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YOUR RESEARCHSubwoofers for under the seats
Reported or suspected cause
motors
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Reported cause
Problem is motors for height/tilt make it an irregular shape under there.
Leading evidence: 'motors' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'motors' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install head unit + amp' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I happened to "luck out" with my car, PO installed a new head unit + amp which made the upgrade easier for me.
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I'll have to get mine installed someday and check..
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The PO had a subwoofer installed under the passenger side footwell.
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He ended up replacing both door woofers cause one was blown with some inexpensive parts express ones he had.
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Suggestion
I don't know if they fit, but I'm using 2 of those underseat subwoofers with 12v power supplies in my basement (due to space restrictions on a hidden 5.1 system) and they perform extremely well for their size and cost.
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I've used Rockville 10" and Planet Audio 8" under-seat subs in the house (with a 12v power supply) to make the sub invisible they've been great to fill out bass in a large room.
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The PO had a subwoofer installed under the passenger side footwell. I was thick and made it tough for a tall person to get their legs in. Who make small subwoofers that can fit under 996 seats? BTW, the line I have coming from the amp is powered.
The Cerwin-Vega VPAS10 is under 3" tall.
I have that one in my cart planning to put it under the passenger seat myself. (more room under the passenger seat.
Dimensions are: 13.60" L x 9.60" W x 2.60" H
Seems like it would fit to me.
Let us know if this works out. If not I�m planning on somehow bolting it under the passenger dash (not the footwell).
Another thing I wondered about is shimming the passenger seat mounts, possibly also using longer bolts. I�ve not seen anyone try that.
I don't know if they fit, but I'm using 2 of those underseat subwoofers with 12v power supplies in my basement (due to space restrictions on a hidden 5.1 system) and they perform extremely well for their size and cost.
I'm sure you'll be happy with it if you can get it to fit. It's a much better option putting sub drivers in the doors (for those who have the Hi-Fi option).
I have a box that fits exactly behind the rear seats but is unpowered $150 to anyone
Fit like this I don’t have a pic in the car it’s a very snug fit and sounds great
I tried to put a Pioneer TS-WX1300S under the passenger seat. It's 11x8x2 3/4 inches tall. Problem is motors for height/tilt make it an irregular shape under there. Didn't fit.
Ran it in the console side of the passenger footwell for a while, then moved it behind the driver's seat, facing forward under the theoretical rear passenger's legs. Since the seats are out that isn't an issue.
Easy to pull out as needed and gives a little bump to the bass. Nothing like the big stuff I ran in my youth, but I find the engine and road noise override the music at highway speeds. Not that there's anything wrong with that
.
I went with velcro tape directly on the bottom of the sub and a couple velcro floor mat fasteners into the carpeting.
It's pretty secure, need to pry the velcro apart to get it out.
Is this still available? My account is too new to Rennlist to send you a PM apparently, but I would be very interested in this sub box if you still have it (assuming Kicker sub is included?)
Sorry for the old thread bump, but just noticed a new "round" powered underseat sub option on the market. It's 3.15" tall and I'm guessing around 11" in diameter (unbelievably, they don't say what the diameter is in the listing). I don't know if they fit under a 996 seat or not -- I'd guess not based upon the height -- but thought these might be of interest to someone given the far more compact round shape.
Amazon
Amazon
From your link
"Specifications:
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Dimensions (D x H): 9.68� x 3.15 Inches
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 180Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90dB
Sensitivity: 90dB @ 1w / 1m<
Input sensitivity: Low level: 200mV
Input sensitivity: High level: 0.5"
Thanks -- I see it now. They have the product description after a bunch of other product referrals so I missed it. I was searching for '"' to find inch specs, but after the 10th or so result I gave up. I should have seen it, but they should have it at the top also since size specs are the most important detail for underseat subs. Glad to see the diameter is even smaller than I guessed.
20Hz, that�s funny. But if it fits, that�s a sweet setup. I doubt it fits though. My seat is all the way down on the floor, and I�m 6�00.� Maybe if the seat is raised�
I would not want a sub anywhere near the immobilizer under the driver seat or the torque vector sensor under the console..
I've seen subs installed that screwed up the antilock brakes (Too close to the wires for the wheel sensors) Rare but when you mess up the sensors weird things happen.
Can buss is also sensitive to various EMF..
MY cab has the sub on the right side of the console in the passenger footwell. And its a Bose MOST..
Not sure how much room is in there for aftermarket sub though.. I quit putting $$ into automobile stereo years ago.
Good luck..
Any chance Pioneer TS-WX010A would fit underseat? The larger one mentioned in the thread (WX130DA) fit heightwise but the footprint was too large. Know this is not a great sub but if hidden will do the job I'm looking for. I may just do footwell if it doesn't fit underseat. Thanks
I am quite interested in this thread as my car only has the dash & rear speakers. Low end extension is severely lacking. I wonder how much clearance is improved with euro GT3 seats? I'll have to get mine installed someday and check..
The Bose system has door speakers in the front doors, Maybe you could find a used set of door cards that match your car in a yard and put a small sub in each one. ??
Should have more info in a couple of weeks on the TS-WX010A. Order in and installer lined up. If it won't fit under the seat plan to go as high up in the passenger footwell as possible. Really don't want it visible and not sure if would be in the way of a passenger.
Would be interesting to see if the wire is already there,, the door speakers seem to be tied to my dash speakers in my 03 cab.. When you fade it's the 2 small rear speakers in the side panels vs the two dash + two door + under console sub. I think the door speakers also came with one of the more standard systems.
My suspicion is the wires go directly from the dash speakers to the door speakers in series since they are very low ohm (< 4?)
Reverse engineering
The issue with under the seat is only passenger side has any room and since I have PSM I have a inertial sensor to the right
of the back of the parking break lever and they don't play nice with big magnets.. The C4 shares that bit with the GT3. Its a
different PSM than the coup gets. (At least according to my durametric data. )
Too bad such a nice car came with such a under developed sound system.
the "Most/Fiberoptic" was just a gimmick back in the early 2000 cars..
My solution was to wire the BOSE door 5.25" speakers and BOSE sub in series for approx 5 ohm. I just run the SUB level output from the aftermarket deck higher than the other speakers to compensate. Aftermarket drivers+tweeters in the dash handle the mid/high along with the rear stock drivers. 5 channel AMP driving everything. I am swapping in the PCCM+ soon so will kind of have to figure it all out again because the Pioneer deck allowed for RCA of High/Mid/Sub instead of the more traditional.
What about installing the subwoofer in the center console behind the HVAC controller, like in the Bose option setup. Low frequency bass audio is non-directional so location is not so important. /X3
Still haven't been able to install it. My guy has been too busy and now looking for another installer. Anyhow leaning by the passenger after seeing where the Bose sub is on the verts. The pioneer is much smaller than that.
I installed this tiny powered sub behind the pass seat in my cab. Investigated all the options, not paying $600+ for a custom enclosure when I only take a passenger every blue moon.
Was hoping it would fit under the passenger seat, not quite. Clearance is about 2 inches, nothing on the market will fit without cutting sheet metal or modifying the seat base. Kids can still fit with it behind the seat, if I really need to I can disconnect it in a couple minutes.
$100 plus $25 for an install kit to run it off the battery, took about an hour to install. Totally meets my needs, pass seat all the way back holds it right in place. I�ll clean up the wiring when I have a chance.
https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/ss65p/
Finally got the Pioneer TS-WX010A installed. My audio guy thought it wouldn�t add much but was pleasantly surprised. Right lower woofer was blown too so he swapped in some speakers he had on hand which are really inexpensive. Extremely pleased with the audio upgrade and look. He put it under the upper area in the passenger footwell. Door woofers without the sub sound insanely better for $50 for a pair. All in inexpensive worthwhile upgrade imo.
Here's what I did in my '99 C2. Dual Memphis 8" subs in an enclosure I designed in Solidworks. I also drew up replacement pucks for the angled seat bolt/stud. The bracket sandwhiches the stud and new puck to maintain the OEM stud standoff distance while giving the bracket a solid surface to mount. Keeps the box from sliding into me on hard braking or worse. I'll be using Caswell blackener to darken the SS brackets.
Sorry for the huge images, I thought the forum software would downsize them but I guess not.
I've used Rockville 10" and Planet Audio 8" under-seat subs in the house (with a 12v power supply) to make the sub invisible they've been great to fill out bass in a large room. I've not them in a car, but I think just about any good brand will make a massive difference in a car.
Thanks for posting. That Rockville 6.5" is a nice and small sub (
9.64" L x 7.08" W x 2.83" H)
-- wasn't aware of this model.
The Pioneer
TS-WX010A is even smaller 9"W x 2-3/4"H x 4-5/8"D (not sure if anybody has tried to fit this under a 996 seat, I think
@Raj Vaswani
used one where the Bose sub goes). It's kind of pricey in the US ($200+) for as small as it is, but it appears that it's cheaper from Japan in the Pioneer Carrazzeria brand for around $125 shipped (
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12666574641...3ABFBMvKfinrxk
)
Tang Band offers even a smaller option in a
passive
sub at 7.5" x 3.625" x 2.35" (
https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-B...42?quantity=50
). This is a 3" long excursion driver paired with a passive radiator that is supposed to have very good output for its size. These are so much smaller than all of the other powered underseat subs that it might fit under a 996 seat -- but somebody would have to try it. I suspect a pair of these would offer a good amount of bass if they fit (they do need an external amp though). Unfortunately, they are out of stock at Parts Express, and difficult to find elsewhere in the US.
The pioneer is on sale direct for $150. Compare specs to Tang Band - no comparison if the link below is the right model. Freq range and RMS wattage. My audio guy didn�t believe the Pioneer freq range but was thoroughly impressed.
He installed in footwell on passengers side. He didn�t think would work under seat and has worked on many 997/996 models. Barely noticeable. Think I posted pics. He ended up replacing both door woofers cause one was blown with some inexpensive parts express ones he had.
https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-B...RoCu_AQAvD_BwE
https://usa.pioneer/products/ts-wx010a
Good to see the Pioneer is on sale. Your Tang link is for the 2" sub model, rather than the larger 3" with passive radiator (
https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-B...42?quantity=50
). The 2" is in stock, the 3" isn't. I don't believe the Pioneer spec going down to 20 hz, but I do suspect it will perform better than a single Tang 3" module. If the Tangs fit under the seats (they're much smaller, but no idea if they fit), a pair of them would probably perform well and that might be an attractive option to someone wanting completely stealth audio (need to add an amp to drive Tangs of course).
@sublm8
how did you wire it? I've got the PCCM+ head unit, non Bose, non most system, 2001. It's the HiFi option. There's a small factory amp in the frunk. I upgraded the 4 speakers, dash and back seat, with the speakers you can get from CAI , I think they sound good. But even at high volumes the system is not loud enough, our cars make a lot of road noise. I don't think a sub will help with clarity, the answer is probably a louder amp. But for the price, if it's easy to wire why not try it out. Thanks for any advice.
I happened to "luck out" with my car, PO installed a new head unit + amp which made the upgrade easier for me.
He put in an Alpine HU and small Alpine 445A power pack amp in the factory frunk location. The wiring is weird - door and dash speakers are wired to the amp, but rear speakers are not. I dumped the Alpine HU for a carplay single din unit, but I kept the Alpine amp.
Because the aftermarket head unit has subwoofer outs, the SW install was relatively easy.
Volume is great and the system is adequate at 70% volume top down. On the highway it's loud enough that I'm sure I'm risking my hearing.
So I can advocate for the alpine 445 as a solution, though it does require cutting/crimping. The rockville sub is self-powered with a hard line to the battery, I keep sub power at 40% and never feel like I need more than that.
I'm sorry that I don't know how to wire a sub with the factory HU. I will say the Rockville sub has good built in filters, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how to send a signal to it without a dedicated sub out line.
I just ordered a Rockville 6.5 also, but I'm actually using it as a small sub for a racing sim rig. I don't have any specific info about using it with the Becker, but the sub has line-level inputs and speaker-level inputs and a crossover control ("low pass") control -- so you don't need a sub output from the Becker and should be able to feed it the line-level signal that's going to the amp in the frunk. If the Becker is connected with RCA connectors, you should be able to use RCA splitters to feed the sub's left/right RCA inputs.