10 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDead Battery PITA
Leading reported evidence
Use external 12v battery storage
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used regular 12v car battery, used external 12v battery storage to try to get hood to pop...no joy.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Continue to make sure you're connecting to POS+ first and then NEG- at door second and disconnecting NEG- first and POS+ last so not to flip polarity within voltage regulator or alternator diodes.
Leading evidence: 'Use external 12v battery storage' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect neg- first and pos+ last so not' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used regular 12v car battery, used external 12v battery storage to try to get hood to pop...no joy.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Continue to make sure you're connecting to POS+ first and then NEG- at door second and disconnecting NEG- first and POS+ last so not to flip polarity within voltage regulator or alternator diodes.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Disconnect neg- first and pos+ last so not
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Continue to make sure you're connecting to POS+ first and then NEG- at door second and disconnecting NEG- first and POS+ last so not to flip polarity within voltage regulator or alternator diodes.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
10 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T061123Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Ok so I’m stupid. Hooked my camera power supply on ODBII port in fuse box. Thought power to camera would turnoff via ignition....not...so dead battery.
I’ve tried several ways thru fuse box connector (+) and door hinge (-), can’t pop hood via door jam button or remote. Used regular 12v car battery, used external 12v battery storage to try to get hood to pop...no joy. Tried Porsche trickle charger over night via glovebox 12v connection to get battery recharged. Nope.
Am I doing something wrong? Is a fuse blown preventing this? Or?
I was hoping not to take wheel off to get to emergency trunk release.
Thanks for input
2014 991 coupe
Appears that you verified procedure in owner's manual booklet in glove box. But may want to check it again.
When you've connected an aux. battery to emerg. (+) in fuse box and door hinge (-), have you verified battery power by maybe turning ignition key to position 1 or 2 ?
Continue to make sure you're connecting to POS+ first and then NEG- at door second and disconnecting NEG- first and POS+ last so not to flip polarity within voltage regulator or alternator diodes.
If you're following the procedure in the booklet correctly, then I would read the fuse chart sheet to see and identify if there is actually a fuse for the trunk release.
I’m stumped. Have a Porsche trickle charge and another CTEC one. Just slightly more features than Porsche version.
It says no connection to battery ( light blinks timed out).
I have no cigarette lighter in console. Tried the 12v connection in glovebox and in arm rest. Nope.
Your battery is probably so dead that the trickle charger can't see it at all. In these cases, you connect a 12V battery to the old one, then the charger to that. Yes, it is a pita.
Ya...kinda thought that might be. Looks like I’m jackin tomorrow.
See if I can make that wire more accessible. Saw a rennlist post about that very thing.
Battery. It's probably lost one of the cells. So, it will appear to have a full charge but won't be able to produce full cranking current unless it's 100% topped-off. And, your starter is probably getting 'tired' from cranking to build oil pressure (but, I do that too since starters take a lot less time to R&R than crank bearings.)
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
