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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHQuestion re splicing
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related
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Reported cause
the issue is related to air getting to the connection points and causing corrosion .
Leading evidence: 'related' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'related' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill with sealant' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
(There are crimp connectors that when crimped break open a bladder filled with sealant that surrounds the wiring connection and seals it.
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Suggestion
I imaging if you used an acid flux, there could be a problem later on if it was not cleaned after soldering and I have never heard of acid flux being recommended for electrical connections.
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Suggestion
I'm in the process of replacing the Evap canister with its purge valve, the fuel line vent valve on the filler neck and the purge valve just above the alternator.
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Suggestion
I imaging if you used an acid flux, there could be a problem later on if it was not cleaned after soldering and I have never heard of acid flux being recommended for electrical connections.
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Suspected cause
JayG in the world of boating which is probably the harshest environment for wire connections the ABYC (American boating council) definitly is against soldering of connections.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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This is the first time I have ever tried to 'splice' into a wire without cutting the wire. My question is "do I have to bare back part of the plastic covering for the splicing"? Also do I have to bare back the end of the wire being joined? I am trying to DIY on using the orange side markers so they flash along with the turn signal inside the head lights. I have attempted and thought that I had completed the passenger side. Still only the normal turn signal works. Nothing from the orange side marker. Thanks for any info. I am using the orange/red size splice connector. I also have a different size, the blue connector. Thanks for all comments and tips on the subject.
OK Forget this posting. I solved it. The wires do NOT have to be bare when splicing. I had connected the other end up wrongly. I was trying to splice that end at the orange side markers and should have cut the brown wire and connected the spliced wire extension to the brown. All working correctly now thanks. Probably one of my easiest DIY jobs I have done on the car. They look really neat especially as I still have the orange markers (pumkins) on the car. They flash independently to the normal front turn signals. About half a second apart. The side marker's still light with the side lights and only flash with the turn signals.
Just a warning (I'm assuming you're using those plastic splicer deals that you sort of push together and they cut the insulation a little)... those things suck donkeyballs in the long run and will eventually fail on you. When you have a little more time use a connector that you heat shrink on like this:
Here's the splicer clip I'm assuming you used:
KMagnus. Yeh that's the type that I used. I will keep an eye on the side markers. Should any fail then I will resort to baring the wire back and simply hand winding the wires and taping them up. I took the car out and hit as much rough road as I could find and they are working fine for now.
The blue thingy is a inline tap and they work great. I have used them for years with no problems
If you are splicing wires, either use one of them, strip the ends and a crimp, or remove the insulation from the wire you are splicing into and the end of the wire being spliced in and solder it. Don't just wrap wires and tape. It will corrode and eventually be a bad connection and even before corroding be a higher resistance connection
The soldering part is a great idea Jay thanks. I bought a new soldering iron a few months back. That method will become my mini DIY job in the near future. Fot now I will leave it 'as is'..
That's because you are in CA where it's relavely dry. Use one of those connectors where it's wet all the time and the wire will start to corrode from the inside. Had an ABS wire once that even after 2 feet the copper was still black.
Not exactly. How many factory connections do you see that are soldered? I'll help......NONE! They are all crimped BUT they are weather tight. They key of crimping is to make them weather rights. The connector in the first pic is available where the ends are heat shrinkable plastic and are meant to work outside the cockpit. If you are using the none website tight ones, cover them with RTV to seal them up and you will be fine.
I used to believe this too, but was informed by a knowledgeable source that this is not always true. In fact in some environments, soldered connections are very much frowned upon, as apparently (and I have no first hand experience or knowledge of this) the combination of solder and associated flux can actually amplify corrosion. Watertight is key, if corrosion is an issue I would think.
the issue is related to air getting to the connection points and causing corrosion . crimping does make an airtight connection where the wires meet, so does soldering.
As far as soldered connections being frowned upon, I would be curious to who your "knowledgeable source" is and in what environment it would be an issue
If you use the correct solder and flux, there is no better connection. I imaging if you used an acid flux, there could be a problem later on if it was not cleaned after soldering and I have never heard of acid flux being recommended for electrical connections.
As far as factory connections being crimped, that is somewhat due to manufacturing methods and efficiency. Crimping terminals to be inserted into a connector is simply cheaper and faster than soldering
Acid free solder can be used to avoid corrosion.
Still the solder joint should be sealed against the elements even if it is not exposed directly.
(There are crimp connectors that when crimped break open a bladder filled with sealant that surrounds the wiring connection and seals it. I've used these before. Very nice.
Another consideration for a solder joint is possible bias of the electrical signal. Soldering a wire/connection for a light circuit is probably ok but for an O2 sensor not ok. The presence of solder can bias the signal from the sensor and this can cause problems.
JayG in the world of boating which is probably the harshest environment for wire connections the ABYC (American boating council) definitly is against soldering of connections. They recommend a proper crimp connection.
A couple of reasons being that a solder joint is subject to breaking as rest of wire is multistranded and designed to flex, a good crimp is as strong as the wire and there is actually some metal melt joining at crimp, also too easy for an amateur to make a poor or cold solder joint, etc.
Look it up.
RBC
That must be it. The source of the information I posted was from Marine industry. I thought it was something to do with corrosion, but now that you mention it, there was also comment on breakage. I know little about this stuff, just passing on hearsay
Fair enough. I had never heard that before. That actually makes a little sense. That being said, crimping also puts stress on the joint and could cause stress fractures. I would contest that at the crimp point there is some metal melt as there is virtually no heat generated. maybe at the molecular level?
IMHO, a solder joint is much better and stronger than a crimp joint. it joins over a larger area and therefore would be stronger. Crimps are used as they are faster and easier than soldering. I would also tape the wires together as part of insulating the joint
In any case, we are talking about cars, not boats
Excuse me guys but can one of you tell me how the evap canister is removed on a 1999 996 Cab? I have removed the right front wheel and the wheel liner. I have removed the electrical connection located at the top of the evap canister, the other hose attached hose on top and the two hoses on the bottom of the canister. I'm getting resistance when I try to pull the canister straight out towards me. Is the canister on some sort of track or something where I need to push up on it then out? If you guys could answer this, I would appreciate it or if you could point me towards a DIY topic on this. I'm in the process of replacing the Evap canister with its purge valve, the fuel line vent valve on the filler neck and the purge valve just above the alternator. Would appreciate any input. Thanks
The Apollo program switched to crimped wires because of all the problems they had with wiring (Apollo 1 fire) and so did NASA followed suit afterwards. These are not cheap assembly line decisions so might want to do a little more research why proper crimping is a better solution to soldering. Having said that, I use both.
As for the welding of the wires during crimping, this absolutely happens and not on a "molecular" level. A proper crimping will generate enough for so Weld the wires although this might be a side effect of the force used. I have taken factory harnesses apart where it was clearly visible that some welding took place during crimping.
I seriously don't think that crimping 2 wires together will generate enough to heat to actually weld the wire together. For copper it would require approx 1980 F to melt the wire which is required to weld it
Yes a properly crimped connection is airtight and a good connection
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