Rebuilt 996.1 engine recommendation

It appears that I am faced with either rebuilding the engine in my 2001 996.1 or buying a rebuilt engine. Where should I be looking for a rebuilt engine? My mechanic prefers a less expensive option than LN Engineering and saving money is fine with me as long as I get a solidly rebuilt engine. What should I be considering and what questions should I be asking? This is an expensive undertaking and I want to get it as right as possible. Obviously, I will likely never get my money out of the car, but I�m resigned to that fate as I love the car. Thank you in advance.

Why would your mechanic prefer a less expensive option? It's your car. How much experience does he have with these cars? LN is probably the best if 'right as possible' is your highest intent, but you pretty much get what you pay for. Others will likely make some recommendations. You can get a new short block from Porsche, but you still have all the other things to deal with while the engine is out, so it still costs a lot of money and the short block still has the oem IMS. A solidly rebuilt engine will (or should by definition) include the cost for addressing all the M96 shortcomings. Then there are all the "while you are in there" expenses that you will want to address. Do you have a budget? What exactly went wrong with the engine? What are your plans for the car longer term?

This is a Porsche there is no cheap alternative your mechanic is probably not the best choice for this job LN Engineering is the “best” solution for a more powerful engine but a factory block replacement is definitely your best cheaper solution

Quotes source post: 19646992

All the advice above is good... But something critical to a m96 rebuild too think about. What happened to your engine..? Did it throw a rod, make a window in your block..? spin a bearing..? Loose an imsb..? Drop a valve seat..? Break a chain..? All above things, some that will possibly prevent most builders from accepting your old engine as a rebuild core. Or at the least skyrocketing rebuild cost. Without a good core your rebuild cost just skyrocketed. Might then want to explore different avenues for a n engine. For most reputable builders, builders that are not going to try and polish out a under spec crank and call it a day. For the good builders, a rebuild is only possible if your 'core' engine is in good rebuild-able shape. If crank has spun a bearing or suffered imsb debris scoring or other wise damaged, thats $6000 for a new crank... maybe $4000 for a reconditioned 1 if you can find one. If the block is damaged, or the crank carrier is damaged, rods are bent, all much more ca$h for rebuild. So bottom line, before making a decision on what to do, might want to see what exactly you got to rebuild first...? A Porsche short block might end up being the cheapest/best way out, but you're still at $25-30,000 all said and done if you're not a DIY'er. And thats if all your other bolt on parts are good, like the heads just needing a $4-5000 recondition at Len Hoffman. Or do a engine swap to a 2.7TT or LS and be done with it and all the associated m96 problems that really won't go away with anything but the most expensive,,, especially if not a DIY'er,,, now when all is said and done,, turn key@ $40-45 LN or Harteck/Slaker builds. A m96 engine is not an engine to cut corners on like a 350 Chevy hone re-ring, new bearings. seals, maybe splurge with a new oil pump and timing chain set , good to go for anther 50-75k miles. jmho

Agreed on the thread needing more information on the state of your engine now and why it needs a rebuild.

I’d like to stay under $30,000, but the high end is $35,000. At this point I plan to keep the car for years. While the engine is out I’d like to address everything I can within my $35,000 budget. I had already done the IMS Solution, clutch,etc., new Fabspeed exhaust, new radiators, air/oil separator, belts, and hoses. The block has a crack in it. Rods, crank shaft etc are fine. My mechanic has over 15 years working primarily on BMW’s but has years of experience with Porsches, including the 996. I don’t know exactly who she is looking to source an engine from yet as the conversation was yesterday and we are in the early stages. Thank you for the insight.

Thank you. Very good advice. Now I’m wondering if I should just sell the car As-Is and look for another Porsche.

Given the block is cracked, that might be a very good option. Thank you.

You are going to take a bath on the car if you sell it with a cracked block. Consider a factory short block. You exchange your short block for the new factory short block. Good news about this option is we now have 25 years of M96 knowledge on parts amd procedures. Should easily get you another 25 years for $18-25k using a Porsche Indy that specializes these engines. Key work "specializes".

Quotes source post: 19647519

Can you exchange an engine with a cracked block? Yes, the cheapest solution would be a factory short block. The problem with throwing in the towel is what would you buy?

$30K is a healthy budget. If the block is cracked in the cylinder walls, LN Engineering can do their magic on that block for $6K and you get a new block with nikkies, pistons and rings. The rest is 50 hours of labor and $5K of parts. Although, you absolutely need someone who has rebuilt a 996 engine before, not just familiar with the car.

Would you mind sharing the shop your using in NC ?

When you say cracked block, do you mean d-chunk? What are the symptoms that led you to the discovery of the broken engine? The reason I ask is to possibly determine if the damage truly is limited to the shortblock. If so, your $30K - $35K budget should get you a pretty solid, reliable result via a new shortblock from Porsche plus some "while you're in there" stuff. If pieces grenaded and went throughout the engine on the other hand, you might be better off going with a full rebuild. Said rebuild to include the word "Nickies" IMO.

This 996 block has two cracks both in the cylinder walls. It was successfully repaired by LNE with nikkies. The whole job should cost less than $30K

Quotes source post: 19647561

That sounds great! I like the idea of LN Engineering and Nikkies. Apparently I have some minor bore scoring, too so that solves that problem. Thank you.

Coolant was getting into the oil. They looked at everything where coolant could get into oil and cylinder heads checked out w no cracks so they looked at the block. I believe the crack is in a cylinder, but I need to check on that. Based on these comments, it sounds like replacing the block could do the trick.

Quotes source post: 19647710

Coolant was getting into the oil. They looked at everything where coolant could get into oil and cylinder heads checked out w no cracks so they looked at the block. I believe the crack is in a cylinder, but I need to check on that. Based on these comments, it sounds like replacing the block could do the trick.

Quotes source post: 19647552

Yep. The owner already owns it. It's a desirable car that has aged well. Not certain what could replace it even with the sunk cost of the purchase price and the cost of a factory short block or even a more expensive rebuild. The 996 is alot of car for a cheap price. Including a short block or rebuild.

Quotes source post: 19647839

Yes, the car is hard to replace and as tempting as the other lawn might look, you are probably will find unsuspecting gremlins lurking inside there, too. At least a rebuild resets the clock for a lot of potential failures. Not quite a new car, but the major repairs are done.

Everyone’s input has been very helpful. It seems that a LN Engineering block with Nickes is the way to go. I agree that given the sunk (really deep I might add!) cost, having a car that I know beats buying another used Porsche that could have all sorts of gremlins lurking. Thank you for the comments and good advice. I’ll update the thread after all is said and done.

The shop I’m using. Recommended by PCA in NC https://www.autologicgso.com

First, flip flops not recommended in places where large pieces of metal exist. Second, did they confirm the location of the cracks? Third, LN Engineering means you will not see your car again for 4-6 months (at the very best).

Quotes source post: 19648737

Normal lead time if 6-8 weeks, however if we get a block back after plating and it does not pass our quality control checks, we will have to send it back out to be stripped and re-plated, which can add some time. There is also some seasonal variability as the platers do get backed up in the winter, but usually this is not the case, but the exception. We have one Haas set up to machine blocks all the time and have sleeves ready to go, so blocks are machined and ready for plating typically within days of arriving at our facility.

Quotes source post: 19650398

Well, I did two engines last year and each time it was 12 weeks from date of receipt to get my block back from LNE. Add 1-2 weeks for ground shipping, and 4-6 weeks to assemble the engine, and 2 weeks to put the engine in the car. Now we are at 20 to 22 weeks. That is 5 months. Then the mechanic goes on vacation, he forgot to order a few other gaskets/nuts/bolts/plates ... and then we are at 6 months.

I would give Brandon from Slakker a call. I worked with him on my 4.1L build and it was a very positive experience. I don't know what their queue looks like now but when my turn came up I shipped the car on March 14th and flew out to collect and drive back home on May 10th. This will obviously differ based on their queue and what kind of build you're doing but should give you an idea. After pick up I completed an 1800 mile road trip back home with zero issue and a dumb grin on my face I'll add that the matching piston and new Nikasil cylinders from Capricorn are installed in the block which cuts down on a lot of the typical lead time where things need to be shipped back and forth. Bonus for me was that not every day do you get to meet the guy who built your engine!