on it. It was from a dealer and had the porsche dealer number. The part was $18.00. It took him about 20 mins to change the part that was broken. So the fact that the part was from Porsche means that Porsche does get them. They are charging people 800 dollars + to change a part that cost less than $20. Even if they would use the full switch they are charging 4X the price of the switch to change it. I'm not one to nickel and dime. I just dumped over $7000 in my 996 with suspension and clutch and breaks and exhaust. I love and wouldn't go to any other shop but Mtech in New Rochelle. When my switch went it was very similar but I didn't lose power. My key wouldn't come out and the AC didn't work. I called Mike at MTECH he told me to wiggle the key while it was running. I did and everything came back. He said don't attempt to remove it and drive it to him. I did so. I got there and the part was there. It takes me an hour and a half to get to him. With in 30 mins the switch was repaired and I was fine. He charged me 30 mins labor, $45 dollars and $18 dollars for the switch. $63 dollars. Not $600.

$16 OEM part fr EBAY...30 minutes of contortion, plus I can't see. My detail guy did it in 15 minutes. but the detail was pretty expensive-

Why are some folks so aggressive on this forum? How about, "Hey, thanks for the information....maybe next time I will look into doing it myself and save some money." Instead, it is insults and innuendos..... To all of those that try and help those of us without tons of money, thank you for the do it yourself advice and thanks to those manufacturers that provide parts without the Porsche tax.

There are always folks who do not want to do the work themselves, which is fine. My goal in post 2 was to let OP know the option for DIY existed if he wanted to save some $$$ next time - without being overzealous about DIY (which KK took care of in post 3). The comments about the part being a cheap replacement are totally off-base - but even if the part WAS an off-brand, so what? The first one wore out, so it's not like you'd be replacing some masterpiece of craftsmanship with a shoddy clone. These switches wear out constantly. I've had 100% failure rate of the switch based on my sample size of 2 Porsches. If you have the money to spend, hell, it's your prerogative. Spend it. If on the other hand you have better things to spend your money on, take the advice offered herein and buy the IDENTICAL part that Porsche is going to provide you...for hundreds of bucks less. Just like the MAF sensor, you can pay several hundred more bucks if you want the Porsche box - or you can buy the same part from the same manufacturer for less than half the price. It even comes in a box - but it says Bosch instead of Porsche. If saving money appeals to you, you CAN save a lot of money without resorting to off-brand parts by doing a little research. OP, I'm glad you got the car running, and I'm sorry if my comments in post #2 caused this thread to go south. My only ambition in posting was to let you know that there is a MUCH less expensive way to address this issue should you need to do so again in the future.

That part is $11.49 and kept in stock at your local NAPA. Just sayin'.

OP....I had a similar run-in on this forum when I had roughly a quart of oil leak out on my garage floor. Thinking I may have a catastrophe on my hands, I called a reputable INDY and took his advice to flatbed my car to the shop and NOT drive it. I was highly ridiculed for what I did when it turned out to be my oil filter wasn't completely tightened. Wound up costing $100 plus the tow. I suppose in hindsight I should have been able to get under the vehicle to diagnose it but I chose to be safe and have a professional look at it. With these cars and this forum it's best to listen a lot and at the end of the day it's your car, your money and your decision. Do what YOU feel most comfortable with. On your situation, any good Indy will tell you to buy OEM parts vs Porsche labelled.

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Exactly.

Well, I thought I put it nicely. Just goes to show what you can learn by reading the forum and learning from others. I think I paid $28.00 for the Audi switch. Guess my 996 is going to self destruct because I didnt waste $600. Maybe Im just stupid?

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In my case both parts had to be replaced and as one poster mentioned, Porsche only sell the entire unit, so the $222 makes sense. Also, again in my case, the actual mechanical part had failed. I couldn't get the key out, then couldn't get it back in etc etc then the electrical devices started failing.......so, again, in MY case, the entire switch required replacement which requires the removal of the instrument pod etc. It was a lot of money to spend but the difference in the way the car runs is quite surprising. Still not sure it's not just my imagination but here we are about a week later and it's still running better than ever!

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No, you're not stupid, you're just e**ing arrogant and rude mate! So, bottom line.......electrical part can be obtained for prices from around $12 to around $32 and from Porsche for around $220......and all are apparently exactly the same. Makes you wonder doesn't it! On a similar note, I'm restoring a '68 Jaguar XKE that I've owned for about 18 years. Over those years I've learned a lot about using aftermarket vs genuine Jaguar parts. And the biggest lesson is, generally not always, you get what you pay for and buyer beware re the aftermarket stuff. So I always go for OEM parts, but then I don't lose sleep over money wasted on aftermarket junk, and I share my hard lessons learned experiences with those who are in the same situation I am with the Jag, and I don't call them stupid if they choose to go the aftermarket route.

Point of clarification: This is the cheap part that porsche no longer makes and can be replaced in an hour with for $30 with a VW or Audi part. It usually fixes the problems, but not always This is what Porsche replaced for you: This piece is about $200 from Porsche and requires more labor to replace. If you figure $222 for the parts and 3 hours labor - you get the $600. Expensive, but not unreasonable.

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Thanks for that........I feel much better seeing the serious chunk of metal that was replaced along with the failing electromechanical parts of the switch.

Just to clarify for future users, the dealer will replace the entire ignition switch but you probably just needed the cheap electrical part replaced. The thing will act like it is more than just the electrical part - mine was crunchy and sticky and wouldn't let me remove my key. I thought for sure I would need to replace the entire assembly - I thought there was no way it would just be the cheap part that would fix it. But, for $12, I thought it would be worth a shot. I swung by the local NAPA parts store and spent 19 minutes replacing the electrical portion of the switch. Works like a charm now.

The entire assembly is upgraded and the original was discontinued, so there must be sme problems with it. But I had problems this winter if the temp was below freezing. When I removed the key the car stayed on for a few minutes, then there was a click and the power turned off. I just replaced the electrical part also when I saw how much labor was involved in the the removal of the entire part. I am waiting for the winter to see if my cheap fix was enough.

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I would like to pick one up as mine is getting a little sticky. Anyone have the part number for the NAPA part? I hate going in without the part number and they ask what car is it for... you way "Porsche" they say immediately, "Nope, don't have it!"

ATM 4A0905849B

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Thanks! Right after posting this yesterday I went to lunch in the 996, stopped at an Autozone (mind you it was 104 degrees out in AZ) to see if they have the part, they didn't, went to start car it was acting crazy would not start, windows going crazy etc... but starter would barely start to turn over, tried to jump. Called my Indy convinced it was the ignition switch, he said nope, replace the battery. Walked back into Autozone bought battery and replaced... solved the problem. On lunch today I am going to buy a lottery ticket.

Napa switch made in china only last me 1 year , so i went and buy other one hope this time last little longer. Next time buying the updated part from Porsche

I bought the Napa switch and it was cheap plastic junk that would not even align with the key barrel. I swapped it for another and it came apart during fitting. Then I bought the Pelican Parts $30 unit that was the same as old Porsche part and it went right in. I also replaced my clutch and brake pedal switches at the same time and now my ABS / PSM / blower motor all work again, the car turns over every time I try to start it and there are no warning lights on the dash for the first time since I owned the car.

When I pull out my key it sometimes takes about a second to go "click". This morning I didn't get a click and I couldn't get the key in for a second. I kind of wiggled the key, got the same click and the key went in. Is this the same issue described in this thread? Thanks

Swapping the electrical portion only of the switch seems to fix a wide variety of problems associated with the ignition switch. I could have sworn that the first time mine went bad it was the tumblers that would need to be replaced, but the $12 switch fixed it. That switch lasted me about a year before I had to replace it. Now I keep a spare in my car along with a very small flat blade screwdriver tip. Once you swap it out once, it is a 15 minute job to do it again. Bottom line, first step with any ignition switch related problem should be to drop the $12 bucks at NAPA to swap out the electrical portion of the switch. It's only slightly more expensive and troublesome to do than swapping a light bulb. So, think of it this way, if a light bulb were to go out on your car, the first thing you'd do is swap the bulb rather than replacing the entire light housing. Only if the bulb swap didn't work would you consider spending the $$ to change out the entire housing.

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+996 Or, you know, WD-40.

rwiii, I had the exact same issue. Other times, the cylinder would not release the key, and I had to fight with it. Issue was resolved using the $30 Pelican switch component.

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[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif

Thanks 5CH

hi im having sort of the same problem, my 2004 911 is not starting, I turn the key to start the car I get all lights and no turn of the engine and if i leave it in that positing after a while it mysteriously starts. i was told it can be the ignition i order the ignition tumbler from Pelican i would like to replace it . Does anyone have a video on the process or can give me on how to replace it before i go and start ripping things out...... lol thank you

My turbo did the same thing. I would turn the key and you couldnt hear the motor crank. Everything else appeared normal. I bought a new electrical switch at my vw parts department and 30 min later everything was working great. The new ignition switch also solved a higher battery draw when the car was off.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...on_Switch.html http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ering_Lock.htm Your search took 0.0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000003 seconds.

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what electrical switch did you get? Reason why im asking is because i replaced the ignition switch tumbler and still the same problem.......

It could also be your clutch pedal switch, very easy and cheap fix. I bought genuine Porsche from Sunset for under $20 I believe. I tried 2 or 3 ignition switches from NAPA, but the quality was so poor that I bought the real thing.

I've searched and read every ignition switch post. That said.... 1992 C2 Cab. 6speed My issue was as follows: No electrical problems with any systems and the car is running great. The car starts fine and starts every time normally. But when I go to shut the engine off and turn the key all the way counterclockwise, the car shuts off and the key comes out of the ignition, however, it can take 2 seconds, 5 seconds, or 30 seconds for the ignition to springs back. It's like it is stuck and slowly frees itself and snaps back. Until it snaps back the key can not be inserted in the ignition. Now, if I am reading the post correctly this is not new or unusual. It seems that others have had this exact issue and swapping out the ignition switch solved the problem. Even though it would seem that it sounds like a mechanical issue, like the tumbler not springing back right away. But people swapped the switch for "****s and giggles" and the issue was resolved. Well I just swapped out the switch, what a pain in the ***, but i did it, and it did not solve the ignition from not springing back. I used the Napa switch ($12.18) This situation is very unsettling because until it springs back the car can not be started. I've had to giggle and pound on it a few times for well over 2 or 3 minutes to get it to spring back. Usually though it only takes seconds. Does it sound like I need the whole ignition replaced as others have had to do? Or what? Do I need to lubricate something? Thanks for help....

Girls please, you're all pretty. I'm in the middle of this job so hopefully this will be of help to someone. The early problematic switch has been updated with the newer perhaps slightly less problematic unit, which does require the updated steering wheel lock assembly, aka "the ray gun". I sourced the Audi part number locally before discovering that my car has had the revised ray gun installed, which means I have to use the new style switch. The labor to install the new steering wheel lock is considerable, and since it hasn't turned out to be much of a cure I'm going to leave it to the end user to decide where to spend their money. Here are the two switches: The new style is the white one. When I initially went to order a switch I called Sunset Porsche in Portland, OR. When he asked me which switch I had I didn't know about the update. Here is the part that is in conflict with what I'm reading in this thread: The guy taking my phone order told me that I can buy the white electrical portion for $32 and the entire assembly for something like $147. Once I crawled in there and got my switch out (you can actually see the colored barrel section prior to removal so you don't have to take it out to know), I decided to give a local dealer a shot at selling me a switch. They told me I can't buy the switch only and quoted me a much higher number than Sunset for the switch assembly with the steering wheel lock. Some people like getting screwed and lied to I guess ($600 for a job that only requires one tool - a small screwdriver - or "Porsche doesn't sell the switch only"). That dealership lost my business in a single phone call and I ordered the switch from Sunset.

Not sure why my pics from earlier posts are not showing. But you need the entire cylinder lock mechanism. There is a piece on the end that locks the steering wheel that needs to pop back in before you can put the key back in. There is no way to lube it. The new parts comes with the electrical portion attached. And be careful in the cold. It may take forever for the piece to pop back out.

dgjks6, That's what I thought. South Florida so not to cold here much. So this is what they are talking about that dealers are charging $600-$800 to do? I replaced the old style switch with a new old style switch from Napa and as I said it did not help. So' I'll just keep the old one in the car with tools in case I have the electrical failure. Any idea what the part number(s) are for what is needed for the cylinder lock mechanism is/are?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...RWP1UV&vxp=mtr Follow the pelican parts link listed in the above post. It's a couple hour job but not the most difficult DIY.