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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHShould I use thread locker?
Leading reported evidence
Install lower temperature thermostat
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I also installed a new lower temperature thermostat.
Leading evidence: 'Install lower temperature thermostat' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean threads in the block first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
After removing the wp and all the bolts and fortunately the broken one came out easily, I replaced all of them
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IMHO the problem with using Loctite directly on the threads is the lubricity can lead to over-torquing the fastener.Which is why Loctite Green, self-wicking was suggested -unless s/s studs are used.See 7 above.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The technique is simple - used blue loctite on the s/s stud that goes into the block.You may need to chase the threads in the block.The bolts supplied seldom use the full depth of the original threaded hole.
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I used the old bolts and when I changed my WP, I somehow torqued off the head of the last of 7 bolts @ 7.5 ftlbs.
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IMHO the problem with using Loctite directly on the threads is the lubricity can lead to over-torquing the fastener.Which is why Loctite Green, self-wicking was suggested -unless s/s studs are used.See 7 above.
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Suggestion
In the case of the M96 w/p the objective in using the appropriate type of Loctite is to prevent corrosion between the bolts and the blind threaded holes in the block.It may also be necessary to 'compensate' for slightly eroded threads caused by removing corroded fasteners.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The technique is simple - used blue loctite on the s/s stud that goes into the block.You may need to chase the threads in the block.The bolts supplied seldom use the full depth of the original threaded hole.
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I�m changing my water pump and thermostat and wondering if I should use thread locker on the bolts. None of the DIY post I�ve found says one way or the other.
The bolts look like there is residue of blue thread locker.
You'll have people say use anti seize, thread locker, or even silicone. I think what's more important is that you use whatever gets a proper torque reading. Which could be nothing at all.
Buuuuuuuut, I would guess new fasteners and blue loctite since that seemed to work just fine.
+996 on new bolts
I used the old bolts and when I changed my WP, I somehow torqued off the head of the last of 7 bolts @ 7.5 ftlbs.
After removing the wp and all the bolts and fortunately the broken one came out easily, I replaced all of them
I was told no thread locker
I tack-welded all of the bolt heads once they were torqued correctly. I'm not entirely sure how I'll get a grinder in for some of those harder-to-reach bolts...*shrug*
I try to tack-weld every bolt/nut I remove and replace. It's a real time-saver for some things - for example, tack-welding the retention pin after installing new brake pads is both quick and ensures that the pin will not fall out.
I did come to regret the bead of weld around each lug bolt - while welding the bolts to the wheel ensures they won't come loose, I have to grind off and throw away the wheel each time to remove it, and that's getting expensive.
Here's a different angle on the thread-locker question. If there is any chance of corrosion causing future problems, what harm can there be from using green,self-wicking thread locker? That is roughly what Porsche and many other OEMs do with the ME bolts anyway. Just be sure you clean the threads in the block first.
The other option is to use s/s studs instead of bolts if there is clearance. There are several areas of the M96 that can benefit from this - not just w/p. The technique is simple - used blue loctite on the s/s stud that goes into the block.You may need to chase the threads in the block.The bolts supplied seldom use the full depth of the original threaded hole. Use Green for the nut .I usually double nut. Use the largest s/s washer that fits under the nut(s) to distribute the load. Be careful not over torque.
Once you have had to extract a few broken steel bolts and fitted Helicoils/Timserts in difficult locations , you'll appreciate the suggestion ? S/s studs avoids the potential problem. To source the stainless steel studs, just search by the thread size on EBay. You may have to shorten them. Here is an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-944-...lScdTE&vxp=mtr
Jake has a new book with all the torque data.
To remove any old Loctite residue, use: Loctite 768 X-NMS.Be careful & gentle chasing or wire brushing threads in the block -you do not want to remove metal,just clean it-so use a solvent.
Do you apply positive air pressure to the crankcase to keep the metal shavings out?
Maybe, but no one does it as well as our missing photobombing watch lover.
I used some anti seize on the bolts. They all went in nice and easy except that one PITA which I will not be able to get my torque wrench on.
I also installed a new lower temperature thermostat.
Thanks for all the suggestions; I think.
Porsche and other OEMs have made extensive use of MEK coated bolts for decades.
In the case of the M96 w/p the objective in using the appropriate type of Loctite is to prevent corrosion between the bolts and the blind threaded holes in the block.It may also be necessary to 'compensate' for slightly eroded threads caused by removing corroded fasteners. Because of their location, these holes are vulnerable to accumulating sufficient moisture to cause corrosion. Moisture+aluminum+steel is a galvanic combination.The w/p is also exposed to road salt .
IMHO the problem with using Loctite directly on the threads is the lubricity can lead to over-torquing the fastener.Which is why Loctite Green, self-wicking was suggested -unless s/s studs are used.See 7 above.
Anti-seize would be effective in preventing thread corrosion but has not got the weak locking action of Green Loctite.
I wouldn't think any type thread-locker would be necessary on these bolts, but to be safe you could tack weld them like 5CHN3LL says. Maybe safety wire them first then tack weld?
-Jason
just mix up a couple of tubes of JB Weld and smear it all over where the WP meets the block .
don't forget to cover all the bolt heads as well
If you have any extra left, cover the water and oil drain plugs as well
Uh oh...
I thought it was for unicorn tears. I've thread locked, safety wired, tack welded and JB weld massaged everything. Have I made a mistake somewhere?
If you let the pads wear down to the backing plate, you'll be able to tack weld the pads to the rotors. Admittedly, this results in a hit to acceleration, but your brakes will be solid.
OP, this is where you say "blow me, a**holes" and lock the thread.*
*This is the Ireland variant of thread locking. There are other techniques, but the Ireland is a modern classic.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
