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YOUR RESEARCH996 brake pads for HPDE recomendations?
Leading reported evidence
Use half worn stock pads
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I used the half worn stock pads on my first track day, because I didn't know any better, and they worked out fine (except for the brake wear sensor coming on after my third and final run).
The Shims/dampers/isolators are easily removed by just slipping a gasket scrapper down between the pad and the Shim to separate them, they have a special high temp adhesive that can be re-used many times if you don't get it dirty...If you don't have a gasket scaper you can even steal one of your Wife's butter knives to separate the shim from the pads, takes just a min and no need to dissemble he whole caliper when changing pads...
Leading evidence: 'Use half worn stock pads' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace pads' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I've used Pagid Yellow/Black and currently use PFC 08's on both ends.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was pretty sure that since I'm changing wheels I might as well change pads.
The Shims/dampers/isolators are easily removed by just slipping a gasket scrapper down between the pad and the Shim to separate them, they have a special high temp adhesive that can be re-used many times if you don't get it dirty...If you don't have a gasket scaper you can even steal one of your Wife's butter knives to separate the shim from the pads, takes just a min and no need to dissemble he whole caliper when changing pads...
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Suggestion
Need to replace my pads and want to slip in a few track days throughout the year.
The Shims/dampers/isolators are easily removed by just slipping a gasket scrapper down between the pad and the Shim to separate them, they have a special high temp adhesive that can be re-used many times if you don't get it dirty...If you don't have a gasket scaper you can even steal one of your Wife's butter knives to separate the shim from the pads, takes just a min and no need to dissemble he whole caliper when changing pads...
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Suggestion
I used the half worn stock pads on my first track day, because I didn't know any better, and they worked out fine (except for the brake wear sensor coming on after my third and final run).
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used the half worn stock pads on my first track day, because I didn't know any better, and they worked out fine (except for the brake wear sensor coming on after my third and final run).
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Doing 4 Sebring HPDE events this fall.
I'm not solo yet but getting closer.
Stock brakes were getting soft on me at last Sebring event I attended.
2001 coupe.
All stock.
Fresh bleed before every event. High temp fluid already in use.
Willing to put on track only pads cause I have track only wheels/tires that I'm putting on for the events.
Car is a daily driver.
Looking for recommendations for better fade free performance.
Looking at pagid yellow front black rear. Endurance compound.
Would like to keep stock rotors
HELP!
I am in the same situation. Going to do some tracking and need a step up from OEM. Will follow this topic
I heard good feedback from Tarox F2000 discs with
Ferodo DS2500 pads. So it might be my next upgrade.
Wondering if I should look for different combo in front compared to rear?
Ok. Looking at the EBC. sure like the price. Seems to be an appropriate application. But here's a stupid question. Is the price for one corner? Both sides? Help out a newby/noob.
Brake pads are typically priced per axle - two sets of the same size - since front/rear are normally different sizes.
The most important part - fresh brake fluid - you already have covered...
Summit racing will beat other online vendors by $1, so shop around to find the best $$. You can even have different vendors for each axle.
As 5CHN3LLy mentioned. Pads are sold in sets per axle
If you are doing the rotors, look at Meyle rotors on ebay. You can sometimes find them for around $75-$80 per PAIR!
Brake pads are super easy to change. It takes longer to jack up the car and remove the wheels than it does at actually swap out pads.
I have 3 sets. 1 for DD, 1 for AX and 1 for track
AX=auto cross? Got it. Thx already for the help everyone. I was pretty sure that since I'm changing wheels I might as well change pads. Looks like y'all are already saying go that direction. More input please. I need advice!!!!!
Doing my fronts this wkend. Street use only for '04 4S. Porsche pads, spring clip set, bolts, dampers. About $350 door to door from Suncoast. Rotors have a hair of a lip but not replacing this time.
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I have PFC-08 and Hawk DTC-70. Both are very good pads with a lot of bite.
Also, you can permanently remove your dampeners and zip tie back you pad sensors. Make me changing out the pads a snap. Just swapped mine last night.
Good call. I've used Pagid Yellow/Black and currently use PFC 08's on both ends. And I keep them on for street as well - practically no squeal (your milage may vary). But either of those pads stop you really well !! Track tested!
Pagid and PFC are tried and true. I'm using pagid yellow up front (rs29) and black in the rear (rs14). I like the stagger. Our cars are front brake biased. If you cooked your OE pads you might need to bleed your brakes again.
Slakker
What's it like leaving the dampeners off?
Like I said. This car is a daily driver. But I definitely see the advantage time wise of leaving them off. I'm going to be doing this every month for a while.
That's the recommendation my coach gave me too. That's 3 now for that setup including the previous post. Gonna research PFC too. Never heard of them till today. (Told u I'm new)
No difference at all. I've converted one of mine back to a pure DD, including stock suspension, but there was no reason to reinstall the dampeners. I still have them though to reinstall in case I ever sell. It will be easier than trying to explain why they aren't there.
I've spent a number of years with the Performance Friction (PFC) race pads. They are excellent on the track with minimal noise on the street. They are hard on rotors and make a great deal of dust. Overall excellent pads!
If your just starting out and want a higher performance pad without going to a race pad, I recommend you look at a "High Performance Steet" pad. Several companies make this type of pad. They will give you better life, better feel and less fade than a pure street pad without the extreme characteristics of a race pad. Pagid, Cool Carbon and others make good options.
Are Pagid Rs19 and 29 still a top recommendation in 2024? Need to replace my pads and want to slip in a few track days throughout the year. Use on canyon roads as well. No daily driving. Tires will proabably be PS4s for canyon and RE71rs for track (diff wheels). Not looking for fastest lap times, but want to still push and have fun and learn best braking points. I didn't account for $800 in pads...oops... Or realizing pad opinions are almost as contended as Oil opinions
I liked DTC60, they were economical and from an actual performance standpoint - I’m not sure I could get meaningfully better performance or feel from one of the more expensive options. I would add that the most beneficial braking mod for me was 100% the GT3 master cylinder, would be a shame to spend a lot on nice pads to still have the squishy non confidence inspiring pedal feel.
I used them when I was still driving to and from the track and thought they worked fine on the street despite being advertised as a track only pad.
One thing I see Track Rats and DIY'ers do that is a mistake is to throw away the shims/dampers/isolaters that are Factory installed, simply because they don't want to mess with them..
In this thread right up there ^^ Slakker recommends to just throw them away, and in the recient video of the White Swapped 996/LS the guy throws his away because he could get the pads out with the shims/dampers/isolators..
The Shims/dampers/isolators are easily removed by just slipping a gasket scrapper down between the pad and the Shim to separate them, they have a special high temp adhesive that can be re-used many times if you don't get it dirty...If you don't have a gasket scaper you can even steal one of your Wife's butter knives to separate the shim from the pads, takes just a min and no need to dissemble he whole caliper when changing pads...
Not only are they there to keep noise down but also to keep heat from boiling the brake fluid by isolation, and also vibration/noise is a form of energy/heat transfer that the shims are there to reduce...
Yes you can get away without them, but no you should not do it.... it's just to easy to leave them on if you simply know how .........
Bottom line...leave the shims/dampers in place......or better yet replace them with upgraded ones made with Titanium Coating or even Carbon Fiber ones for increased heat reduction..
Are there any more economical options for those of us who just want to go around a track and have fun? I did not comprehend how much of a rabbit hole this is....
Sure u can bring 2 sets of stock pads and change them at lunch. Depending on a lot of different factors a lesser pad is fine at the track. U may have to end a session early and u need to inspect them often to be safe.
I get 20 hard track days from a set of Pagid rsl 29s. When u look at the math its not a huge expense for the comfort of very good breaks.
Yeh, I'm not saying I'd do just stock, but I'm in that mind set of trying not to go too big too soon and maybe save some money in the beginning. I used the half worn stock pads on my first track day, because I didn't know any better, and they worked out fine (except for the brake wear sensor coming on after my third and final run). I was braking pretty hard into the turns from 110mph+. I did have fresh brake fluid though, so at least I had thought about that part...
A friend recommended this company. Website has a easy to read list of Street vs Race pads.
Street
https://www.knsbrakes.com/products/c...eet+Brake+Pads
Race
https://www.knsbrakes.com/products/c...ace+Brake+Pads
Here are your consumables. Pads, rotors, tires, engine oil, and brake fluid.
The more you track your car and the faster you become, the more you will consume. Not to mention the more competitive you may become which means you will look for ways to further shave off lap times with more seat time and upgrading parts. It's just the normal progression. All you have to do is take your time and plan out how much you want to spend over a given season. That will tell you how many events you can do.
I have been doing it for over 20 years. Today, i go out to only a handful of events a year to instruct, maintain my driving skills and get my track fix. This contains my costs. But make no bones about it, if you get the bug, and many of us do, you will be at the track all the time early on, and go thru consumables like candy. But man, there is nothing better than being on the track in your 996.
At this stage, you really dont need to run pagid yellows. Zbomb suggested Hawk DTCs. Hawk makes a great pad for a good price. Take a look.
Thanks I missed that in his post. They look good, though others have commented the Hawks are rough on the rotors, and they are not that much cheaper over all.
I just learned you can lifetime exchange pads at FCP, so the Pagids look more enticing... I still don't get how FCP does that.
Pagig RS-14's seem like a solid mid range option too...
Yeah, any racing pads and more aggressive street pads will chew up the rotors. But thats what you want to slow down. Maybe FCP has a program for that as well. Makes the cost of consumables cheaper. Forgot to mention to get the GT3 brake ducts. Will help cool the brakes. Pretty cheap part.
I got 37 days (about 45 hours) out of my PFC 11's and they were probably still usable, although they looked rough. I'm a slow driver I guess.
Anyone need a well used set of PFC 11's in GT3 front fitment? They have a couple more days left.
People overlook Stoptech Sports because "they're not a real race pad". They aren't the cream of the crop for feel or modulation but they have an obscene temperature range for how cheap they are, I use them on all of my street cars and they will tolerate most peoples' hard driving on track.
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