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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSemi-Urgent Tensioner Roller Woes
Leading reported evidence
Tighten bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I mistakenly turned the 24mm counter clockwise and assumed I somehow loosened or tightened the bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner.
Leading evidence: 'Tighten bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace belt' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So I am replacing the belt because the old one looks a bit worn.
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Suggestion
You need a 1/2" 6 point quality socket on a breaker bar to make belt change an easy job like it is.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Trying to run which direction to turn things to tighten up that rear bolt without going to the drastic next step.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Tightening the bolt on the back got her back into order.
Tighten bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I mistakenly turned the 24mm counter clockwise and assumed I somehow loosened or tightened the bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hello everyone! So I am replacing the belt because the old one looks a bit worn. Probably unnecessary but now it�s left me in a pickle.
My tension roller (yellow) doesn�t want to move left to release tension to install a new belt on the final roller (green).
I�ve seen several videos where a clockwise turn moves it an inch or more to the left.
Mine moves maybe 1/4 of an inch.
Before you ask:
✔️Yes I�ve tried a longer breaker bar.
✔️The belt is the same length as the old one.
✔️I�ve ensured the correct routing order.
*My guess* is I may have somehow tightened the roller pulley and now it�s got less range than it should.
If so�how do I loosen the pulley?
Could it have something to do with the bolt in the middle being too tight (I did mistakenly turn the nut counter clockwise)
If not, can anyone for the love of everything holy please point me in the right direction?
Thanks a ton in advance!
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1179x1131/img_9054_6f854acf9c4d9efc965df7bb70afcee0ce2bb08d.jpeg
Is the bolt spinning? I seem to remember mine slightly rotated a little when I was taking the belt on and off. Also I recall mine took a long bar to make it easy to loosen the tension off. Be careful it doesn't slip though as the end of the car can hit the car body depending on which orientation you have it
It takes considerable force to move the roller over. You definitly need a bar and socket, not just a wrench. The roller is mounted on an arm that connects to a spring at the front facing side of the bracket in the attached image. Getting to that spring is pretty involved.
Okay, so it�s more than simply pushing down clockwise with a bar? It requires lateral force towards the driver�s side?
I mistakenly turned the 24mm counter clockwise and assumed I somehow loosened or tightened the bolt (4)�which limited lateral movement of the tensioner.
Nope - it's just pushing down, clockwise. If you loosened the nut, you'll definitely need to tighten it or it will just spin. That would normally require heat to loosen the red loctite on the bolt but I had that happen to me too. It takes a "thin" 15mm wrench to get behind the assembly to bite on the bolt and then your socket and bar on the front to really tighten. I had to grind down an open end wrench to fit behind the roller.
thanks�
I turned it on and the thing moved left but barely and then my bar was all the way to the body.
Found a set of wrenches that fit back there, maybe I over tightened it then? These things are a mystery. Ugh.
Wow! This isn�t rocket science guys�
It�s pretty obvious which way the tensioner needs to move to relieve the tension on the belt. It�s always a good idea to use a �breaker bar� for a little extra leverage� Good luck
This video (3:00) is a good example. They just move the thing with a wrench and all the tension is gone. My tensioning pulley doesn�t do this. It hardly swings on the arm.
You Tube
Because the effing bolt-nut combo is now slipping. All of your applied force is now spining the nut with none left applied to moving the right angle lever.
Step 1: Curse the design engineer out loud.
Step 2: remove the alternator, remove the filler tube, reach back with an M5 (or M6, cannot be sure) and remove the allen head nut (number 5 on that diagram) at the center of the round spring housing. Pry the right angle arm (number 3 on that diagram) with the pulley attached (pry toward the back of the car). It slides off.
Step 3: replace the pulley and the 15mm bolt at the back of the right angle arm. Have the 15mm bolt WELDED to the arm so it cannot move or spin.
Step 4: reverse the process and install your belt.
Step 5: Curse the design engineer out loud.
This seems logical but definitely not good news!
Was trying to figure out which way to hold/turn (2 & 6) to return the dang thing back to where it came from.
I like Yelcabs advice...,lol...you should also be aware that the shaft/arm is probably corroded/seized to the bushings ( #7 in the diagram) ...If you are getting 1/4" movement you are doing better than most....Spray some penetrating oil on the shaft/bushings and work it back and forth untill you get the required movement...
Thanks! Trying to run which direction to turn things to tighten up that rear bolt without going to the drastic next step. It was working fine before I turned the 24mm counterclockwise instead of clockwise�
If it were me, I'd change out the stripped tensioner fastener in your pic.
With it stripped like that from your 12 point wrench, probably will not ever be able to get the right leverage on it. If you can now, then likely at the worst time in a emergency belt replacement, not able to move the tensioner because of the stripped head. And once it completely strips out, it will be a bear to change.
Might have to hammer a 6pt socket on there the way its all rounded off...
You need a 1/2" 6 point quality socket on a breaker bar to make belt change an easy job like it is. That 'nut' is really just a hollow bolt with female threads that screws into a regular bolt in back. If you order a tensinor pulley it comes with both new bolts/nuts that have thread lock already on them. The back bolt isn't replaceable without taking a few more things apart. But no need to replace that back bolt, as long as you don't strip it out. Got to use a thin head wrench and iirr, let it go as far as it can to the side where it rest on something then you can remove your stripped nut in front of the tensor without even holding that back bolt, other than keeping the wrench flat on the bolt head. Do NOT try and use that 12 point wrench in your picture.
While its all apart do exactly as PT3 suggests, because thats your base problem here, the bushing and shaft of the spring are corroded and not allowing proper range of the tensor. wd40 will work wonders here.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...102-117-00-HBT
This pointed me in the right direction!
Tightening the bolt on the back got her back into order. Fortunately it�s just a bit scratched so the standard socket was able to grip and create enough leverage.
Pro tip: don�t crank the 24mm bolt counter clockwise or it will loosen the retaining bolt in back.
