20 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHsource for exhast clamp bolts?
Leading reported evidence
Use anti-seize
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Use anti-seize' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace 3 bolts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For cutting off stuck parts, I have used my Dremel tool with cut-off wheels a lot.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used high temp Loctite(not the regular varieties) on the part of thread that goes into the crankcase following the Loctite instructions.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then use the supplied anti-seize for the nuts.I then used a s/s nut+loctite to cover the remaining exposed thread on the stud.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Yes, Ace had stainless steel bolts that worked with the exhaust and cat clamps.
The pair of stove bolts on the clamp between the muffler and catalytic converter. You have to buy new clamps to get the bolts from Porsche. Have to have the rightvsquare base,
I got these last summer, they held up very well over the winter - no visible rust.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0162168
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...N2600000A40000
Now that I know I can get Metric SS carriage bolts, and not deal with the corrosion, that's what I want. Are those at Lowes or Ace? Not here that I saw. Special section?
Yes, Ace had stainless steel bolts that worked with the exhaust and cat clamps. Metric or standard makes no difference as long as you get the correct nut for the bolt. The clamps are not threaded.
Thanks to the posters for finding out what these are. I want to replace the 3 bolts that are holding mufflers in place. And the 6 bolts that hold the headers? I think thats what its called. (the pipe that splits into 3 on both sides, i think exhaust from the engine).
Before replacing the header bolts with stainless steel versions do a quick google on using stainless steel bolts for exhaust applications. SS bolts with SS nuts can gall when heated which means they can fuse together. They also don't have nearly the same tensile strength which means they can snap if over torqued. But for the muffler bolts and clamps the best solution is likely SS bolts with brass nuts to solve the galling problem.
At least that was my conclusion after an hour or two of reading online.
Galling shouldn't be an issue if you use anti-seize compound, which I always do on almost everything living in Wisconsin. Also, if you are able to find stainless hardware of two different crystal structures, the likelihood greatly decreases. I would be cautious of brass because it can a very soft metal that is not very corrosion resistant depending on the specific type.
My experience matches what you read:
After 12 years and 80+ kmi on my 996, the original bolts on the clamps between the cats and the mufflers were badly rusted. I replaced them with hex-head bolts made of Type 316 stainless steel (M10 x 55 mm long, 1.5-mm pitch) and 316 SS nuts, plus 316 SS washers. After just 2000 mi of driving, two of the four nuts were fused to the bolts. The bolts had become so soft that I sheared two of the four bolts apart without too much effort. I believe that a higher carbon content is needed for high-temperature operation.
Next I am trying high-strength Class 10.9 bolts (M10 x 60 mm from McMaster-Carr) with a blue corrosion-resistant zinc plating. Same Class 10.9 with blue coating for the nuts.
High grade steel bolts are not recommended because the hardening makes them more brittle. My 37 year old Anti-seize has never failed me.
Are you by chance one of those poor individuals forced to live oceanside?
LOCTITE Nickel Anti-Seize. Used this stuff on Mannesmann Demag and Krauss-Maffei molding machines for years. I have broken many a bolt using the copper anti-seize in high heat applications as the copper can soften fuse itself to the bolt.
I just go and grab something to cut or chisel them out with. When the time comes to replace them I'll again find something to cut them out with.
=)
An excuse to buy and/or have a cutting torch!
Suggest check out s/s manifold stud kit for the M96.Inexpensive and effective.
Just search EBay for
"M8 x 1.25mm Stainless Steel Extended Exhaust Manifold Studs"
But verify your thread and quantity first !!!!
I used jonsautoshack NAFYYY
similar to:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Piece-M8-...item35d1860d1d
I used high temp Loctite(not the regular varieties) on the part of thread that goes into the crankcase following the Loctite instructions. Then use the supplied anti-seize for the nuts.I then used a s/s nut+loctite to cover the remaining exposed thread on the stud.
This may seem excessive until you do a search on the subject of broken exhaust manifold bolts. Some sad,expensive stories ,so easily avoided!
I have put the anti-seize with nickel on just about everything that gets hot: spark plugs (works great), the three muffler bracket studs (so far so good), and will on my new exhaust bolts.
For cutting off stuck parts, I have used my Dremel tool with cut-off wheels a lot.
I got the SS bolts and nuts from McMaster-Carr. They might be the country's biggest parts supplier, so I hope they're reliable.
I'm near San Jose, so I get a little salt fog, but not much. I use anti-seize with nickel on the new bolts.
Update on the high-strength bolts for the muffler clamp:
After 6 months and 10 kmi, I removed one muffler to access a spark plug. The two nuts on two high-strength bolts on the muffler clamp were much looser than when I installed them. They came loose easily--no bonding together.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
