Help: Going from Double DIN head unit to Single DIN. What do I need?

My 2003 C4S came with a double-DIN head unit and Bose (with MOST). It never had a single-DIN head unit. This: When I bought the car, the previous owner had already removed the Bose amp and installed a double-DIN head unit (and amp) and replaced a few of the Bose speakers. This: I want to do something counter-intuitive and go for a less sophisticated single-DIN head unit that's modern with BT audio. I don't want the big screen I have now (above). I want to rearrange my equipment like so: These pics are from the internet and are of a Boxter, but the execution is exactly what I want to do except I'll use a modern single-DIN head unit: I'll either have double-cubbys because I'm always in search of somewhere to store stuff in the car. Or, I'll go for the GT3 center console delete to get more leg room. I haven't decided yet, but I need to get the hard part sorted first. What parts do I need to convert this car, that never had single-DIN, to using single-DIN? Internet and forum searches all have info about the other way around (single to double). I can't find a source to explain how to go from double to single. Please forgive me if this has been covered before (I'm pretty sure it has...somewhere). If it has, please provide a link to it. PS I'm also gonna reroute my seat-heater buttons to the center console where the dummy blanks for the non-existant rear windows are. It makes more sense for the seat heater buttons to be there...near the seats that are getting the heat. Also, it makes use of the dummy buttons and turns them into something useful.

You will need the single DIN front and rear support frame (part # 11, 13, and 20). Be extra careful when ordering and make double sure you're getting the correct part ordered. This is because some of these parts are painted or have wood or carbon fiber treatment and that comes at a significant cost. The basic part (satin black) is cheap. Link: https://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-...section=809-02 Support Frame: Porsche part# 9965522311101C Radio (rear support) Bracket: Porsche part# 99655267303 Climate Control Back Support Porsche Part# 99657350100

Thank you so much, @ZuffenZeus!! I'm ordering now.

Parts have been ordered. Some have to come from Germany. I'll report back when I start the reconfiguration and install. It'll be a while to gather everything, including the new head unit.

My (non-MOST) 02 C2 made this switch because I had 2DIN original PCM and wanted console delete. 1) I recommend GT3 console delete without reservation. Gives your eye and your knee a noticeable bit more room 2) You may wish to order seat heater switches for *Boxster*, which�ll have the pictogram in its proper orientation for the new location. Enjoy!

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That's a good idea. I got the idea to move the buttons from looking at a Boxter with heated seats and I did notice that the orientation of the icons were different. If I'm gonna do it, I may as well do it right. I'm sure that I'm not the first person with this idea. I haven't searched around for it, yet. I wonder how difficult it is. If I'll have to splice/extend wires or if the current wiring will work and it's as simple as moving them.

Great thinking. I’m doing the same project to mine and hadn’t worked what to do with the heated seat controls. This solves my problem nicely!

My car needed 3 wires extended for each heater switch. No idea what difference MOST might make. Until I weld the sunroof shut and commission a Pasha interior, this GT3 console/2DIN to 1/ seat switches *between the seats* mod is sure to be my favorite change to the car.

I did this on my car years ago with Boxster switches from ebay. You will need to extend wires.

I'm strongly considering having a stereo shop that I trust do the reconfiguring of the center stack and rerouting of the switches. While I'm ultra-careful as the owner of an old car, they have literally thousands of hours of experience dealing with such. And I'm sure that having them extend the wires for the seat heater switches would be nothing for them. I'm over 6ft/185cm and was driving the other day and noticed my leg leaning agains that center console and thought, "Man, it would be nice to have that be open...". Also, it really looks like the dashboard was originally intended to end at the bottom of the horseshoe, keeping the same horizontal line with the steering column area and the glove box. It's a really clean look: Pic from the internet: But, damn, that OEM GT3 center console delete is like $1,000USD...what the hell??

UPDATE: The parts came in...and I immediately realized that I needed 2x Climate Control Back Support Porsche Part# 99657350100, not just one. On a related note, I visited two local Porsche dealerships and they can't find the T20 screws that I need to affix all of the internal stuff. So, I bought some similar sheet metal screws from a hardware store. Works just fine. I have to also order the plastic surround for the climate controls because the shape is different depending on if it's in a top or bottom position in the stack. I was able to get through the conversion and get the new stereo hooked up. The Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM 82 looks the part and sounds great with my current setup using a BOSS CE102 100W amp to drive the subs (that are not Bose anymore). It's a small budget amp, but it's perfect for the job. It's a pretty neat unit. Looks like a cassette player, but it's actually modern...and has a volume ****, which was a requirement for me. The lack of which was the reason why I took the old one out. https://blaupunkt.com/product/frankfurt-rcm-82-dab/ My car is still in pieces. Here is a pic of a 996 cab with the head unit from the internet: Source: https://www.carhifi-store-buende.de/...e-911-typ-996/ I didn't bother with rerouting the seat heater buttons. I don't have the energy to rewire them. Maybe that'll be a project for another day. I did notice how they have separate wiring harnesses, but have a shared ground that binds them together. Also, I have empty buttons on the horseshoe. The seat heater buttons can be rerouted there, as well. Just have to make that common ground longer to fit around the back of the stereo.

I need more help. I disconnected the antenna and didn't pay attention to which color the adapter was affixed to. But, FM reception was never good on the previous aftermarket head unit. So, maybe it was in the wrong place anyway. Can someone tell me which of these is the Radio Antenna?

That's a great looking radio!

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Those are FAKRA connectors and you'll need an adapter to connect to the Blaupunkt. But on the PCM2 the standard FM/AM antenna connection is the Black FAKRA. The blue one connects to the GPS antenna.

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Roger that. Thanks! I have the adapter. I'll update when I get that last part in and button it all up. Oh, and I confirmed that you will indeed need to extend the seat heater buttons to put them where the blanks are by the hand brake lever. They don't extend past the gear shift. If I recall correctly, they have 4-5 wires each. So, extending them would take 16-20 butt/solder connections. Maybe there exists some sort of "extension cord" type extender for situations like this. It'd be neat if that's what the Boxter uses to facilitate this. Also, more efficient because you wouldn't need different wiring looms. Just add the extensions for the Boxters with heated seats.

Oh, and with a stroke of luck, I was able to score double-cubbys and a blank batwing (and the core support that holds them) for $50 shipped from eBay. So, I'm all set for my double-cubby setup and when I decide to relocate the seat heater buttons, as proposed in the initial post above. For those unaware, those cubbys are each over $60USD each new: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/shelf986.html

Done! Thanks, @ZuffenZeus for your help! I did the install myself. Old vs New pics attached. The head unit sounds great (not just placebo effect), the color is almost exactly the same, the font is almost identical, the button shapes are very similar. I'm very happy. Also, no more glare (see pic). And the best part is that I can rest my hand on the gear shift and feel for the volume kn0b while keeping my eyes on the road. One note: (For the uninitiated), because I relocated the climate control from the bottom to the top, I also needed a different trim piece (996-552-677-01-01C) to go around it. Note how the top area is a plain rectangle and the very bottom has a taper to it. I do have one problem. Something is going on with the antenna. I had the same lack of FM reception on two head units. This leads me to believe that something is wrong with the antenna wire, either broken or disconnected at the other end or something else. I've never had such an issue on a car before. Maybe I'll visit the car stereo place that I frequent and ask them for advice. Old Double-Din vs New Single-Din:

Oh, and I took a gamble and did not install the external mic. I was gonna route it to the spot on the left side of the instrument cluster. My laziness paid off because on my test call during the shakedown ride the head unit's built-in mic performed flawlessly...even with windows down and sunroof open! I attribute that to Blaupunkt being a higher quality head unit using higher quality parts than the previous BOSS system which had terrible quality via the built-in mic.

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Let me know if you want to sell your double din trim pieces? I have a 04 and dislike the stock Porsche Bose system. Plan on installing higher end unit and speaker upgrades

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I'm gonna hold on to everything except for the BOSS head unit for now. They are worth more to me to have in case I want another double-din unit in the future than the few bucks I'd sell them for. The parts that you'd be getting from me would be less than $200 new from your local dealership (probably cheaper at other retailers)...and you'd get them faster than if I shipped them to you.

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Forgot to mention, the PCM2 used the black and yellow FRAKA cables to provide true dual diversity reception. I think there might be an antenna booster that's inline too. That may explain your problem. One idea is to try to use an antenna splitter to the two FRAKA cables that connect to the standard mono antenna connection on the Blaupunkt. With booster: Amazon Amazon Without booster: Amazon Amazon

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This is worth a shot. Thanks!

@ ZuffenZeus, thanks! Both worked but, as you might expect, the one with the power worked better. My reception isn't great for all stations, but it's great for some and OK for others. I think this is because I need to position the antenna wires better when I'm stuffing everything in there. When I had it all out for testing before I stuffed it in, every station worked great. I plugged the powered one to the Yellow and Black antenna Fakra cables and tapped switched 12v power from the unused cell phone plug that I pulled up from below to be behind the stereo.

Nice install and good looking unit . Question - when you were researching single DIN options did you consider a Continental bluetooth compatible unit ? Seems to be a comparable unit in regards to look/color/***** . I want to install a single DIN in my 99 C4 and have it narrowed down to the Conti or the Frankfurt .

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The Blaupunkt has double the power output (4x50W vs 4x25W). I can't explain the science behind it, but even though I wouldn't play either at max volume, comparing head-to-head, the one with the higher wattage always sounds better.

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4 x 25W is based on DIN 45324 standard measurement. Most manufacturers use RMS or continuous power measurement. While the peak is 50W, the unit can provide a continuous power output to the speakers at 25W per speaker output.

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Does your Porsche have an amplifier in the frunk? If so, you'll want the Blaupunkt because it offers pre-amp output that can be easily adapted to integrate with the car's factory amplifier. This has been one of the big draw-backs with the Continental units. Unless something has changed with this company, their stereo units are designed to operate via SPEAKER LEVEL output only.

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Thanks for the info!

I'm looking to install the Blaupunkt in a 2002 turbo, Bose, Non-MOST car. Would anyone know what harnesses are needed? The metra harness suggested by @ZuffenZeus claims to not fit my car, and a different one is recommended. Also, on the CDR 220, one of the FAKRA is for the CD changer. I am assuming I lose that now? Thanks all.

Got it all figured out. I did order the metra harness referenced above for the red connector with amp connection. Tapped into switched power on the radio harness to power the factory amp. Had to slightly shave the plastic housing frame to fit the cage but otherwise simple plug and play. I did use the mic and ran it to the factory location on the left of the instrument cluster. Very happy with the results. And yes, you lose the d changer as the Frankfurt doesn't have input/control for it.