49 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHKey would not come out of ignition
Reported or suspected cause
electrical portion of the switch
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
All that crunching and binding - no way it was the electrical portion of the switch.
Check horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Decided to take my Porsche for a spin today, placed the key won't turn left or right, I start moving the steering wheel to see if it was locked, it wasn't, but because I moved the steering wheel, then it got locked, I checked horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote from the key was locking and unlocking.
Leading evidence: 'electrical portion of the switch' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'electrical portion of the switch' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And yes, I did spray some WD40 down in there in an attempt to fix it before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
What sucks is I just replaced the headlight switch a few weeks ago because the headlights weren't coming on (random) when I started the car.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I started looking around at how to get the tumblers replaced the most cost effective way.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
to use another key so I use the valet same results no turning left or right but now I couldn't retrieve the key
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Decided to take my Porsche for a spin today, placed the key won't turn left or right, I start moving the steering wheel to see if it was locked, it wasn't, but because I moved the steering wheel, then it got locked, I checked horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote from the key was locking and unlocking.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Although no hint of mine ever sticking, I have sprayed a little WD40 on the key shaft and into the key hole in an effort to prevent the key from sticking and the tumblers or whatever to run smoothly.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Was able to scrape off the red thread lock applied to the two set screws and then I made an improvised 90 degree screw driver, using a thin blade from a magnetic socket-set attached to a small vice grip plier.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Was able to scrape off the red thread lock applied to the two set screws and then I made an improvised 90 degree screw driver, using a thin blade from a magnetic socket-set attached to a small vice grip plier.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
49 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
3 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Spend the 20 bucks and get it fixed, rather than messing with it and risk breaking the key off.
With no humidity and 65F, this morning was just perfect for a windows-down romp on some back roads.
Anyway, I went to shut off the car in the garage and there was noticeable resistance when turning the key to the left and was hard to remove the key from the ignition. Can a lubricant be used inside the ignition tumbler or is this an early sign of failure?
Hope everyone enjoys a ride over this weekend!
Search for ignition switch failure and you will find mucho info. Very common failure. Easy DIY fix that will cost you $12.50 at NAPA for the part. Took me all of 19 minutes to swap out. Some will say you must be a contortionist to perform this repair, but I'm 50 yrs old and 250 pounds, so it ain't that bad. You'll need a small Phillips head screwdriver, but just the tip (like what you would load into an electric drill). Also, you don't need to remove the left side of the dash, like it says in some of the DIY guides, just disconnect the air duct above the clutch & brake pedals and you can get to the switch without removing anything else.
Although no hint of mine ever sticking, I have sprayed a little WD40 on the key shaft and into the key hole in an effort to prevent the key from sticking and the tumblers or whatever to run smoothly. That was about 6 months ago and still working smoothly. It wouldn't harm for you to at least try that method first.
We need a special section for Hurdi. Maybe "Hurdi's Hunches" where you can post "creative" solutions to known issues.
White smoke at start up? Shove some bananas in the tailpipes to keep it from coming out. Sensitive electrical component acting up? Spray some WD-40 in there! Leaves in your radiator? Head to Home Depot and get some chain link fence cut to size!
Hurdi always comes through with good advice
Whether it be WD40 or duct tape, both will fix all issues including pending IMS failures and permanent fixes to RMS leaks!!
Check out this thread -- my posts have a link to the correct part (at least for a 2002) and some DIY instructions.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...on-switch.html
hahaha.. or simply buy the part and DIY it. Funny I haven't had to do mine. Or probably will ever have too. It's whats called DIY PM. Never needed a mechanic working on my car in the past 27,000 miles. Have you? Just saying.
Let the pissing match begin lol.... I think logically but obviously you don't. I look for PM first. Then figure why something happened. I have to know how something ticks (so to speak). If I can find a simpler way to cure or prevent the problem I will find it. If I can't then I would have a more technical person do it for me. I don't mind laying upside down under the dash board but if I did have to change the ignition, I would (every 6 months) add a little spot of WD40 on the key in an effort to prevent it ever happening again. You would not as you don't think logically as I do. You see young man, I can figure things out, even the internet. I won't bore you by giving you links to my many pages on the net or to my videos underwater or flying my plane. I wouldn't mind seeing yours though. That's if you can figure out how to post a link to this page hahahahaha.
Nah, I mean, obviously if you do something and then an event happens later the thing you did before caused the event that happens later. It's just basic logic. Why would you argue with something as airtight as that? That's why the 996 owners manual says to spray WD-40 on your key, to keep your IMS from blowing up.
Evidence: I know of at least one owner who sprays WD-40 on his key and his IMS is intact. Cause. Effect. It's science.
By astonishing coincidence, this has just happened to me - I've just driven to work and parked outside and the key is refusing to come out of the ignition switch. Anyone got any tips on how to persuade it out in advance of doing the full swap?
Wow. Fun stuff, with the insults and all.
I think what we have here is a simple misunderstanding between DT and Hurdi. As I'm sure everyone knows, the ignition switch consists of a lock and an electrical switch. The two components are attached, but separate devices.
An electrical issue related to the electrical portion of the ignition switch would probably cause electrical symptoms. In that scenario, the electrical portion of the ignition switch should definitely be replaced.
A stuck key
could
be a mechanical issue within the lock itself, with all of its tiny moving bits and tumblers. Hence, WD-40 or other lubricant could be a valid solution for a stuck key. Graphite would be best for long term lubrication.
That said, the electrical portions of these ignition switches are notorious for failing and definitely suspect.
Group hug, everybody
To you and the OP: have you tried turning the steering wheel a little bit? Though I've never had trouble getting my key out, I have had trouble getting it to turn because of the steering wheel lock.
Just a WAG...
Thanks, I did have a quick go but I'll persevere - although the key seemed to have turned just as far as it usually does. I also have some silicone spray that might help release anything that's sticking.
That seemed to help a bit, however turning the key to the leftmost position and moving the steering wheel was the only way to get the key out.
Being stubborn and stupid at the same time, I went for a ride yesterday and noticed that the HVAC wasn't working, controls illuminated but no airflow. It's definitely dying, I'll have the switch today and get it done. I removed the HVAC duct yesterday and realized how tight the space is under the dash. With a giant head, it'll be a tight fit to get my melon under there.
It theoretically could be that. And it seems like it has to be something mechanical, but 99.99999% of the time in these exact circumstances it is not the lock itself, it is the electrical portion. Don't take my word for it, google 996 (or 986) key stuck in ignition and in almost every message board forum there is someone saying "you won't believe it, but it is the electrical component that is the culprit." Mine wouldn't come out at all, my lights stopped working. All kind of weird **** happens and then you swap out the part and everything is perfect. That's based not only on my personal experience but on the personal experience of literally hundreds of people all over the internet in 986/996 forums.
Ok, I tried again to get the key out, wiggling the wheel as well but it's as stuck as that time Sticky the stick insect got stuck on a stick.
Having said I thought it went as far to the left as it normally does, I'm now not so sure. How far *should* it turn between ignition on and key out?
DTMiller is correct. It may SEEM like a tumbler issue, but it is the electrical portion of the ignition switch. WD40 ain't gonna fix it. I would have bet $1,000 that my tumblers were screwed up. I started looking around at how to get the tumblers replaced the most cost effective way. All that crunching and binding - no way it was the electrical portion of the switch. And yes, I did spray some WD40 down in there in an attempt to fix it before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch.
Repeat after me: Replace the $12 switch - Replace the $12 switch - Replace the $12 switch.
Panic over...
Started it up and shifted it out of Park (it's a Tiptronic) and noticed that the button on the shift lever pressed down very easily. Turns out I can't have pushed the lever quite far enough forward when I parked up this morning and it locked the key in place as a result. Got back to the garage, put it back in P, turned off the engine and took the key out as normal.
<looks for "embarrassed" icon>
<fails>
Update:
Was able to scrape off the red thread lock applied to the two set screws and then I made an improvised 90 degree screw driver, using a thin blade from a magnetic socket-set attached to a small vice grip plier. If your hands are like my bear paws it's a mother to get them in there along with the driver. TAKE YOUR TIME and use a flashlight
To guide the driver into the sets screws. They backed off pretty easy. That's was the hard part, except for getting your head out between the clutch, left foot rest and lower dash panel.
If you are claustrophobic, pre-medicate before you go inside, otherwise it's a bit creepy being jammed in there.
Onward and upward!!
I think each understood the other quite well.
However, I applaud your efforts to make the 996 forum a kinder, gentler place.
Kumbaya, my lord...Kumbaya...
Indeed. And by the time I'd realised my incompetence I'd already ordered a new switch - not that it sounds like a bad thing to have sitting in the parts box.
Well, the installation of the new switch is complete, my neck is sore, back is a little sore, but it completely solved the problem.
Thanks to all who helped and offered advice (serious and comical)!!
Drive Onward!!
I never drank the Kool-Aid on the tumblers solution and figured with experience comes the correct answer.
I'll admit that I'm a noob when it comes to this car and certainly appreciate any advice, and humor I can soak up.
who's a dumb *** hahaha. And I had to go through hell and back from other posters because you have a tip instead or a NORMAL gear change 996... Consider yourself severely reprimanded short of my boot up your dumb *** hahahahaha.
You are in Lancaster PA????????????? I am in Ephrata. What is the color of your car so I can look out for you. Mine is artic silver convertible in case you want to avoid me haha.
Is this key week? or what?
Decided to take my Porsche for a spin today, placed the key won't turn left or right, I start moving the steering wheel to see if it was locked, it wasn't, but because I moved the steering wheel, then it got locked, I checked horn, lights everything was working perfectly also the remote from the key was locking and unlocking. I had the brilliant idea
to use another key so I use the valet same results no turning left or right but now I couldn't retrieve the key
I read the manual, did a quick search on the forum to do the DIY but unfortunately I feel a little scare to brake the console or do any damage and also to avoid cook myself alive in this Florida weather, tow the car to the Porsche dealer and got the (Steering Lock Assembly with Ignition Switch) replaced.
Well is key week on the forum!!!!!!
Had EXACTLY this scenario on my '03 C4S a few weeks ago. Lights and wipers took a dump simultaneously, after the ignition got grabby with the key.
Yes, I suppose I could find a way to remove it: But I hate messing with electrical anything. I prefer to pay the man. Ain't nobody got time fo' that...(thank you Cuda911, BTW for that painfully funny YouTube).
Thanks Rennlisters, for this string. At least I know its a reasonably common event and won't get the
"Oh,
your entire wiring harness has failed and it'll be $9000"
nonsense from the mechanic.
__________________
Here's the "Me, too." Mine failed last night.
What sucks is I just replaced the headlight switch a few weeks ago because the headlights weren't coming on (random) when I started the car. $180 for the switch.
At least this one is a $12 fix and I won't have to worry about the headlight switch again for the foreseeable future.
So, if anyone happens upon this thread for headlight switch, you might want to first check that the ignition switch is starting to slowly fail.
And since I already know how to remove the left wing of the dash, doing it again should be easier than before.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
