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YOUR RESEARCHMissfire
Leading reported evidence
Replace but the new one melted within 10mins of
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It was replaced but the new one melted within 10mins of running.
Leading evidence: 'Replace but the new one melted within 10mins of' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check lamp is' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Instead of checking the simple things he bought a secondhand engine and changed it over, only to find that, post change, examination revealed the rotor arm was knocking against one of the segments in the 'strib cap.
Recommend ecu doctor highly enough - he was superb
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also can't recommend The ECU Doctor highly enough - he was superb.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
Instead of checking the simple things he bought a secondhand engine and changed it over, only to find that, post change, examination revealed the rotor arm was knocking against one of the segments in the 'strib cap.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Porsche Club GB: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T201111Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Driving home yesterday and lost at least one cylinder, coincidentally when I put the air con on. The engine check lamp is on now. No smoke or steam or leaks. Thoughts? I cant think of much I can do until I can get it on a diagnostic machine.
Orcam's razor, investigate the easy things first, so like Sam Quick says, investigate coil packs and plugs. We have an example of a 944 reg member, I will spare him the embarrassment, who videoed a horriblle knocking noise and asked for ideas. Instead of checking the simple things he bought a secondhand engine and changed it over, only to find that, post change, examination revealed the rotor arm was knocking against one of the segments in the 'strib cap.
Which part melted then? The tube, or the coil end? Was the plug tight?
I doubt the plug would generete that much heat, unless it was a bad seal between ceramic and steel, and it was leaking cylinder gasses. First thing would be to take the plug out and take a look. Replace it anyway.
This is exactly the same fault as mine. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/26119-blown-ignition-coil/ although I've not found the source of the short yet.
Update: My car's with an independent specialist and he's sure there is no short in the wiring and that the short is in the ECU (that's melting the coil on the ECU side). I've been quoted £1600+VAT for a new ECU. The garage has warned me to be very careful buying a used ECU off a breaker unless they'll guarantee to take it back if it can't be programmed for my car. The key thing, other than matching the ECU to my old one, is to know the chassis number of the donor car - this is a mandatory requirement.
Questions:
1) Does anyone know of a company that repairs ECUs?
2) Does anyone know of a reliable source of used ECUs that will take the unit back if it doesn't work on my car?
3) Is there any value in a broken ECU? (linked to the first question I suppose)?
The DME has to be programmed with the immobiliser key to match your alarm module. The only way to program a used DME is to know the Porsche IPAS security codes for the donor vehicle. So even if you have the VIN for the donor car, Porsche are unlikely to give the IPAS codes. They only usually do it if you can prove ownership of the vehicle.
You can buy a matched set of alarm unit, DME, and keys from exactly the same model, but bear in mind you will never be able to get an extra or replacement keyhead for it.
I don't know anyone who does repairs, I'm afraid.
Hi,
I thought I had an ecu issue a while back (diagnosis showed a cam sensor fault). I got the ecu bench tested and it was confirmed working fine. Worth a try for £60, they can also fix too.
I used bba reman for the testing.
Hope this helps
Jetbox
DME = Digital Motor Electronics (or the German equivalent) = ECU
I'm pretty sure that's what your picture shows, but Richard will no doubt confirm.
Jeff
It sounds as though a DME bench test would certainly be worth a try Doug. It may just be a faulty component (power transistor?) on that output - hopefully, relatively cheap and easy to rectify.
Good luck.
Jeff
I've spoken with BBA and they've not said the ECU is irreparable so it'll go off to them and I'll have everything crossed. It takes two to three weeks.
Not sure if it is any help, but they are available S/H for around £250 but I suspect Richard has highlighted coding issues - maybe an Indy could assist?
The saga continues. The ECU Doctor have not found anything wrong with my ECU. It's running 100% functional on their bench as I type.
I reckon I need an auto electrician now as I'm back to hunting for a wiring/earth issue. Anyone used one or has heard good things about one in the West Midlands?
It's finally fixed. I persevered with the garage who found the smallest of cuts to the insulation of one wire that was in intermittent contact with the chassis. Good work by them because it was like looking for the proverbial needle in a haystack and being intermittent made it very difficult. I also can't recommend The ECU Doctor highly enough - he was superb. So material wise it's cost me two coil packs and fifty-odd quid with the ECU Doctor. I've not got the labour costs yet. It could have been so much worse...
