13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTool for coolant tank bleeder valve removal?
Reported or suspected cause
tank is difficult
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
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Read evidence and context
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Reported cause
The major issue is the tank is difficult to extract from the confined cavity.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
One reason being it looked like just doing the bleeder with the tank in the car would be just as much work, or at least require as much time, as replacing the complete tank.
Leading evidence: 'tank is difficult' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'tank is difficult' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace complete tank' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
One reason being it looked like just doing the bleeder with the tank in the car would be just as much work, or at least require as much time, as replacing the complete tank.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Having said all that, I am going to chill on this project because the bleeder valve housing does not seem to be weeping coolant since I snugged up the screws and, as Ahsai noted, there is real risk here of getting it apart (eventually) and still needing to replace the coolant tank.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'll replace the whole thing at some point in the near future.
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Replace complete tank
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
One reason being it looked like just doing the bleeder with the tank in the car would be just as much work, or at least require as much time, as replacing the complete tank.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Having said all that, I am going to chill on this project because the bleeder valve housing does not seem to be weeping coolant since I snugged up the screws and, as Ahsai noted, there is real risk here of getting it apart (eventually) and still needing to replace the coolant tank.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T044418Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Has anyone modified or found a tool that will remove the inaccessible screws that retain the coolant bleeder valve? I would prefer not to remove the coolant tank to do this and already have the new valve in hand.
I can remove one of the two tough ones (slowly) but the one at about 10 o'clock (looking down on the top of the valve) is going to require a "just right" combination of socket height or maybe wrench offset.
I would not trust reusing those screws or putting in new ones. The screws have very course threads and it doesn't look like they will bite well after they've been removed.
The universal might work, but would have to be a 7mm socket made on a universal. There is simply no room for a socket AND a universal. I hear what you are saying Ahsai. The valve comes with new screws, and the old ones seem willing to come out, but I recognize there is risk involved here.
I cut off a 7mm 6-point 1/4" drive socket as shallow as I dared and will give this combo a try tomorrow.
I can confirm that the shortened socket and the small flex handle will actually go on that "impossible" screw head and there is room to turn it too. I think it can be backed out maybe 1/4" before you run out of room to work above it. At that point, the socket with a thumbwheel type attachment (I have one) "might" get it the rest of the way out if it isn't too hard to turn. Or you would have to turn it with your fingers or maybe a pair of pliers.
The screw just in front of it, also hard to access, can be screwed out with an open end wrench but once "out" it can't actually be removed from the bleeder valve housing because there isn't enough vertical clearance. Just have to remove the housing with the screw still in it and then remember to place that screw into the housing before re-installation.
Having said all that, I am going to chill on this project because the bleeder valve housing does not seem to be weeping coolant since I snugged up the screws and, as Ahsai noted, there is real risk here of getting it apart (eventually) and still needing to replace the coolant tank.
I came to my senses and returned the bleeder valve and bought a new coolant tank (which includes the bleeder valve). I'll replace the whole thing at some point in the near future. One reason being it looked like just doing the bleeder with the tank in the car would be just as much work, or at least require as much time, as replacing the complete tank. Another is that the tank in my car appears to be original which, at 68K miles, is not a good thing. And lastly, helpful input from the members here. Thanks!
Ahsai - it is a Mk. 2 but it looks to me like most of the junk on the left side needs to come out or loose and then you are there. Air pump, air box and some hoses and wires. I guess I'll be an expert on this once I've done it.
It's more difficult than that. What works for me is to unbolt the engine mounts and lower the engine to its lowest point. Some people found that removing that big hex bolt on the fuel rail helped.
So maybe the info I saw on this was a Mk. 1 because it didn't look too tough to me. Your description of the work sounds like a real project - doable, but a project.
