Boxsteri 987 interior LED these bulbs you will need

Hello Fellas, I've been trying to find out Which bulbs would I need if going to replace originals with led -thread for a week now. Did not succeed so I took a look to my car's lights to figure out the needs and this is what I found. Hopefully this will help some of you. I am using only well-known brands because I do not want to put any chinese crap to my pride-and-joy: 1) The Footwell and the Glove compartment: 3 bulbs together, I used Philips T10 w5w interior white light 4000K Comment: Quite time-consuming to change because you have to open the little metal box which contains the bulb before you can replace it. You can take the whole assembly out by pulling the clip off the assembly. There are release buttons to separate the assembly and wire 2) Map reading light 1 bulb using Philips T10 w5w interior white light 4000K Comment: Open the light lid from the right side of the edge with very small screw driver very carefully not to break anything. Take a look at the manual to find out the excact place. Not very difficult just be patient. The bulb is behing a black round assembly you have to turn to open and then lift the two little metal pieces a bit to release the bulb. 3) Door lights 2 bulbs one on each side. I used OSRAM Cool blue intense Xenon Look up to 4000K because the T10 will not fit. Comment: Easy to do. Just pull gently the light cover outwards of the door to get to bulb 4) Compartment front and back 2 bulbs together: I used Osram LEDRIVING 41 mm bulb Comment: Very easy to replace. IF the bulb is not working just swap it around it's place All this took 3 hours of work but it was worth it. The costs of the kit was around 70 euros. More expensive that most of Plug and play -kits but cheaper than the Suncoast kit which would have cost me 170 euros incl. shipping. Save the originals as next owner maybe will respect as original car as possible. Hope this will help!

Good thread! the LED interior lights is cheap way to upgrade the interior of your car.

I replaced all of my interior lights over the past couple of weeks as well. All of the interior bulbs are 194/T10/5W5/168 (basically all interchangeable), and thankfully, none of them are tied to the Canbus system. Initially, I was planning to use Philips Vision 194 bulbs everywhere (5000K color temperature, which is a pure white, with no yellow or blue tinge). They're great lights, but are roughly as bright as stock, and I wanted something brighter, so here's what I ended up using: - Philips Vision 194 in the doors - the door lamp housings are shallow and the bulb hole is narrow, so most LEDs (which are typically wider or longer than incandescent 194 bulbs) won't fit. The beautiful things about the Philips bulbs are that the light is omnidirectional, and the bulb is about the same dimensions as the stock incandescents, so there are no fitment issues. At 40 to 50 lumens, they're about as bright as stock. I would have preferred a little brighter, but the color temperature is whiter, so it makes the interior seem more modern and still feels like an upgrade. - JDM Astar 194 bulbs in the footwells - JDM Astar has a variety of 194 bulbs available. They're rated as 6000K bulbs, but they look pure white, and are more accurately closer to 5000K. The ones I picked are bright! 220 lumens compared to the 40 to 50 lumen Philips. The footwells are bathed in bright white light now - it's so bright you could read a book in the footwells. My only minor nit is that the bulb design doesn't have an omnidirectional housing, so you can see a tiny bit of banding in places where the LEDs reflect onto the carpets. But I didn't want the much lower brightness of the Philips, so I think it's an acceptable tradeoff. I might eventually replace them if I find something that's brighter than the Philips but with more omnidirectional output, but the banding is minimal and I'm already used to it, so there's no rush. - VLED low profile 194 in the map light - The map light housing is pretty shallow. Most aftermarket LEDs will fit, but if they have any front facing diodes, they'll be too close to the plastic on the lamp housing, and may cause the lens plastic in proximity of the LED to melt. I could have used the Philips bulbs here (I verified they fit and look decent), but again wanted brighter light, so I ended up installing a VLED low profile 194 bulb. It has a single front facing diode, and is nearly twice as bright (at 90 lumens) as the Philips bulbs. It casts a nice bright spot light on the steering wheel and center console without being overbearing on the rest of the interior. The footwell lighting is so bright that you don't need a super bright overhead map light. It took some experimentation, but overall, I'm really pleased with how everything turned out.

I just replaced all of my Cayman 's interior lights with LEDs for about $10 worth of ebay parts. The items needed are: 2x T10 door courtesy lights 2x T10 rear hatch side lights 2x T10 foot well lights 2x T10 dome lights 1x 41mm for the front trunk 1x 41mm for the rear hatch 2x 41mm for the license plate lights Do not buy any of the " Cayman LED " kits. I bought one and it wasn't even remotely correct and the lights did not fit in the bulb housings. The T10 lights need to be short enough so they don't interfere with the bulb housings. I bought the ones on ebay by searching for something like "T10 5730 8 LED SMD White". They look like this: The 41mm bulbs need to be narrow so they don't interfere with the metal tang that holds one side of the bulb. If you're clever you can modify one of the larger 24 LED bulbs to fit.

The risk with Ebay LEDs is that you get what you pay for...I paid more for a pair of bulbs than you paid for all of your interior lights, but I was optimizing for quality and light output. One word of caution. Those T10s look like they have Canbus resistors, which get extremely hot, especially in small, tight housings. Canbus bulbs aren't required for the interior in our cars. If your interior lights are left on for any amount of time, check the bulb housings for signs of overheating or melting. You should be ok, since interior lights are usually on for short periods at a time.

They are current limiting resistors for the LEDs, you can't put 12V directly on an LED without it popping. I guarantee that every LED "bulb" out there has resistors in it. These bulbs are rated at 200 lumen. I have no idea objectively what that means. Subjectively they are really really bright. There is a bit of light banding in the footwells. Also, the total power for the stock incandescent bulb is 4.32 watts: The total power for the LED bulb is 1.8 watts, significantly less than the stock bulbs. No danger of melting: There isn't really any "you get what you pay for" with this sort of thing. LEDs are LEDs are LEDs, ones like these are about $0.17 in quantity . Surface mount resistors will be .001 cents no matter how you look at it. Tiny pieces of mass produced FR4 assembled in china are equally cheap.

Nice. Definitely lower power draw on those. I stayed under either 1 or 2 watts for all of mine as well, just going by the manufacturer specs. It'll be interesting to test out the longevity of the ones we both selected. On the surface, LEDs might be LEDs , but keep in mind that how the bulbs are designed and assembled affects quality as well. A picture is worth a thousand words. Here's are a couple of examples from the JDM Astar site of how construction quality differs between quality and non-quality brands: Even on two bulbs that look nearly identical, the design quality may also differ considerably. Design considerations include: - how close to their rated power the diodes are being driven (the closer to max tolerance, the hotter the chips will burn and the more quickly they'll eventually burn out), - the circuit board and IC design (which is hard to assess when you're buying the bulb) - how durable the housings are (I've read reports of boards like the kind you showed falling apart or breaking on installation) - how well they dissipate heat away from the diodes (aluminum circuit boards and/or sinks work the best in this regard, and help to prolong LED lifespan) - how well the diodes are soldered onto the boards (I've read multiple instances of cheap Ebay lights having their diodes fall off due to vibration, poor soldering, etc.) - how optimally the diodes are arranged to throw out an even spread of light On the last point, bulbs like the Philips Vision 194 are great because they have a reflector housing that distribute light very evenly. In terms of surface mount designs, of all of the bulbs I used on my car, I'm really impressed with the diode arrangement on the JDM Astar bulbs I used in my footwells and city lights. Again, a picture being worth a thousand words: Notice how well designed it is, with the integrated aluminum heat sink and circuit board. More importantly, see how they've packed a number of narrower LEDs around the entire circumference of the bulb and radially on the front. This gives you a noticeably larger more even light spread and wider envelope of light than bulbs that use fewer, larger diodes with bigger gaps in their placement. These 194s look fantastic in my city light housings. Overall, I paid about $35 for all of my interior lights - there are only 6 of them. The extra $25 is well worth the difference to me in terms of bulb quality and design. Unfortunately, some amount of light banding in the footwells seems to be unavoidable if you're using bulbs with exposed surface mount LEDs. The Philips bulbs I referenced earlier have a translucent cover over the diodes that puts out an even spread of light. Unfortunately, I didn't like them in the footwells because they were only as bright as stock and I wanted something brighter. On the JDM Astar, the banding comes from the aluminum heatsink/circuit board lines. An idea I'm mulling is re-opening the footwell lamp housings and lining the back metal surface with aluminum foil (shiny side up). The LEDs I'm using have surface mount LEDs all around the circumference of the bulb, and my thinking is having some more of the rear facing light reflecting back through the housing at a slightly different angle may take care of the banding. Out of curiosity, which bulbs did you use for the license plates and frunk? Are they canbus compatible? I don't know if you're aware, but a search of this site suggests that the frunk light is weirdly wired. It won't throw a canbus error if you use a standard LED replacement, but the low current draw will drain your battery in short order. Apparently, there is an error that shows up on PIWIS or Durametric, but it doesn't generate a dashboard notification.

I've gotten all the bulbs replaced on my 2010 with LEDs (except for the frunk for fear of the mentioned warnings). I had an extra bulb and figured I'd put it in the glovebox, and it...uh...doesn't work? Flipped it both ways and no light. Put the incandescent back in and it works fine. The bulb holder looks weird in that it's got a little diode in it. Not sure what's going on there. Anyone else have this issue?

Gubi, I suspect that one LED bulb is defective (it's luck of the draw sometimes). Try it in another location to verify that the bulb works. If it doesn't, the bulb is the problem. If it does light up, I'm not sure what the problem is.

Bulb tests good at the bench. I'm stumped.

Okay, I figured it out: the bulb I'm using is a slightly different shape than the other ones and wasn't making a good connection. Bent it a bit and now it works. Duh. The bulb holder in the glovebox is different than the other ones, though. It's got a zener diode in it, which apparently cuts the voltage the bulb sees to about 11V. This must be to keep the glovebox bulb a bit dimmer.

I just wanted to report back that I was completely wrong and Cayman S was correct. The cheap EBay bulbs I got are complete crap and 4 of the 10 in my car are currently flickering badly. I expect the rest will fail given long enough. I'm looking to replace them with the Philips or Samsung bulbs now! Lesson learned Since I can't edit my previous post, do NOT buy these:

Thanks for providing a long term update, Fizzyl. It's helpful for all of us to be able to learn from each others experiences. On my side, I can report that my Phillips, JDM AStar and VLED bulbs are still going strong! There's no flickering, no discernable dimming, etc. I think you'll be happy with the better quality LEDs once you make the switch.

I guess color is a matter of taste. I much prefer the whiteness of 4000K over the blueness of 6000K. The bulbs below are perfect fit, color, and intensity...plus they are name brand quality bulbs. I spent $90...but I'm guessing I wont have problems down the road. Doors, Footwells, Map Light, and Glove light: Philips Xtreme Vision 360 LED 4000K T10 $10 each online Trunk and Frunk OSRAM LEDriving 360° 41mm Warm White 4000K SV8.5-8 $15 each online from UK delivered I couldn't find the equivalent 4000K bulb in the US. OSRAM is Sylvania in the US, and the Sylvania bulbs all appear to be 6000K. I found the 4000K in the UK online.

Thanks for the knowledge.