Do your engine mounts need replacing ?

As per the images below .. if thick black oil is leaking out or over the engine mount then its split and needs replacing . This can happen when they are removed such as in an engine drop . Normally though .. look at the exhaust tail pipes .. if they are sitting low then its probably because the mounts have dropped .. very rare for people to adjust the tail pipes to make them sit low ! As per the image .. the distance between the two arrows is what you are looking for .. as new then its about 1cm clearance .. fully worn and the rubber touches the base metal . You can just about look up at these to judge the gap but in reality if they are original then the car will probably benefit from a replacement set . The engine on a worn mount is going to be like a pendulum .. far more movement .. i can't say what it feels like driving as much as owners but i would just say .... loose !

Great Information 👍

I read a centre gravity report a few years ago where Chris has a defined test for what he'd class as needing replacing. Something of the lines of rocking the engine up and down with the exhaust manifolds and seeing how much they move. Over **mm would suggest replacement needed. Probably still on their website.

A timely subject as mine are being replaced on Monday by my Indy, as with the car on 85k it seems like a good time. As Demort says tips hanging alittle low and a decent amount of 'movement' when you rev the engine. I've gone with OEM albeit on the expensive side as prefer to keep stock. Will be interested to see how it drives; pick up delayed by sourcing P parts in the pandemic, so car will have been with them for nearly 3 weeks in all for various bits. Also hoping it may have an impact on a low speed knocking noise over bumps at rear but may be top/mounts/bearings potentially. Nevertheless doing the engine mounts seems like a good idea anyway :thumb:

I did mine last week - it's actually one of the easier jobs to do - only took me about an hour including cleaning up and applying heat to the inevitable seized nut. My mounts appeared to be original - the offside one had clearly leaked out some time ago and the nearside leaked it's guts out the moment the jack took the weight of the engine - that stuff stinks! I replaced the mounts with the 993 RS kit from Type 911 - considerably cheaper than standard and I can't hear/feel any additional NVH, but possibly that's a reult of the old ones being ready for the bin.

Same as above changed mine recently for the Type 911 ones. Mine didn't show any outward sign of being worn but at 96K figured they needed doing the change since however is massive the car just shoots forward when you accelerate unlike the big pause beforehand.

I'm not quite of the build to hump an engine up and down i,m afraid .. Hence i look at them a different way .. which to be honest as most of you guys don't have ramps then it might help .. visual look at the mounts and as per the image .. have they dropped .. Tail pipes sitting low is the most obvious .. I will say .. sometimes if you replace them then you will have to alter the tail pipes .. new clamps WILL be needed . @ Moko .. excellent .. shows what new mounts do . Last point to note .. always .. always make sure the square part of the thread enters the engine carrier bar Before tightening them up .. if not then not only is it dangerous it will also probably damage the new mounts .

Good post :thumbs:

Done over Christmas with OEM..

Just picked up my car after 3 weeks with the specialist! New mounts (OEM) fitted so will see how she drives once the weather picks up as shocking currently. The old adage of ~1.5K for maintenance a year rung true, not major fettling for for the last 2.5+ years with covid and other delays and a tasty bill for 3.7K Only thing now to try and identify is a slight knocking at low speeds from the rear of the car over really bad surfaces, Indy was chasing the source but is alittle stumped. Shocks/springs look ok but perhaps top mounts/bearings? Cheers.

Often how it goes mate not much cost for a while then you have to throw a lump at it :thumb: But your right ,I always say 2k pa ave and its somewhere between your 1.5 and my 2 as an ave with these cars. :thumb:

Most common in order .. Diagonal arms .. Link rods .. Brace bars diagonal not fully tightened . After that its out with the chassis ear .. connect it to various parts of the suspension and road test .. you listen to each sensor via headphones to track down which one is closest to the noise .. You often have to do this several times for a difficult to find noise .

Thanks Demort, much appreciated :thumb: Noise not really that noticeable so will drive the car for a while and then possibly revisit, once the pain of this bill has subsided slightly :grin: Taking car out today then it def felt alittle tighter with the new engine mounts so well worth doing at 85k miles. Just need a good couple of days weather now for a full detail and machine polishing for the spring!

I'm afraid i often see the bills expand when looking at cars .. i'm also the one responsible for making them large Always best to have a garage you know .. that way it's easy to listen to what they advise and what they say can be left , trust for want of a better word .. not everything listed needs doing straight away . New engine mounts should make any car feel better .. perhaps tighter but as mentioned .. i don't feel it as i have very short road tests so don't really feel the benefits .

I'd love to try that bit of kit out to hunt down a noise! I was trying to hold my stethoscope on the rear control arm and other components whilst jacking the suspension and lowering to try and identify a creak a few weeks ago. I kinda ran out of hands 😆