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YOUR RESEARCH6mm wheel spacers - new bolts or not?
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The supplier's blurb says original bolts are fine and confirmed this in an email to me when I checked prior to buying.
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Use original porsche bits or tuv approved stuff etc etc
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company look at spacer/bolt and refuse to pay out as you hadn't followed or used original porsche bits or TUV approved stuff etc etc
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Bought a pair of these for the rear axle and have fitted them. Subtle but worthwhile improvement and fills the arches nicely. The only question on my mind is the bolts. The supplier's blurb says original bolts are fine and confirmed this in an email to me when I checked prior to buying. Ive fitted them and bolts are now nice and tight. Not a great amount of turning required to fit them though and am just a little concerned that longer bolts ought to have been fitted.
Here is the site and the product (scroll down for 996 stuff though the same product is available for other 911s).
http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/wheel_spacers_shims_for_porsche.html
Thoughts welcome!
to be honest I dont know, know of 2 and 4 mm spacers that do not but at 10 you do
I would say yes to be on the safe side
note overall you have widened your track 12mm in total
what did the place you bought it from say ?
[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.]
https://911uk.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fusers.skynet.be%2Ffa032321%2Fm030%2Fdeleted.jpg&hash=101290c878a95d65ef14e7fddfa13300
agreed, use longer bolts, say a wheel comes off at high speed, car gets totalled,
insurance
company look at spacer/bolt and refuse to pay out as you hadn't followed or used original porsche bits or TUV approved stuff etc etc
The largest load is taken by the first thread, next largest by the second etc. and goes something like this:
The green part is the nut and the grey the bolt. It's showing the distribution of load from one thread to the next. The first engaged thread has 34% of the load the next 23% to the 6th having 7%. It's showing there is little to be gained in having more than 6 threads engaged. This is because the bolt stretches elastically, so the first thread takes a disproportionately large load.
The above is only approximate as it depends on the tensile strength of the bolt material, the pitch of the thread and bolt diameter. Obviously for a very fine thread on a large diameter bolt more threads will be needed to reach maximum tensile capacity, whereas with a coarse thread on a narrow bolt only a few threads are needed.
This is where the rule of thumb about the diameter plus one thread came in but even that is not reliable because of the grade of bolt tension e.g. 8.8, 10.9 etc (the number often seen on a bolt head or stamped into the nut edge). A high tensile bolt won't stretch much for the same tensile force, so the force will spread more evenly between the threads, so there will be an advantage in having more threads engaged. A low tensile bolt less threads etc.
It is a bit geeky I know! :lol:
Here's a web-calculator which calculates the effective length of bolt thread engagement
http://www.tribology-abc.com/calculators/e3_6e.htm
Select the bolt tensile strength and diameter and click Solve. It will likely end up slightly over the diameter. If in doubt then 6 or 7 turns should be enough!
Once you know how many turns you need, take out a bolt, grease it up and then re-tighten it. Take it out again and you should be able to see how many threads are engaging, you can then work out if you need longer bolts or not, but I suspect you will, they make them that size for a reason!
I like elrao's diagram and yes it does make absolute sense. If Porsche make an elongated bolt (5mm) as already discussed I would fit them if it were my car.
The last thing you want is to loose a wheel on a fast bend.
As they say better safe than sorry
