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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH987.2 Suspension Coil Spring Pads 3MM OR 6/6.5MM?
Leading reported evidence
Use 0.6"
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Leading evidence: 'Use 0.6"' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust anything' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I’d start about a 1/4 way from full soft and drive it a few times before you adjust anything.
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Suggestion
Yes there are always some washers, but never saw a reason to replace except for concourse cars.
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Suggestion
Since you have everything apart I would suggest replacing the front/rear mounts and bellows along with bump stops if you’re going with a shock that does not have internal bumpstops like B6/B8.
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Suggestion
Since you have everything apart I would suggest replacing the front/rear mounts and bellows along with bump stops if you’re going with a shock that does not have internal bumpstops like B6/B8.
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I recall a discussion but can't find it now.
Replacing stock springs on a 2012 Base
Cayman
with new "R" springs from
Porsche
.
Trying to figure out which "Coil Spring Pads" (Top) I need?
That is what I was thinking, but wanted to compare my thinking with the official answer.
Can't believe 3mm makes any noticeable difference. But then again, ism not a German automotive engineer.
The suspension kit came strut mounts bearings and bump stops.
What else am I likely to need.
I assume some parts just move over from old strut.
EG Rear strut Mount and bumpstop?
Front and rear bellows?
Front Coil Spring Seat (Metal part)?
Etc?
You will need to move over the big washer that is at the top of the strut. It would seem like something that you can get for $5. But they run at least $35 each.
I used the 6mm ones in the back if I recall correctly. Since you have everything apart I would suggest replacing the front/rear mounts and bellows along with bump stops if you’re going with a shock that does not have internal bumpstops like B6/B8. No need to replace the metal washers as they’re not a wear item and replacement cost is ridiculous.
One white line or one yellow line
(colour identification B)
Thickness 3.5 mm
One green line or one blue line
(colour identification B)
Thickness 6.5 mm
What are you trying to accomplish other than a slight lowering? I believe the CR springs are stiffer than the base and when you pair that to possibly worn out struts, you not feel much difference. I went through this exercise last year and opted for the
Suncoast
kit for the
Cayman
R retrofit but also LCA's from and rear. It totally transformed the car when compared to the stock struts that has 65k m miles on them. The
Cayman
R kit is a mated pair that is engineered and tuned together.
I'm doing a full rebuild.
All new arms.
"R" springs
Koni Special Active
struts
New strut mounts,
New sway bar bushings.
New tie rods, drop links, etc.
If it has a bushing or joint it is getting replaced.
(100 k mile rebuild)
Let me know how you like the Special Active Shocks… I have Sports paired with the
R springs
on mine which I love and based on that positive experience went with
Koni
SA’s when I refreshed the suspension on my E90 3 series. Been impressed with their composure on that platform.
Mine is the R /
Koni Sport
combo and I love them as well. I run them on the fairly soft side of things just around town. DO you find the rear shock adjuster to be stiffer to turn than expected?
I went with the
Koni
SA after a conversation with
Koni
technical support.
Since then I talked to a neighbor's son who is an ex-Lambo mechanic now Lambo/High end shop service advisor.
He mentioned that they put
Koni
SA in most of their customers street
Porsche
cars with excellent results.
@N_Jay
I'm planning the same thing. I'm at 85k miles (Base Boxster) and wanting to move over to the Spyder springs/shocks/front sway bar. One thing I found in the Porsche Parts catalog is that #6 below is an upper and lower washer, but the 6 lower has the PASM code with it. So I'm thinking that additional washer is for PASM only and not needed for what I'm doing.
My understanding is that the standard suspension needs both top and bottom washers.
From the usual read of a
Porsche
Parts list, it would mean the
PASM
car as a different bottom washer.
I used 0.6"
The springs sit loose, so I added steel tie wraps to prevent shifting.
I love the way it drives, taught but comfortable.
It is VERY low over curbs. Expect a few scrapes on normal road driving cubs, speed bumps,and steep parking entrances.
I used the thicker ones too. Don’t need to go too low. And yeah you have to be mindful of approach angles.
Love the ride and handling.
I ended up at the softer end on the konis. I’d start about a 1/4 way from full soft and drive it a few times before you adjust anything. They definitely “broke in”.
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