987 Boxster convertible top sides not tucked in

I think I finally figured out how to solve the problem with my top edges not tucking properly. I've tried multiple times to pull the OEM elastic tighter and move it to the next screw hole. But that has just left me with elastic that no longer has any spring left. And when I pull it too tight, it bunches the top funny and you can tell it is too tight. I knew that I would ultimately need to replace the elastic, but I did not want to pull out sewing needle and thread. And I wasn't sure how I would find the correct replace material. I finally decided to try and use some shock cord that I had lying around. And it seems to have worked perfect. See pictures below. I was able to snake the shock cord up through the threading in the existing joint. And I applied a safety pin by stabbing through both lengths of shock cord. The length of the cord from where it hits the material is about 15 cm to the end of the loop. 30 cm of total exposed shock cord length. The cut length pf the cord prior to install was around 40 cm. I recommend burning the exposed ends of the ford before install to avoid unraveling. I was able to hook the cord around the existing mounting screw in the top frame, and I tightened the screw down a bit to lock the cord in place. I've played around with this problem for years, and this is the first time that it works like it probably did from the factory.

Great idea and good to see it works. My solution was just to train the significant other to tuck in the passenger side while i did the drivers side haha.

I just looked and the cord I had handy was 3/32 shock cord and teo wide fit exactly between the threading of the initial stitch.

I cant get my wife to remember to tuck it in, so I knew I had to eventually fix it.

Thanks - I'll have to look into this for my 987.2 . My temporary solution is to reach up and push the top of the rear glass up/out from the inside as I raise the top. That seems to work to pull the sides in for proper closure. I'll have to look more closely to see which part you are modifying, and what it looks like on my car...

I will have to try this one. Sounds easier than slotting each side in.

How did you get access to adjust/reinforce the elastic, did you have to take the top off the rack?

I hand sewed new elastic from Malwart into both sides, and the one that goes from passenger side to drivers side. About $.90 plus labor

My LE was having the canvas on the outside of the bow issue, so I played around with moving the band down a few notches. Problem was there wasn't enough elasticity left in my band - it was either too loose or too tight. Too tight caused the driver side band to snap. So this thread was very timely. Here are my updates / variations: I found some bungee chord at Hobby Lobby (no mention in previous posts where to find it). I cut a 12" section and burned the edges. I used a small wire with a hook to fish the chord thru the strap (pic #2). The length of the exposed chord from the strap to the end of the chord was 4 1/2" (didn't take a pic but in Rrunkle's last pic it would be from the end of the gray strap to the chord outside his finger. I had it pinched tight for my measurement, not in a big loop.) Be sure to put the safety pin on the elastic band side (pic #4) as that is the side AWAY from the top. Be sure to get safety pin into the gray strap (pic #3). I replaced the tiny washer on the screw end with a 1" washer (pic #5). This gives the band something to slip over and stay in place when the tension is off (roof down). IMPORTANT: before removing the screw, put a towel into the compartment so if you drop the screw it doesn't fall into oblivion. Be sure the towel goes all the way out the window (you might get the screw out but drop it before you get it completely out - voice of experience). And don't forget to pull the towel out after you're finished. Worked great. We'll see how it hold up after a few days.

I moved my band 1 notch yesterday; was enough to do the trick. I took some photos in case others want to do this, as it's not entirely obvious on how to access the screw to make the adjustment. The top was in the service position. It's a small torx head-screw (same as most of the trim bolts on this car), but there's not much clearance, so you'll need a stubby torx screwdriver. Don't take the screw off, just loosen it.

Fixed this with 1/2" replacement elastic from Michael's. Cost $2, used needle and thread I had lying around. Simply cut a replacement piece, cut in the notches and then sewed it in. Looks like stock and works just great. This is not a hard project and is immensely satisfying.

You can buy these Bed Bands on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I3VDWY This is QUICK, VERY EASY, ADJUSTABLE, and REQUIRES NO TOOLS. Plus, it's cheap (4 for $13!) . Use two and give a pair to a fellow Boxster owner. Here's what you do - Leave the original elastic in place. Clip one end of the Bed Band to the old elastic as close as possible to where it is attached to the screw. Clip the other end about halfway up the fabric triangle that holds the elastic to the top. Then adjust to the proper length. I adjusted mine where the unused tail portion was about 3.5 inches long (7 inches doubled over and roughly the length of what I can hold in my fist). Works like a charm. If the elastic shock cords tire out in a few years, you can either adjust them tighter or replace them with the spare pair that came in the set.

For folks who find it easier to understand seeing it on video than in photos, the same (add elastic) solution, in video: https://youtu.be/5ZN8ffDBZqc

For those not willing to test their insufficient sewing skills (me), I had a local upholstery shop replace the elastic band. It wasn't too expensive and they've had experience doing this for the local dealer.

Discovered this issue some time ago - suddenly i see driver's side top sticks out. I already imagined a necessary trip to a Porsche workshop, spending time and money :crazy: Gladly Google know the answers.... For a few days i just was helping to tuck by hand - but weekend came and a softop fix time came with it. I understand that i have to adjust that triangular strap: I can stick in my hand and feel the screw - but no way i can get a tool there and operate it - just not enough room - boomer.... After wrestling with it for 10 minutes and trying different top positions to get every millimeter of possible clearance - i notice 2 velcro straps: After undoing them the headliner can be pulled off, hand can be sticked in and and there is a lot of room to do the work: For some reason only hollow centered bit worked for me (t15): I'm glad i've bought in the past a set of various bits shapes - this is a must with the German car. After few minutes all is done: And the tops is back to the perfect position:

Tightening my elastic strap two holes worked for a year or so, but eventually the elastic lost it's elasticity. We bought a pack of bungee cords last week which came with a bunch of 8-12" mini bungees that were about perfect for this. I cut the metal hooks off and melted the edges. We sewed one end to the fabric piece and the other end I just tied a knot in one of the existing button holes so we could adjust the length. Working well right now, hopefully stays that way!

Finally got around to doing this fix. Luckily I have a buddy who is good with a thread and needle. Got a 1 inch elastic band from Michael's, cut it to 6 inches and made 3 adjustment holes. One side worked on the 1st hole, the other on the 2nd hole. Overall took maybe an hour and cost 4 bucks. Looks almost factory.

Also... does anybody know what this is? It's hanging loose on both sides. Seems... normal?

That's the headliner? Seems that should fasten off to something. It also looks possible someone made that themselves (shock cord and shrink-wrap tubing..) Next time my top is half-way up I'll look for it.

I used my old H&M boxers elastic band to get the roof tucked in. Seems that the elastic bands on those boxers last longer than the cotton material. And they're black too...

PSSTTT.... the screw is a T20, not a T15. I've seen it referred to as a T15 in several articles about doing the elastics so I tried a T15. The T15 catches just enough of the splines that it can be used to unscrew the screw and screw it back in, but it's WAY easier to do with the correct size Torx - which seats itself quite securely in the screw Torx socket, making it much less likely the screw is going missing while working with it. I'm guessing some time long ago in a land far away someone posted it was a T15.. and the mistake was started and just continued.

I just did your version of the repair and it worked perfectly and seems really strong. Thanks.

That is my cure, at present. Also, I find that if I stop the closing in the service position, the elastic has time to regroup and it seals into the slot on the frame. Maybe just dumb luck.